Electric start conversion for Honda gx160 and gx200?

[Scout]

This popped up in my Facebook just now, and I'm wondering how well it would work?

#Aliexpress US $76.37 5%OFF | Electric Starter Flywheel Switch Charging Coil Motor Kit For HONDA GX160 GX200 Chinese 168F 5.5HP 4-Stroke Gas Engine Generator
https://a.aliexpress.com/_d6qT0kW

It's on AliExpress, and shipping is almost as much as the conversion, $63.27

 

[mckutzy]

I've seen those ads before.. I've wondered about them...
Issues I see off hand, is what shaft taper do they use for it to mate to.. and now... How much longer will it be over the covid-19 delays..

 

[firemanjim]

You can get an electric start kit on eBay and Amazon...... About $100 total plus shipping. New flywheel and starter motor , ect.... And then you either have to buy a new cover or find a kit that includes new engine cover....

 

[bob58o]

Ya they are on eBay for $75-$83 shipped from the US.
Will work fine on a Honda gx160 or gx200. Will work fine on most Chinese clone engines. Will work on a non-Hemi Predator if you lap the flywheel to the crank. Actually not sure if the fan shroud from a non-Hemi matches with Honda. I know the Honda fan shroud fits a Hemi for sure, however the flywheel will not work on a Hemi Predator without having the taper machined. You need the Kohler flywheel for a Hemi.

If you don’t care about looks, you could always just cut the fan shroud on your engine to make space for the starter motor.

And remember unless you buy a True Honda flywheel, it’s still the cheapest cast flywheel possible.

 

[Lasakro]

I just found this thread after ordering a starter kit from V Power Equipment for my non-tapered P212 and like to add some information since the "Predator Lighting Coil" thread is closed.

These kits are coming though with a charge (single) 3 amp coil with the intent for only charging and half wave rectification done in the key switch from what I read on that other thread. Must be a regulator in there also. My plans call for using my 2 year old 24V/50W dual lighting coil and replacing my MB200 flywheel with the one form the kit, also 3 magnet. I'll be replacing the keyswitch panel from the kit with a single panel mounted push button for the starter.

With the double, or 24V, coil and current the same the output power would be expected to be higher also and a 16A external rectifier/regulator the system current would be greater but to what degree i'm unsure. I'm only running ~20W in LED's so I think it will charge ok. If I smoke that rect/reg I'll try the Kohler replacement.

@Bob- Feel free to correct since you there to really help me out 2 years ago, thanks again.

 

[bob58o]

@Bob- Feel free to correct since you there to really help me out 2 years ago, thanks again.

Nothing to correct, could you possibly show a diagram as to how you are wiring everything... the starter, the coils, regulator, battery, and lights? It might be helpful for others down the line. I never added the regulator- I was just planning on using the diode for half wave rectification. Engine is still just sitting around. My coils only had one wire and I wasn't sure how to wire that to a regulator. A coil with 2 output wires (AC) would be straight forward to connect to a 4 (or 3) wire rectifier / regulator. I'm assuming the two wires from your coils go to the two yellow wires on the rectifier. The red wire from the rectifier goes to the + on the battery.

Perhaps you can finish the thread I started. My thread put the mechanical parts together. Maybe you can get more detailed about the circuitry? Anyway, I'd love to see it in action.

 

[Lasakro]

Sure, I extrapolate well and actually started a wiring diagram in LibreOffice Draw so nothing to fancy. It might up soon. Hole-lotta-pieces everywhere.


UPDATE:

Here it is. Call it my plan as it's still untested under full load. No problems so far with the few speed runs I've taken. My USB charger with voltmeter, charger for my Android speedometer, gets installed tomorrow. The 3 amp fuse gets installed when I'm done sending this. I'll be able to monitor the charge voltage to determine if the regulator dies, I'm doubting this, or if the 3 amp fuse opens, more likely. I'd feel comfortable taking that to 5 but I rather not burn that coil.

Update 2:
I'll just measure that Lighting Coil current tomorrow.

Update 3: My current wiring diagram below. Started new thread to document the electronics.

 

[Lasakro]

I Think I hijacked this thread long enough. Sorry guys.

I started a new thread to document the electronics.

 

[Lasakro]

Just a comment on "these kits". The one I got from V Power Equipment with the black shroud for Predator came with only a 1/2 amp charging coil. Today I measured the magnet wire ID at 0.5mm which is 24 AWG good for 0.577 amps.

 

[bob58o]

I think the one I got was 12V/50W, so it should be around 4 amps.

 

[Lasakro]

I think the one I got was 12V/50W, so it should be around 4 amps.

Yes but wasn't that back in the day like 3 years ago? That was just a note for what these kits are pumping out these days. I'm getting great results using your wanna-be a Kohler regulator, see here.

 

[bob58o]

It was a while ago, and those kits were very available then as well. I bought a custom kit used.
The person I got it from had purchased the kohler flywheel separately, but sold the kit never installing it.

The only thing from the original kit I used was the starter motor and the keyswitch box. Flywheel was not part of the kit. Coils were not part of the kit. Fan shroud / blower housing was not part of the kit I purchased. The kit I got came with the same single coil, but I never even tried it out. It is still sitting around my apartment somewhere.

For testing, I only measured voltage across a battery when my system was running. This is just using a diode for half-wave rectification.

With no accessories "ON", I was getting over 15.5V at at 1350 RPM and at 3050 RPM I was getting 16.55V. With a 1amp fuel pump "ON" I was getting around 14V at 2350 RPM and around 16.4V at 4070RPM.

If I remember correctly, when adding the headlight I was going to use - the voltage stayed withing a reasonable charging range up to around 5k or 5.5k rpm.

Instead of using a regulator, I was just going to add more amperage draw to make sure my charging system did not fry my battery. Then I was planning to tune my Torque Converter to so that it shifted at an RPM appropriate for my gear ratio and charging needs.