firemanjim
Just kartin' around....
Take that one off. Measure it from eye to eye. Then search ebay for one from a name brand atv, the same length as yours. You want one from a BIG quad..... It will have a higher spring rate......
Driving problems in 4-wheel indep suspension
- Thread starter zoelo01
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Take that one off. Measure it from eye to eye. Then search ebay for one from a name brand atv, the same length as yours. You want one from a BIG quad..... It will have a higher spring rate......
fowler
New member
This is precisely why I rekobemded u try a solid bar the place of a shockie
firemanjim
Just kartin' around....
fowler
New member
Then a proper shock absorber wont help
Thats a very intresting way to spell rekomended
Woops
Thats the way samsung thinks it should be
Thats a very intresting way to spell rekomended
Woops
Thats the way samsung thinks it should be
I did and even stepped on the swing arms but it was still bouncing.
Now, can you think of anything pertaining to the engine: low RPM -> bouncing, high RPM->fine.
Poboy kartman
Senior Moments Member
You probably trained it that way. ......Let's see. ....rekomend.....nope my phone suggests recommended. .....when I type that. .....
And it's a Samsung. ......
firemanjim
Just kartin' around....
I think you have less than 20% of the karts weight actually bearing down on the drive wheel and it's causing your problem. I'm going to sit down and (hand) draw you what I see wrong with your kart. I mentioned it in a previous post, but I don't think my message was fully understood..... I'll be back, very shortly.....
firemanjim
Just kartin' around....
Should be self explanatory...... Look back at the pics on the first page. If you look at the one from the back, the swing arms pivot in 2 different places. Not in the same line..... The drive side pivots farther back than the non drive side. The drive side is also longer, because it's mounted behind the frame,off those 2 bars. The non drive side pivots AT the frame....
I'm not an engineer, but I know this can't be an effective /efficient drive set up/ suspension set up. 3 of your corners are holding up all the weight of your kart, leaving the drive side to do as it does......
I could be wrong, but at this point, there isn't a better explanation. You put a solid bar in place of that shock and it did the same thing..... Because there was still no weight on it. The weight is shifting onto the other 3 axles....
IDK
I'm not an engineer, but I know this can't be an effective /efficient drive set up/ suspension set up. 3 of your corners are holding up all the weight of your kart, leaving the drive side to do as it does......
I could be wrong, but at this point, there isn't a better explanation. You put a solid bar in place of that shock and it did the same thing..... Because there was still no weight on it. The weight is shifting onto the other 3 axles....
IDK
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silforty
New member
I agree with the fact that your arms are different length and the fact that they pivot at different places. I would also like to see long video, if you could one from side and one showing the sprocket and clutch. I believe your problem is with your chain, JS or clutch. I do not believe it lies within the suspension at all.
kart bruiser
New member
8 inches is the most i have ever tried to span a jackshaft settup
i think you have a chain pulling up outside the jackshaft and another pulling down that jackshaft in middle of too wide settip and is bouncing the jackshaft itself almost imperceptibly causing your chain to pop back onto tooth or sometime off
i think you have a chain pulling up outside the jackshaft and another pulling down that jackshaft in middle of too wide settip and is bouncing the jackshaft itself almost imperceptibly causing your chain to pop back onto tooth or sometime off
kart bruiser
New member
definitely upgrade to 41 chain there is no wiggle room on a 35 chain rigistration has to be precise and if i am using more than 5hp i use guides or sprocket guards to help guide chain under stress cause 35s have a tendency to twist under stress causing a poppiung sound as the chain pops back onto sprocket tooth
firemanjim
Just kartin' around....
He is not using #35 chain. Look at the pics, it's at least a #40....maybe even #420... Chain on jackshaft (under engine) looks like #420....
For those think the bearing load on the driving wheel is too light. It's not true.
1) I stepped on the driving wheel (165 lbs) but the problem is still there.
2) The driving wheel actually is purposely set to be slightly lower than the plane formed by the other three wheels, i.e., the driving wheel bears most of the load.
1) I stepped on the driving wheel (165 lbs) but the problem is still there.
2) The driving wheel actually is purposely set to be slightly lower than the plane formed by the other three wheels, i.e., the driving wheel bears most of the load.
The chain I installed is #35. Some one posted about the strength of chains, and did not think the problem is coming from the chain.
So the discussion was directed to the swing arms.
This is new in this thread. You are the first one questioning about the JS and clutch. I believe JS is fine but clutch might be it.
Should clutch were the problem, that would explain why the bouncing only occurs in low RPM.
The clutch used in this go kart is Hilliard #35, 3/4, 12T. If that is the case, how likely the problem will go away if the clutch is replaced?
The reason I installed a 19" long JS is because I want the engine to sit in the center. The bang is caused by the bouncing. If the bouncing goes away, so does the bang.
davidbooth1991
New member
Is it just me or do these shocks look a bit steep..
Can't you get a friend to video you driving the kart over a speed bump....
Just re watched the video...
Did you build the kart. If so how much play is there In the shock bracket at the wheel end
it looks like its rattling inside the bracket and not engaging the stroke of the shock..
Can't you get a friend to video you driving the kart over a speed bump....
Just re watched the video...
Did you build the kart. If so how much play is there In the shock bracket at the wheel end
it looks like its rattling inside the bracket and not engaging the stroke of the shock..
firemanjim
Just kartin' around....
I stand corrected..... It sure looks bigger than #35 in the pics....to me anyways....
Should be self explanatory...... Look back at the pics on the first page. If you look at the one from the back, the swing arms pivot in 2 different places. Not in the same line..... The drive side pivots farther back than the non drive side. The drive side is also longer, because it's mounted behind the frame,off those 2 bars. The non drive side pivots AT the frame....
I'm not an engineer, but I know this can't be an effective /efficient drive set up/ suspension set up. 3 of your corners are holding up all the weight of your kart, leaving the drive side to do as it does......
I could be wrong, but at this point, there isn't a better explanation. You put a solid bar in place of that shock and it did the same thing..... Because there was still no weight on it. The weight is shifting onto the other 3 axles....
IDK
The drawing related to rear swing arms is correct. Here is something to ponder. The driving wheel has an 1 inch shorter arm compared to that of the right non-driving wheel. A shorter arm should have bounced more frequently than the non-driving wheel's arm under the same load. However, the driving wheel actually is compensated with more load in this design. In theory, the driving wheel should be harder to bounce than the other.
An other observation may lead to a totally opposite conclusion. From Physics, pulling a rubber band to a critical point results in self vibration. In that scenario, if a shock is compressed to some degree, it starts self vibrating. I am not sure that is what happened here. However, it does explain why bouncing in low RPM because there is much load bearing on the driving wheel in low RPM. In high RPM, the load tends to evenly distributed over four wheels. Anyhow, it is my conjecture.
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