Ahmed_bilal
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Would this work well? http://kellycontroller.com/simplified-5v-throttle-pedal-p-1028.html
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Electric go kart help :)
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I am sure that would work fine. Wait for Itsid though, he would know more than me
So yes, that'll work well.
the curtis allows nearly every possible set up.
the hall effect pedal will work.
Do yourself a favour and find the manual for the controller
http://curtisinstruments.com/
and read it carefully.
It's not that I don't want to answer your questions,
it's just Curtis knows more about their controllers than I ever could
'sid
the curtis allows nearly every possible set up.
the hall effect pedal will work.
Do yourself a favour and find the manual for the controller
http://curtisinstruments.com/
and read it carefully.
It's not that I don't want to answer your questions,
it's just Curtis knows more about their controllers than I ever could
'sid
Ahmed_bilal
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Ok thanks that'll help a lot more than the old wiring diagram i got with it.
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Ahmed_bilal
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Im using two motors, is this a a good or bad method? Would it be more efficient if the two motors were powering individual sprockets attached to the axel?
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The 2 engines will have to be moving at the same RPM for everything to work well, otherwise the slower engine will always be taking strain
Ahmed_bilal
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Im using the same motors in parallel so they will produce same rpm. But is it better the way shown in picture or to have the motors powering different sprockets connected to the axel by individual chains?
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that's correct. and the faster one will be the one doing all the work
Yes, likely.. but not to be taken as a fact.
even electric motors that are the same make and model tend do have differences.
a discrepancy in the quality of copper wire is enough to change your rpms.
Running them in parallel is not a guarantee to have the same rpms!
You want to have two motors of the very same batch
(best consecutive serial numbers)
to make sure they're as much identical as humanly possible.
PLUS you want to make sure that the wire of the motors is the very same length for both to the controller.
That way your chances are good for similar rpms.
2rpms difference would be enough to loose the power of the slower turning motor almost completely
(the best way is to have two motors and two controllers and a hall control loop to read the rpms and adjust...
that's expensive, and quite a task to program.. also it's completely overkill in a kart... so
parallel mounted motors with above precautions is good.
Now for your question:
Two sprockets two chains.
to have the best possible powertransfer.
Your setup reduces the contact between motor sprockets and chain, that's not good, no.
it'll work for a while, but the sprockets will wear faster than with a conventional setup,
the chain rollers will wear faster and it's much more likely to slip.
So.. two sprockets and chains is how I'd suggest to set it up.
'sid
Ahmed_bilal
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Ok great, thanks
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dcastillo
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For my own sake of trying to understand the physics of this
the motors in parallel mean the same voltage (which corresponds to rpm) and varying current (dependent on the load seen by the motor.
The issue is the same volt on each motor may not be the exact same rpm causing all the load to one of the motors...
Question: If you wired the motors in series you would get the same current (power?) to each, but the voltage would be able to shift slightly to whichever motor needs more to match the rpms of the other motor...
Correct?
Or am I missing something?
-Danny
the motors in parallel mean the same voltage (which corresponds to rpm) and varying current (dependent on the load seen by the motor.
The issue is the same volt on each motor may not be the exact same rpm causing all the load to one of the motors...
Question: If you wired the motors in series you would get the same current (power?) to each, but the voltage would be able to shift slightly to whichever motor needs more to match the rpms of the other motor...
Correct?
Or am I missing something?
-Danny
unfortunately it's more difficult than that
Okay, let's set things straight:
2 parallel mounted motors on ONE fixed axle.
If the overall resistance (POS-lead -motor- NEG-lead) for each motor is identical,
then they both will be powered with the same Voltage.
The current is limited by the controller
(well in fact it's not but it's pulsed to throttle it down.. nevermind... limited!)
and each motor can draw a different amount of what the controller provides, based on it's load.
The motor that takes up more load will use up more current;
the other one though can rev up faster, up to the point where it has the exact same rpm..
at that point the two motors will try to level each other out to almost 50:50 and the same exact rpm.
Motor rpms are _NOT_ a question of voltage, but of Wattage (Volt * Ampere = Watt)
So while at first one tries to do all the work (because it can rev up more easily for whatever reason) the other one can rev up more easily (since it's under less load, thus is converting more energy into rotation instead of heat than the other)
And finally both run at about the same load (manufacturing discrepancies) at the exact same rpm (because of the axle/chain restriction )
So to spread the currents as evenly as possible you want similar motors; as similar as possible.
otherwise one might turn out to get much hotter than the other one
(hotter meaning more energy is provided and converted into heat, not rotation)
So now for the motors in series.
