fowler
New member
U are stepping on it while driveing?
If thats not working then u will have to post a video
If thats not working then u will have to post a video
Driving problems in 4-wheel indep suspension
- Thread starter zoelo01
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fowler
New member
We don't know what the promblem is
With out a video
I dout chain type has anything to do with it
With out a video
I dout chain type has anything to do with it
Here comes the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7awOCmhbZI
and
https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=k6mpGjTg1Ok
Updates: I found the chain is a bit loose. There is no chain tension adjustment. I plan to add some, and replace the #35 to #41. I feel the chain may not strong enough but that is another issue.
In the video, there is no bang (chain kicks teeth) somehow. Anyhow, let's focus on the vibration issue first.
Any ideas, comments, or remedies would be highly appreciated
fowler
New member
Chain strenght wint affect it
Til.it snaps
A loose chain wont help
But wont cause that
Still.think its a traction issue caused by shock and frame besr fix will be 2 wheel drive
Til.it snaps
A loose chain wont help
But wont cause that
Still.think its a traction issue caused by shock and frame besr fix will be 2 wheel drive
firemanjim
Just kartin' around....
Uhh, can you get more than 5 seconds of video?
In my opinion, you need to put a solid bar in place of the shock, just to see what happens. I'm also thinking that your shock mount should have been place closer to the axle, than it is now. I think the bouncing would stop......
The chain, if it's "kicking" teeth, is too lose..... Put a spring loaded tensioner on the return side.....
In my opinion, you need to put a solid bar in place of the shock, just to see what happens. I'm also thinking that your shock mount should have been place closer to the axle, than it is now. I think the bouncing would stop......
The chain, if it's "kicking" teeth, is too lose..... Put a spring loaded tensioner on the return side.....
I did a test by placing a solid bar instead of the shock but it does not help at all.Uhh, can you get more than 5 seconds of video?
In my opinion, you need to put a solid bar in place of the shock, just to see what happens. I'm also thinking that your shock mount should have been place closer to the axle, than it is now. I think the bouncing would stop......
The chain, if it's "kicking" teeth, is too lose..... Put a spring loaded tensioner on the return side.....
Would you please provide a link to the spring loaded tensioner you mentioned.
firemanjim
Just kartin' around....
Something like this one, but this one is $$fancy$$..... 
I think your shock needs to be further back, closer to the axle. It will reduce the leverage that the swing arm has, thus making it harder to push up......http://cambriangokarts.com/store/product/3566/GSR-Billet-Chain-Tensioner/
I think your shock needs to be further back, closer to the axle. It will reduce the leverage that the swing arm has, thus making it harder to push up......http://cambriangokarts.com/store/product/3566/GSR-Billet-Chain-Tensioner/
firemanjim
Just kartin' around....
I'm lost then.....
OzFab
Well-known member
Although this is a good setup, from an engineering point-of-view, it's not great...
For this type of setup to work correctly & efficiently, the swing arm mount must be in line with the sprocket; now, before you say "it is in line with the sprocket", no, it's not; the centre line of the swing arm is above the centreline of the sprocket; the only way to fix that is to realign the swing arm so the centre of the bars are inline with the centre of the bearings, on both ends that way it will pivot on the same axis as the chain...
Having said that, I'm not saying that will fix the problem but, it won't hurt...
For this type of setup to work correctly & efficiently, the swing arm mount must be in line with the sprocket; now, before you say "it is in line with the sprocket", no, it's not; the centre line of the swing arm is above the centreline of the sprocket; the only way to fix that is to realign the swing arm so the centre of the bars are inline with the centre of the bearings, on both ends that way it will pivot on the same axis as the chain...
Having said that, I'm not saying that will fix the problem but, it won't hurt...
firemanjim
Just kartin' around....
That's what is causing your chain to "kick".... You're getting slack in there, during suspension travel..... Has any one else noticed that the left arm pivots in a different plane that the right? And that it's longer/sticks out past the right side? Look at the last few pics again...... I think that's what your problem is coming from..... Fatal error in an other wise good idea..... There is too many small errors adding up to not being what you were expecting.....
Good findings. My original intent was to absorb 2" movement of the shocks. It looks like it is not working
Has any one else noticed that the left arm pivots in a different plane that the right? And that it's longer/sticks out past the right side? Look at the last few pics again...... I think that's what your problem is coming from..... Fatal error in an other wise good idea..... There is too many small errors adding up to not being what you were expecting.....
Ok. I will realign the pivot, and this problem may be gone.
Sinbad001
Member
Although swing arm pivot and sprocket pivot being the same would be the best condition, it is not a game stopper. Motorcycles never share the same pivot and don't use tensioners. My Ninja has a nylon slider on top of the swingarm that the chain drags on without damaging the swingarm. Dirt bikes have these slides on the top and bottom of the arm because of their extreme travel.
Attachments
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chain-pic.jpg
firemanjim
Just kartin' around....
We were just saying, that that was why his chain was "kicking".
I was thinking that because the 2 arms pivot in different planes, could be the reason for the drive side hopping.... IMHO, had he designed it for both tires to have drive,and pivot the same, he would not have any problems at all.....
Updates
The problem is still there when motor speed is slow. When motor speeds up, it is gone. So the bouncing may be from the motor.
I figure the offset of arms is fine. The chain on the swing arms are perfectly aligned (check Math).
Now, why the engine causes that?
Note:I original want to attached the shock to one side of the swing arm but figure it may cause unbalance. So it took me a while to use my JD2 to bend the yoke. I purposely attached the yoke toward to the end of the yoke. So the shock would not be too soft with an attempt to reduce the bouncing problem.
The problem is still there when motor speed is slow. When motor speeds up, it is gone. So the bouncing may be from the motor.
I figure the offset of arms is fine. The chain on the swing arms are perfectly aligned (check Math).
Now, why the engine causes that?
Note:I original want to attached the shock to one side of the swing arm but figure it may cause unbalance. So it took me a while to use my JD2 to bend the yoke. I purposely attached the yoke toward to the end of the yoke. So the shock would not be too soft with an attempt to reduce the bouncing problem.
Attachments
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image.jpg
Just keep you posted that the swing arms are fine with that "offset". The chain is perfectly aligned with the arms when they move. The bang from the chain was caused by the bouncing tire. The bouncing problem, I guess, is caused by the engine in low RPM.
Ozan-fox
New member
are they real shock absorbers or just springs. shock absorbers in good condition won't bounce. they will have a more controlled up and down travel. imagine the rear end of a pick up truck with leaf springs only, the back end would be bouncing the entire time it is in motion.
I think it is just a spring not really a strut within. So you have one in mind to suggest.
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