Electron Cross-kart

[Functional Artist]

OK so, a 2-link set-up would cause the wheel to "tilt" during suspension travel

Whereas a 4-link set-up, would help keep the wheel more even with the road

...but, that's a lot of (kinda expensive) parts

Re-calculating
...re-calculating

It looks like Ima gonna, have ta make more A-frames
...but, maybe re-designed ta be a bit more cost-effective
...maybe using DIY bushings

 

[Functional Artist]

Been makin' some "new" A-frames

* I made (5) of em'
...just in case I (1) up
or
If all goes well
...I'll have a spare

I set up a welding "jig"
...so, they all got welded up, the same

* I welded the (2) "bushing holders" on as (1) long piece
...to ensure "near perfect" alignment

Then, set up a cuttin' "jig"
...to cut them "off", all the same

** I could have left the "bushing holders" as just (1) full length (8 1/2") piece
...but, then the A-frames would only be attached, to the frame, with (2) tabs
...(1) on the front side of the A-frame & (1) in the rear

But, by using (2) separate (2") bushing holders (on each A-frame)
...they are then, connected by (4) tabs, "doubling up" the attachment points (& strength)

 

[Functional Artist]

Next, I installed the "ball joints"
...then, welded the "nuts" on good

They should be "good-n-strong"
...adjustable
...& changeable

 

[Functional Artist]

Cleaned the A-frames up & painted 'em (Satin Black)
...they should be about done so, I figured I'd seal 'em up




To make the "bushings", I cut (8) 2 1/8" long pieces of 1/2" ID rubber fuel line
...& (8) 2 1/8" long pieces of 3/8 ID steel tube (painted Satin Black along with the A-frames)

* The bushing holders are ~2"
...so, by making the bushings ~2 1/8" long, it should give us a little bit of clearance

After the paint was dry, I just "slid" 'em together

...assembled (notice the ~1/6" of the bushing protruding?)

...& the complete unit (with tabs) ready for mounting

 

[Functional Artist]

Hey you'all how far apart should the A-frames be positioned?
...about the same, width or distance, as the spindle?


Also, should they be "in-line" with the frame? (when un-loaded)

It seems like I would get the most suspension "travel" if (when un-loaded) the A-frames were angled downward a bit?
...then, when the driver is in it, they would be closer to "level" (like in the upper pic)
...with ~1/2 of the "travel" range still available


Also, here is a video of progress so far

 

[WillMatrix]

Hey you'all how far apart should the A-frames be positioned?
...about the same, width or distance, as the spindle?
View attachment 133984

Also, should they be "in-line" with the frame? (when un-loaded)

It seems like I would get the most suspension "travel" if (when un-loaded) the A-frames were angled downward a bit?
...then, when the driver is in it, they would be closer to "level" (like in the upper pic)
...with ~1/2 of the "travel" range still available

View attachment 133985
Also, here is a video of progress so far

You are always pushing the envelope!!! Great job.

 

[Denny]

Ideally the control arms should be longer on the bottom shorter on the top. The same distance apart as the height of the spindle. But it looks good so far.

 

[Pinhead]

That type of suspension you are using is vulnerable to large levels of bump steer under rough conditions.

Maybe/kinda/sorta.

If the inboard pivot point of the tie-rod is on the same plane and in-line with the pivot point of the A-arm, you won't have any bump-steer.

 

[Functional Artist]

I've been on a battery adventure (learnin' stuff)

But, I've made a little progress on the Electron kart though

So, before installing the A-frame mounting "tabs" I did some "triangulating" of the frame (triangles make 'er "tougher")
...& added a bar, for attaching the upper A-frame to

Another angle

Seems like it's only gonna have ~2" of "travel"

Q: Is this about normal for a set up like this?

 

[Denny]

With those short arms it is.