That's a very nasty thing to say the least.
Since each motor , wire, THING in the universe...
is also a resistor it get's very strange very fast.
each motor is a resistor to the other one,
so while both only can make use of about half of the voltage applied to the system (the bigger the difference is in the motors, the bigger the difference in the voltage will be)
there's another factor to keep in mind
R = U/I (resitance is voltage divided by current)
which basically means the following:
if you send a known voltage through a known resistance all you can measure is a current;
and vice versa.
Put 24V into a 0.667Ohm system and you'll measure 16 Amps
Allow 16 Amps through a 0.65 Ohm Resistor and you'll measure 24.64 Volts
So if the internal resistance of a motor is different from the other motor and
since changing the load will change the internal resistance and the rpm
it's nearly impossible for the motors to level each other out.
Since everytime one motor takes up more load it's going to increase it's internal resistance due to the heat drawing even more currents, allowing less Voltage to reach the other one and finally it'll pull all the load and the other one just revs freely.
They still have the same rpm, but at a very different Powerconsumption.
You can't do anything against it, since adjusting one lead (to compensate the difference in resistance) it's always a resistor to BOTH motors!
And even if by chance both internal resistances are perfectly the same...
one ungreased roller in one of the chain is enough to allow one to ever so slightly draw more power.. and the problem begins.
'sid
Okay, let's set things straight:
2 parallel mounted motors on ONE fixed axle.
If the overall resistance (POS-lead -motor- NEG-lead) for each motor is identical,
then they both will be powered with the same Voltage.
The current is limited by the controller
(well in fact it's not but it's pulsed to throttle it down.. nevermind... limited!
)and each motor can draw a different amount of what the controller provides, based on it's load.
The motor that takes up more load will use up more current;
the other one though can rev up faster, up to the point where it has the exact same rpm..
at that point the two motors will try to level each other out to almost 50:50 and the same exact rpm.
Motor rpms are _NOT_ a question of voltage, but of Wattage (Volt * Ampere = Watt)
So while at first one tries to do all the work (because it can rev up more easily for whatever reason) the other one can rev up more easily (since it's under less load, thus is converting more energy into rotation instead of heat than the other)
And finally both run at about the same load (manufacturing discrepancies) at the exact same rpm (because of the axle/chain restriction )
So to spread the currents as evenly as possible you want similar motors; as similar as possible.
otherwise one might turn out to get much hotter than the other one
(hotter meaning more energy is provided and converted into heat, not rotation)
So now for the motors in series.
That's a very nasty thing to say the least.
Since each motor , wire, THING in the universe...
is also a resistor it get's very strange very fast.
each motor is a resistor to the other one,
so while both only can make use of about half of the voltage applied to the system (the bigger the difference is in the motors, the bigger the difference in the voltage will be)
there's another factor to keep in mind
R = U/I (resitance is voltage divided by current)
which basically means the following:
if you send a known voltage through a known resistance all you can measure is a current;
and vice versa.
Put 24V into a 0.667Ohm system and you'll measure 16 Amps
Allow 16 Amps through a 0.65 Ohm Resistor and you'll measure 24.64 Volts
So if the internal resistance of a motor is different from the other motor and
since changing the load will change the internal resistance and the rpm
it's nearly impossible for the motors to level each other out.
Since everytime one motor takes up more load it's going to increase it's internal resistance due to the heat drawing even more currents, allowing less Voltage to reach the other one and finally it'll pull all the load and the other one just revs freely.
They still have the same rpm, but at a very different Powerconsumption.
You can't do anything against it, since adjusting one lead (to compensate the difference in resistance) it's always a resistor to BOTH motors!
And even if by chance both internal resistances are perfectly the same...
one ungreased roller in one of the chain is enough to allow one to ever so slightly draw more power.. and the problem begins.
'sid
dcastillo
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superb answer as usual... I will have to reread that a few times...
but one quick question...
Why did you choose the following values in your example?
"Put 24V into a 0.667Ohm system and you'll measure 16 Amps
Allow 16 Amps through a 0.65 Ohm Resistor and you'll measure 24.64 Volts"
I would have said something like
"Put 10V into a 1 Ohm system and you'll measure 10 Amps
Allow 10 Amps through a 1 Ohm Resistor and you'll measure 10 Volts"
just wondering...
