Electric Scooter Project of sorts...

[frostyflammable]

A coworker was about to throw this away since he was not able to make it work. I decided for the price of free I would see if I can make something of it.

I have never messed with an electric project before so this one is new to me, and I mean I'm a complete newb on this!

This is what I know. It has four brand new 12v batteries and when I tested them they are working. Also if he jumped the battery to the motor it will turn and sounds good (from what I was told). The coworker thought the throttle grip and/or the regulator was bad so he bought new ones, China special of course. The new regulator is 1000W while the old one was 500W I hope that is OK.

What stands out is that the new throttle grip has four wires and the new regulator only has three. I have the instruction sheet that came with it so I can try and fudge my way though it. Just wanted to create this thread so that I can ask questions in one place when I start this. For the life of me cannot find a data sticker on this thing so I don't know what it is but hopefully pics will help.

--Daniel

 

[Functional Artist]

Kool! can't beat free
…& has new stuff (with directions) too

According to the speed controller connection sheet, the manditory connections are:
1) Key - connect to an on/off switch
3) Charge port - connect to your charge port (to connect the battery charger)
4) Throttle - connect to your throttle 8) Battery - connect to your battery pack (red (+)/black (-)
9) Motor Blue/Yellow - connect to the motor

* If the stock throttle (not the new (4) wire one) is a (3) wire unit maybe try that first
...red to red/ black to black/ other to other

** Please post some pics of the new (4) wire throttle

 

[frostyflammable]

Sadly the old throttle is no longer, it has been thrown away so all I have is this new one.
Couple of pics of the throttle.

--Daniel

 

[Functional Artist]

OK, that throttle has a voltage indicator

The (extra) yellow wire is probably for the 48V input signal for that indicator

To be sure,
I would just connect the (3) wires for throttle
red to red
black to black
green to (other color on speed controller connection plug)

DO NOT connect 48V (pack voltage) to the red wire
...it powers the throttle & can only handle up to 5V (reduced down/supplied by the speed controller)

* Then, when the throttle is connected (properly)
...connect the yellow wire to the battery positive (+)
…& it should show the voltage of the battery pack

Hope it helps

 

[frostyflammable]

So I have a suspicion that the throttle is bad, I used my multimeter, and while connected to the controller I can see 5V on the red wire using the black as ground, when I twist the throttle the green wire does not show any voltage whatsoever. I took the throttle off and checked for resistance across red/green and black/green and there is no change all my multimeter showed is no pass through.

When I had everything connected I could hear the controller power up but nothing when twisting the throttle.

Can I just get any twist throttle that is 3 wire 5V or do I have to be more specific?

Thanks.

 

[Functional Artist]

Yup, most of these "hall effect" throttles, for these little motors, are compatible/interchangeable

Here is some info on various throttles (starting @ post #83)
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=40239&page=5

Some are just throttles
...some have meters
…& some have various switches (key switch on/off, horn, lights etc.)

 

[frostyflammable]

Thank you very much, now that I have had a chance to play with this setup (and hoping the new throttle I ordered will solve the issue) I kind of like this electric thing.

I went with this throttle for two main reasons... its Amazon Prime and I get it tomorrow and also has a power indicator and not the digital voltage display. The key I am not so much interested in but since it has it I will hook it up to the "key switch" wires on the controller.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074DFV3ZJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think for log term storage I will add a high amp switch somewhere as a kill switch that will break the connection from the battery to controller, not sure if this is really needed or not but will make me feel good that there is a switch I can flip to kill all power.

--Daniel

 

[Functional Artist]

Your very welcome

Yup, these electric vehicles are bad azz

If you haven't ridden an electric before
...you should be impressed with the power & instant torque

I have been incorporating a circuit breaker in most of my projects
...to use as a "resettable fuse", to protect the system
…& as a "main cut off" switch, for storage

On my older karts, I just "pull the fuse"

 

[frostyflammable]

Wohoo, the throttle fixed it and the wheel turns. Just need a new front inner tube now and a circuit breaker and it should work.

I just wanted to confirm my math, since this is 1000W @ 48 volts, that is about 21 amps, and taking into account 65% efficiency that gives me an amperage rating of 32 amps that the circuit breaker needs to be. I right now have an inline 30amp automotive fuse for just in case but want a circuit breaker I can reset if needed without taking the scooter apart.

I am thinking something like this, its 30amps and it will fit in a hole that is next to the charger port. I wish I could go up to 40 or so amps just to be safe but cannot find anything that mounts using the screw in method.
https://www.amazon.com/RKURCK-125-2...prefix=push+to+reset+ci,automotive,207&sr=1-7

Or should I just get get something like this rated at 50 amps? https://www.amazon.com/Marine-Circu...x=push+to+reset+ci,automotive,207&sr=1-8&th=1

Thanks.

 

[Functional Artist]

Kool!

The spec sheet that I have for my 48V system recommends using a 40A fuse

So, 40A or even 50A circuit breaker should be fine

I don't have any knowledge about the first type of CB
...but, I have used the second type (50A) on many karts (they work fantastic)

 

[frostyflammable]

Now that I had some time to ride this, man its fun, its not very fast but has not problem hauling my big caboose around. The instant torque is quite satisfying.

Next problem I discovered is the charger, I went to plug it in and while the red light on the charger does come on there is no voltage coming from the charger on the plug. I even took it apart and tested voltage at the circuit board and the output is sitting at 0.00v no matter what. So I think I need a new charger now.

This charger has the same plug as mine and shows charger output at 54.6v so I am hoping this one will fix the that problem.

https://www.amazon.com/tangspower-E...+charger&qid=1565548785&s=gateway&sr=8-4&th=1

I am going to order this charger today and see if it fixed the charging problem.

Thanks.

 

[Functional Artist]

From one of your first pics, it looks like you have (SLA's) Lead batteries
...but, the charger you "linked" is for Lithium batteries.

IMO you want something like this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Winsgmoto-...438009?hash=item23c267cd39:g:cB0AAOSw52NdQGOe

"48V 2.5A XLR Sealed Lead Acid Battery Fast Charger For E-bike, Electric Scooters, Tricycles, Wheelchairs.

Specifications:
Input Voltage : 110V
Input interface: AC interface fit for America and Canada
Output Voltage: 55.5V (fit for 48v battery)
Output Current : 2.5A
Output interface: XLR interface"

* Also double check the specs before you buy, because there are a lot of "Chinese" chargers available with 220V input plugs (like for clothes dryers & big welders)
...but, the 120V style, just plugs into any household wall socket

 

[frostyflammable]

Thank you very much, totally forgot to look for lithium vs lead acid batteries. Yeah the ones in the scooter are lead acid for sure... That charger looks to have the wrong tip however I can just swap it over from the old non working charger so no worries there. I will get that one ordered, I am ready to have some more fun on the scooter already LOL.

I have so much to learn about this stuff

Daniel.