"Driven Max Torque" converter?

[nola000]

I just bought a used Brister Fire F2-265E and Im trying to understand the torque converter system.

Im bouncing between the parts manual and mfgsupply.com trying to figure out what the hell a "driven max torque" is, as listed in the parts manual. I get 20 series. I get 30 series and 40 but what is this nonsense? Proprietary? Rare? Is it just a 20 with a different set of springs? The physical dimensions tell me its a Comet TC88 or 20 series.

mfgsupply.com has a section just for Brister go-carts(curiously the only manufacturer with its own page) but it lists it as a 30 series not "driven max torque" nor as the symmetrical 20 series which is obvious by visual inspection.

 

[nola000]

Did a little more looking and apparently "Max-torque" isnt a series by Comet but a separate manufacturer that uses an identical design.

If I ever needed to replace parts in the clutch system is it possible and would it make sense to just buy a complete Comet kit? I imagine parts availability is better with Comet.

Also, Go Power Sports lists "max-torque" parts for "Brister" and specs a max-torque specific belt (mxt98) while the parts manual for my Brister lists "max-torque" clutches but a Comet belt. The mxt98 and the Comet belt that the manual lists are completely different sizes.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Max torque is the brand

Driven is the part, sometimes called the driven pulley or big pulley.

Driver is the small pulley or driver pulley.

The belt part number in the list, is for a 20 series. 203582a

Comet Torque Converter Belts | Go Kart Drive Belts

Go Kart Belts and Mini Bike Belts. American Comet Torque Converter Belts, Go Kart Drive Belt Catalog: Genuine Comet 30 Series Belts, CAT99 Belts, 20 Series Belts, Comet 40 Series Belts, 44 Magnum and 500 Series Belts. Comet Torque Converter Belt Charts.

www.gokartsupply.com

 

[BaconBitRacing]

@JimD anything to add?

 

[JimD]

Education is free. Yes, it is a copy of Comet's series 20 but improved on all the failure points of the series 20 by Comet. They had no reason to make improvements since they were the only unit in production back in 1996 when we collected all the returns from the various manufacturers of go karts to see where the weak points are in that design.
Since they copied our SS clutch in 1983 I thought it only fair to do the same, "what goes around, comes around" . The reason we got back into t/c was Comet was not able to keep up with demand, so our design was to correct the problems of their design. Ours was a zinc die cast versus a sand cast so very little machining was needed on the driven unit. All three of our wear plugs touched the ramps at the same time on the driven. We used a double thick snap ring to hold it together and we only made a symmetric system. The symmetric system runs cooler and is much easier on the belt. We added a four adjustment holes in the driven for a little more fine tuning. Our ramps would last longer and rarely would need replacement which turned out very true because we hardly ever sold replacement ramps.

When kart production stopped in 2005 we no longer would order belts but started giving the cross reference to the series 20 belt Comet used. Murray had a very large center to center on their unit so they went directly to the belt manufacturer's for their own belt. We tried to only have one size belt that went with our t/c tube plate. Rotary Corp did have 1,000 belts made up to fit the Murray kart their p/n 12462.

The series 20 was for go karts while the series 30 was designed for mini-bikes but could be used on go karts and many of them did use it because of how easy it was to attach to the engine. Mini-bikes could get away with it because they are only driving a single wheel. Go karts with a live axle and tires that exceed 16' must start to make up grades.

The one things about guys is we never read instruction (woman do) we don't because we know it all until we screw it up then we might read them. Biggest problem with t/c is when and how you lube it. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS I AM NOT GOING TO TELL YOU.

Have a wonderful Christmas and be safe.

 

[nola000]

Education is free. Yes, it is a copy of Comet's series 20 but improved on all the failure points of the series 20 by Comet. They had no reason to make improvements since they were the only unit in production back in 1996 when we collected all the returns from the various manufacturers of go karts to see where the weak points are in that design.
Since they copied our SS clutch in 1983 I thought it only fair to do the same, "what goes around, comes around" . The reason we got back into t/c was Comet was not able to keep up with demand, so our design was to correct the problems of their design. Ours was a zinc die cast versus a sand cast so very little machining was needed on the driven unit. All three of our wear plugs touched the ramps at the same time on the driven. We used a double thick snap ring to hold it together and we only made a symmetric system. The symmetric system runs cooler and is much easier on the belt. We added a four adjustment holes in the driven for a little more fine tuning. Our ramps would last longer and rarely would need replacement which turned out very true because we hardly ever sold replacement ramps.

When kart production stopped in 2005 we no longer would order belts but started giving the cross reference to the series 20 belt Comet used. Murray had a very large center to center on their unit so they went directly to the belt manufacturer's for their own belt. We tried to only have one size belt that went with our t/c tube plate. Rotary Corp did have 1,000 belts made up to fit the Murray kart their p/n 12462.

The series 20 was for go karts while the series 30 was designed for mini-bikes but could be used on go karts and many of them did use it because of how easy it was to attach to the engine. Mini-bikes could get away with it because they are only driving a single wheel. Go karts with a live axle and tires that exceed 16' must start to make up grades.

The one things about guys is we never read instruction (woman do) we don't because we know it all until we screw it up then we might read them. Biggest problem with t/c is when and how you lube it. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS I AM NOT GOING TO TELL YOU.

Have a wonderful Christmas and be safe.

Wow, what a reply!!

One follow-up JimD. The belt issue.

Am I to use the Comet 203582-A or the MXT98? The belts are a different size.

COMET(31.25"L)



MXT98 (29.375")

11/16"W

 

[Denny]

Go with the Comet size and only use Comet belts!

 

[JimD]

The 98L belt was 30.250 outside circumference of the belt fitting a center to center distance of 7.375" to 7.500" All the series 20 belts measured 3/4" at the top of the "V" Belts are not cut with a knife but ground so they can be +/- .015 depending on who the manufacturer was. We used three different companies to buy our belts from. They are US companies but production was in Mexico in most cases.

If belts are too long raise the engine up using washers between the motor mount plate and the bottom of the engine.

 

[nola000]

So I just checked and my crankshaft center to jackshaft center (drive to driven center) is right at about 8". The drive is 4.5" and the driven is 7.153". I ordered the Comet 203582 belt. I hope thats right.