-D
but one quick question...
Why did you choose the following values in your example?
"Put 24V into a 0.667Ohm system and you'll measure 16 Amps
Allow 16 Amps through a 0.65 Ohm Resistor and you'll measure 24.64 Volts"
I would have said something like
"Put 10V into a 1 Ohm system and you'll measure 10 Amps
Allow 10 Amps through a 1 Ohm Resistor and you'll measure 10 Volts"
just wondering...-D
Oh that's easy to answer...
We were talking about 750W 48Volt motors earlier in this thread..
for no particular reason I took that number for this example.
750 W /48 V = 15.625 A (rounded to 16A)
So since ideally you only can make use of half of the Voltage
I calculated the resistance (24V / 16A)
to be 0.666..6 Ohms
there was my first number,
and since I wanted to have a different resistance for the second example to show where the discrepancies will come from I just took 0.65 (to be close but not spot on)
it doesn't make sense since the system will not provide more than 48V,
but I was too lazy to adjust the Voltages according to the resistances
in fact it'll be more like 24.2V vs 23.8V or something .. (still too lazy to find out)
also the resistance of 750W 48V motors must be in the 1.54 Ohm region...
But it was just an example.. So i didn't care
'sid
We were talking about 750W 48Volt motors earlier in this thread..
for no particular reason I took that number for this example.
750 W /48 V = 15.625 A (rounded to 16A)
So since ideally you only can make use of half of the Voltage
I calculated the resistance (24V / 16A)
to be 0.666..6 Ohms
there was my first number,
and since I wanted to have a different resistance for the second example to show where the discrepancies will come from I just took 0.65 (to be close but not spot on)
it doesn't make sense since the system will not provide more than 48V,
but I was too lazy to adjust the Voltages according to the resistances
in fact it'll be more like 24.2V vs 23.8V or something .. (still too lazy to find out
)also the resistance of 750W 48V motors must be in the 1.54 Ohm region...
But it was just an example.. So i didn't care
'sid
Ahmed_bilal
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I need a series wound motor with 4 terminals A1 A2 S1 S2 for my controller, i have an old used one in mind but does anyone know where i can get one that is over 2hp (1400w)? For around £150.
Thanks
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Ahmed_bilal
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Hi guys i have finished my kart and wired it all up and i was able to run it for about 25min! Thank you for your help.
I have a charging question, i haven't tried yet but would it be alright to connect my 3 12v batteries in parallel to my 12v agm battery charger?
I think it would be alright but it would increase the time taken to charge because of current being added, right?
I have a charging question, i haven't tried yet but would it be alright to connect my 3 12v batteries in parallel to my 12v agm battery charger?
I think it would be alright but it would increase the time taken to charge because of current being added, right?
I'm not sure since the more charge the battery carries the more amp it needs to add more charge..
I'd charge them one by one and not in parallel to ensure the charger itself is capable of providing enough Amperage, depending on the size of the Batteries...
but you can check that yourself real quick..
just charge ONE battery and see how much amps the charger must provide.
then triple that amount and check against the specs of your charger.
if that trippled Amperage is below the max allowed Amperage.. I see no reason why it shouldn't work to charge your batteries in parallel
but read just the peak value to be on the safe side.
'sid
I'd charge them one by one and not in parallel to ensure the charger itself is capable of providing enough Amperage, depending on the size of the Batteries...
but you can check that yourself real quick..
just charge ONE battery and see how much amps the charger must provide.
then triple that amount and check against the specs of your charger.
if that trippled Amperage is below the max allowed Amperage.. I see no reason why it shouldn't work to charge your batteries in parallel
but read just the peak value to be on the safe side.
'sid
dcastillo
New member
Good point Sid...
I currently charge 6 batteries in parallel... but I assumed it would be fine since I have slightly heavier duty 10Amp charger...
http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SC...F8&qid=1408127651&sr=1-1&keywords=SC-1000A-CA
though I should go back and check the specs on the battery, especially since I was planning on adding two more making 8 total....
-D
I currently charge 6 batteries in parallel... but I assumed it would be fine since I have slightly heavier duty 10Amp charger...
http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SC...F8&qid=1408127651&sr=1-1&keywords=SC-1000A-CA
though I should go back and check the specs on the battery, especially since I was planning on adding two more making 8 total....
-D
Ahmed_bilal
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Ok thanks the charger will be able to.Ill try it out tomorrow
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