Duromax or predator.

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Steves

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Hi first post. I did a lot of searching on here about the 16hp duromax engine. Before looking into the duromax engine, I bought one for $150 it had a couple of hours on it, now would I be better off selling this and go with the 212cc predator or staying with the duromax? If I stay with the duromax, I know I got a little more HP and the electric start, and I will need to buy the 40 series TC. The cons is I can't find a aftermarket throttle assembly, most of these Honda clones look the same. But no not this one uggh. Also a con I have read is if you by pass the governor the engine will seize. Does anyone have any ideas?

The kart I picked up is a old Carter hot bodies kart.
 
firemanjim

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Steves said:
Hi first post. I did a lot of searching on here about the 16hp duromax engine. Before looking into the duromax engine, I bought one for $150 it had a couple of hours on it, now would I be better off selling this and go with the 212cc predator or staying with the duromax? If I stay with the duromax, I know I got a little more HP and the electric start, and I will need to buy the 40 series TC. The cons is I can't find a aftermarket throttle assembly, most of these Honda clones look the same. But no not this one uggh. Also a con I have read is if you by pass the governor the engine will seize. Does anyone have any ideas?

The kart I picked up is a old Carter hot bodies kart.
Click to expand...
You can make a throttle assembly.... This is a DIY forum.... LoL
No your engine won't seize, but you don't MERELY bypass the governor. You must take engine crankcase cover off and remove it. Bypassing will result in a ticking time bomb....
Are you crazy ? We try getting 11-12 HP out of the 212's ..... You're starting with 16 out the gate. I can see an easy 20hp with low buck mods and no governor. And no longevity issues either, unless you keep it at max rpm CONSTANTLY. .... My gx160 has low buck mods , no governor, and been running it for a few years now, balls to the wall.... I have video of it running at 6400 rpm with mychron race tach. ... I wouldn't recommend those rpms for the duromax, but the stock springs should surrender to valve float around 5600-5800 rpm.... At least my 212 will.....
Oh, welcome to the forum... :welcome2:
 
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Thanks for the reply.. Maybe I should just stick with it and see what happens. I already have the motor and it's nearly new. I will try and fabricate some type of throttle linkage and when I do I will post a few pics.
 
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Welcome!!

Do not just bypass the governor....remove the internals as well. If you just bypass it the internal gears might come loose and cause damage in the engine. The engine will definitely not seize. Just make sure you keep the valve springs stock unless you have replaced the rod with a billet one

Regarding the throttle, post some pics here of the engine and someone will give you ideas on what to do
 
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So I'm going to take the engine apart tomorrow and remove the governor. I know on most things you don't reuse the gaskets, if I'm careful enough not to rip it you think it will be fine to reuse? I have a old tube of yamabond from a motorcycle engine rebuild I did a while back, maybe run a new bead on the old gasket?
 
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Steves said:
So I'm going to take the engine apart tomorrow and remove the governor. I know on most things you don't reuse the gaskets, if I'm careful enough not to rip it you think it will be fine to reuse? I have a old tube of yamabond from a motorcycle engine rebuild I did a while back, maybe run a new bead on the old gasket?
Click to expand...

Whenever I remove the governor on predators I always just reuse the old gasket and I’ve never had any issues. As long as you don’t rip it up a bunch I think it should be fine, even though some people will probably say to replace it.
 
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I was thinking about a carb like these, I used plenty on my mini bikes I built, this would eliminate all those springs and throttle handles on top the engine. I'm going to use my digital caliper and measure the one that is on the motor and find one the same size, I don't want to have to do any other replacements to acomidate the bigger carb sizes.
 
KartFab

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you typically have to get an adapter on your intake, then rubber hose, then carb, adapters are like $40, or make your own, then rubber hose is cheap. Not to say 'buy this' but this is the type of setup used just for illustration. https://www.nrracing.com/product-p/mikuni-34rs-kit-gx390-gas.htm

You can probably get hose for $10, make your own adapter, or pay $40 for it, hose clamps are cheap, air filters are cheap, and carb is like what $35? so you could probably get it all for under $100 if you play your cards right shopping around.
 
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I was going to say that there aren't any direct bolt on (non stock appearing) replacement carbs that I know of. So if you don't want to make or purchase a manifold/adapter, then you are probably stuck with the stock carb and figuring out the linkages.
 
Joe-405

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Steves said:
I was thinking about a carb like these, I used plenty on my mini bikes I built, this would eliminate all those springs and throttle handles on top the engine. I'm going to use my digital caliper and measure the one that is on the motor and find one the same size, I don't want to have to do any other replacements to acomidate the bigger carb sizes.
Click to expand...

Do yourself the favor and just get the 32 at very minimum size. Your not gonna be too big I promise you. I have put a 40mm on one with no issues with mild mods.
 
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Joe-405 said:
Do yourself the favor and just get the 32 at very minimum size. Your not gonna be too big I promise you. I have put a 40mm on one with no issues with mild mods.
Click to expand...

With the 40mm did you notice any loss of low end? Throttle response, crispyness?

I'm thinking you don't spend much time at part throttle. :thumbsup:
 
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Crappy thing is the distance between the 2 carb bolts is 2 1/16" which is 52.3mm. I can't find a intake manifold to accommodate. So either I find someone to fabricate one for me or keep the stock carb. I found a seller selling a billet intake manifold, that might work, I'm waiting for his response back to see what the bolt distance is, but that piece alone is $40.

I have a few questions about all the hoses coming out of the engine. 1 hose came from the top of the fuel tank into the air filter box, the 2nd hose came from the top of the head to the air filter box as well, is that for some California emissions crap?
 
Joe-405

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Randy H said:
With the 40mm did you notice any loss of low end? Throttle response, crispyness?

I'm thinking you don't spend much time at part throttle. :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Nope. I was only part throttle driving back after a 1/8 mile pass anyways. Hahaha. So no never really noticed.

But I can tell you I personally had a koso 34mm but I have talked with multiple people that put a 40 or even a 44 and they said they didn’t lose anything at all. Just gained everywhere across the whole range.

For a engine with a cam only and maybe bumper compression I would choose a 34mm all day. People only use the smaller due to rules and regulations of the class they are running. Big blocks love fuel and air.
 
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Yes the hoses are vents and routed as per EPA regs... The tank has a ball check valve breather, as the cap is non-vented.
The valve cover has a breather for the crankcase. You can use a fuel filter for a breather filter, or if you can find those small filters from k&n, that'll work too...
Either way, don't cap them off, they need to breathe.
 
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