The drive does nothing to protect against kick-back - it protects the starter from being over-revved when the motor starts. They do not have a break-away clutch to limit the torque transferred back to the starter on a kick-back.I;ve seen on "you tube" using a bendix drive ( just the drive ) merely because it's a one direction drive that will not tear your arm off when the motor kicks.
Da Flash
You beat me! I was just at harbor freight looking for that, apparently they no longer carry one.Northern Tool - among others - sell rachet adapters that would do the same basic thing a bendix does.
So if the electric start ain't makin' it, seems like 1 of 3 things.............. 1: You want to upgrade to a high-rpm-rated flywheel (not available in a toothed starter type flywheel) for safety and higher rpm power, or 2: You're cranking the electric start and it ain't cranking up, or 3: You're as OCD as I am and just want anything and everything and something to work when you get to the ride destination ready to start riding.I have an electric start,
Holy weightlifters, Batman! It has 2 handles for 2 of the pit crew, how much does that thing weigh? And is that a 1-way ratchet or bendix or whatever holding the socket? 6-point socket for strength, or 12-point socket for easy fitting? What are the curved teeth on the ends of the metal plate all about? Starter button on the crew chief's side only, none on the other side?it's functional!
Kohler 7000 series V-twin , and 190CCA battery. With 2 to 1 reduction , it should spin over my 5hp briggs quick like.What is the starter motor off of?