Drift trike for the grandbrat!

Master Hack

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Just when ya thought l forgot about this....
l replaced the front pedal/axle with a custon axle/foot peg.
yeah big deal, but the wheel hub was bycycle loose ball bearings, with a sprag in the wheel hub. That left a mess of parts with weird sizes that fit nothing. I need wheel bearings... So l had to take a trip down to the archives on level -835 in the Mt. Top Labratory dungeon.
The solution:
The axle/footpeg is 17mm on one side and 20mm on the other.
the 17mm side took a 203 bearing. the OD fit the hub nicely, but cuz the axle is knurled i had to bore the bearing lD out .020 incn( not m&ms)
the other side;
Took a 6905 bearing, cuz the 20mm ID fit the axle shaft. The OD fit nothing.
So.... l bored the sprag thingy out of the hub. Now thats a weird size. So, l made a sleve .060 inch (not m&ms) to fit the OD of the bearing.
If you took the time to read this and it actually made sense, you might need to get a life.
for clarity l took a pic.

IMG_4976.jpeg
 

panchothedog

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Well after that trip to the archives dungeon, and all that boring in inches, and not millimeters, and spending a good portion of my life reading your post, I have to ask, Does It Work?
 

Master Hack

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This thing came to life today!
There was an issue with transulating the labels on the wires. There are labels but "power lock", " indicator" and "speed adjuster" might not mean what you think.
Anyhow, it runs without sparks or smoke.
l would like to thank my coach, our very own Functual Artist for working with our engineering team to come up with a solution!
 

Denny

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This thing came to life today!
There was an issue with transulating the labels on the wires. There are labels but "power lock", " indicator" and "speed adjuster" might not mean what you think.
Anyhow, it runs without sparks or smoke.
l would like to thank my coach, our very own Functual Artist for working with our engineering team to come up with a solution!
You ain’t made it move yet, so hold off a little on patting yourself on the back. But congratulations on it making noise though. :ROFLMAO:
 

Master Hack

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You ain’t made it move yet, so hold off a little on patting yourself on the back. But congratulations on it making noise though
Tough crowd!
Makin noise is a big step! Here is the problem.....
The deal was, Dad supplies the tires/wheels, batteries, and paint.
i would supply the rest and put it all together.
we started in may, just got the batteries this week. Maybe it will be done by christmas.
 

Master Hack

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lt has been an exciting weekend here @ The Mountain top labs! another step towards completion!
Our loyal fans have been emailing daily asking when. Thank you, both!
So here it is! Paint and reassembly of wires and shyt.

IMG_5029.jpeg

Stay tuned for the next exciting episode, when we put some more shiny thingys on there. You don't wanna miss it!
 

Master Hack

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So this episode is titled "Oh shyt smoke and fire".
After disassembly paint and re assembly the smoke came pouring outta the control box. I will take the dumbass award for this.
It started when I found some bent pins in the connectors. Fixed that but the Chinglish labels on the connectors need some translation. Resulting is the fireworks. So its actually the manufacturers fault.
Fast forward a week and the new controller is here. To prevent further excitement I have reached out to our resident Electron wrangler, functional artist for guidance and translation.

Pic of the overall cluster:

IMG_5034.jpeg

The wires to the throttle (5) are purdy easy. Red to red, green to green, black to black. The problem is the yellow and blue.
IMG_5036.jpeg

As seen with the new connector pins attached. There is no Y/B wires on the other end.
So Are those for the "indicator" or "power lock"? I'm purdy confident that it is NOT "brake" or "brake light". I think I know what the "charge" wires do.
So I will await guidance before connecting the batteries.
In case you are wondering 48VDC makes an big spark!
Throttle:
IMG_5037.jpeg
 

Functional Artist

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Hey T,

IIRC the blue & yellow wires are for the key switch

First/maybe try a test: :thumbsup:

With the throttle completely disconnected from...everything
...connect the positive of a 12V battery to the yellow wire
...& then, use a 12V test light (or mm) to see "if" the blue wire has/shows any voltage

Then, switch the key switch "on"
...& "see" if the blue wire has/shows any voltage

If this "test" shows voltage (should be ~12V in this test)
...this indicated these wires are for the switch :cheers2:
 
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