Drift trike build

[Jaxonfox120]

First time posting, A little background. I've built a bunch of go karts, even built a 3 wheeled go kart with one wheel on the back and two up front. recently I decided to dive into the Drift trike world, found a cheap Trike with a live axle, predator 212, and looks like a mini bike front end with a terribly mounted caliper. the way this guy welded the front end on is terrible, it drifts alright but the front tire having 0 angle and being as small as it is makes it straighten out way to much. My question is, I want to switch the front end with a BMX or something front end but im not sure what the angle should be.

 

[Denny]

Why don’t you just cut off the front end that is on there now and reweld it with an angle in the forks. 8-10 degrees or so.

 

[Rat]

Why don’t you just cut off the front end that is on there now and reweld it with an angle in the forks. 8-10 degrees or so.

Looking at the pics, because it would sit too low.

My question is, I want to switch the front end with a BMX or something front end but im not sure what the angle should be.

Denny has the right idea, but he oversimplified a bit. You can add angle like he suggested, but you'll need to shorten the down tube a bit and move the steering head down to maintain the same ride hight with the additional rake and caster angle.

I'd recommend cutting off what ever length is there at the angle chane in the down tube leading to the head tube be ause that will push the front wheel down and it should be an easy butt weld that should also be gusseted.

I can see why you would want to use a bigger wheel, but a BMX it's not the best option unless you do a bit of custom work to keep the disc brake

 

[Denny]

I rather have that front tire than a bmx bike tire and rim. Yes RLS cleared it up. You would have to add angle and move it down. I have a tendency to forget that most people don’t think like I do so I’m not real good at explaining things sometimes.

 

[Rat]

Looking closer, if you just cut the box tube squarely to its own dimensions, removed half its length, shaved of what would remain on the steer tube, and just welded the steer rub back on like that you'd be gaining 10° easy in caster angle while loosing nearly no front hight.

Problem I see presently is that the rear stance is higher than the front which would be messing with the load physics. Ideally you want it level or slightly nose above rear to put the load more on the rear-end so there's weight distribution enough to carry the swinging momentum.