Electric motors

[i-Jess]

Hi I'm a go kart newbie looking for some electric fun
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24v-elect...d=100011&prg=9725&rk=1&rkt=10&sd=141272615574

I'm thinking of buying this motor, my dad got hold of an old Curtis controller and I have a go kart rolling chassis, would this motor be ok for an electric go kart?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalky

 

[Ahmed_bilal]

Hi, i think that wont be good as 3000/ 24 =125 amps, you will have a lot of power but very low run time. Unless you spent a few hundred on batteries with really big ah rating


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[itsid]

As Ahmed already said.. it'll draw lots of currents..
other than that it'll be great fun (for a short amount of time because of the quick draining batteries )

Should be fairly easy to remove the pump and mount a sprocket.

So if you have a matching controller, and you don't mind having to recharge every 20mins or so...
go for it

'sid

 

[i-Jess]

Ok thanks guys


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[i-Jess]

Hi guys I have been trying to wire up everything for a few days now with no luck, I wired everything up including contractors but now I took away the contractors and wired up the batteries controller motor and pot box and fuse only. Can you please tell me what I'm doing wrong? Thanks I know I should have the motor secured in place but ill do so when I wire things properly.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[itsid]

well, I guess
you checked the internal resistance of the A and S coils with your multimeter already to make sure the coils are at least allowing a current to flow
and you referred to the manual of your curtis controller when wiring this up..
although the A2 tab of the controller being unused seems very odd for me.

So B+ and B- is fairly obvious (battery positive and negative)
B+ also connected to A1 (as far as I can see that's correct)
M- conncted to S2 (I can't see but I guess you made that one as well)
but I'm missing the M+(A2 on some controllers) to A2 connection.

So if you haven't referred to the controllers manual to wire this up,
then install the A2->A2 connection.

other than that, maybe A1 and A2 are the other way around on your motor?! *shrugs*

'sid

PS oh it's contactor (it makes CONTACT, it doesn't sign a contract )

 

[i-Jess]

Thank you, And sorry that's autocorrect. I am 100% sure the terminals are what they are on the motor as I found the indications under the thick blue paint. The manual says that a2 must be connected to either s1 or s2 for current to flow and that a2 from motor can be connected to controller In order to activate plug breaking, I have wired it now again but with a2 to a2 and still nothing. I measured resistance across motor and the motor seems fine.
How likely is it that this controller is faulty?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[ML-TOYS]

Ok so i am probably wrong but that diagram shows 4 batteries at 48v, i see you have 3 batteries hooked up.
So if that controller requires 48 then you dont have enough power.

 

[i-Jess]

The separate battery is there to power the contactor controller works on 24-36 volts


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[i-Jess]

Just incase anyone ever gets stuck like I did with their Curtis controller it turns out that the pot box must be off before supplying power to the controller and at full resistance when turned on (by plugging and unplugging or using a switch on one of the pot box wires)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Krash]

Glad you worked it out. I'm building a kart with 2000w motors and am using Headway lithium cells which you can get for $20 to $30 each here (depending on size) and are ideal for this size motor. You would need 8 to 12 of them for 24 to 36 volts.

 

[itsid]

Oh... yeah nice 12 headway cells to make one 10Ah batpack costs only 240 US..
great.. a shame that you'd need roughly six times as much for some proper cruising time...
1440 US...
but still a good price ... if you're about to power an electric bike or a toy car

'sid