Dingo update-Hydraulic Brakes

bullseye670

Active member
Messages
125
Reaction score
141
Location
Howell Michigan
So I've got things tuned in now on the Dingo. In case you've seen my other posts, this is the 388 with a gx390 on it. My top speed now is 56 mph. She gets up to that pretty damn quick. Tons of power. I've been riding her around the backroads where I live. Just have to watch out for deer!
I redid the brakes on it. It originally came with a band brake. I upgraded to a disc brake on it. Worked pretty good but not great.
I went and purchased MCP hydraulic racing brakes.
The brakes came out Great. Now I can lock up the rear if I want to. Love the stopping ability now. I think it was well worth the cost.
I'll post a few pics of the brake install. I'm going to take things apart this winter and remove all the brackets from the old brakes.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20231011_155017131.jpg
    IMG_20231011_155017131.jpg
    5.1 MB · Views: 52
  • IMG_20231031_170752342.jpg
    IMG_20231031_170752342.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 50
  • IMG_20231031_170758689.jpg
    IMG_20231031_170758689.jpg
    2.6 MB · Views: 49
  • IMG_20231031_170743750.jpg
    IMG_20231031_170743750.jpg
    2.6 MB · Views: 50
  • IMG_20231031_170809808.jpg
    IMG_20231031_170809808.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 49
  • IMG_20231031_170804378.jpg
    IMG_20231031_170804378.jpg
    2.3 MB · Views: 49
Last edited:

Sauer_35

Member
Messages
57
Reaction score
32
Location
Cypress, TX
Okay I mounted and bleed the brake system, the MCP two line master cylinder and caliper. They close but have no holding power. I can still roll the axle by hand. If I removed the rotor the caliper will close all the way. Just wondering if you had a similar issue.
 

bullseye670

Active member
Messages
125
Reaction score
141
Location
Howell Michigan
I did have some issues at first. I'll se if I have a picture of the thing I made to blee them with air. I know it sounds crazy but if you do it carefully, it works great. I just did my second hydralic brake setup on my other Dingo. It took some tries but I eventually got it to where there is almost no pedal movement when you apply the brakes. The brakes are "right there" when you apply them.

I bought the bleeder kit that they sell for the MCP brakes on BMI Karts. I couldn't figure out how to get the thing to work. The bottle they give you hits the master cylinder arm when you try to use it. I took the cap and made this bleeder. I turned the air pressure from my compresser down to around 10 psi. Top off the fluid, then crack the bleeder and give it a quick shot of air. I was amazed at the air I got out. Just keep topping off the master cyliner so you don't shoot air or you will have to start over.

After that it took a lot of pumping the master cylinder real quickly, then a short bleed. It took a while, but I finally got the blue Dingo perfect.

Good luck. It can take some tries but they are well worth it. Let me know how it works out.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20231102_172656381.jpg
    IMG_20231102_172656381.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 15
  • IMG_20231102_172704572.jpg
    IMG_20231102_172704572.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 13
  • IMG_20231102_172645257.jpg
    IMG_20231102_172645257.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 15
  • IMG_20240606_032832180.jpg
    IMG_20240606_032832180.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 14

Sauer_35

Member
Messages
57
Reaction score
32
Location
Cypress, TX
I did have some issues at first. I'll se if I have a picture of the thing I made to blee them with air. I know it sounds crazy but if you do it carefully, it works great. I just did my second hydralic brake setup on my other Dingo. It took some tries but I eventually got it to where there is almost no pedal movement when you apply the brakes. The brakes are "right there" when you apply them.

I bought the bleeder kit that they sell for the MCP brakes on BMI Karts. I couldn't figure out how to get the thing to work. The bottle they give you hits the master cylinder arm when you try to use it. I took the cap and made this bleeder. I turned the air pressure from my compresser down to around 10 psi. Top off the fluid, then crack the bleeder and give it a quick shot of air. I was amazed at the air I got out. Just keep topping off the master cyliner so you don't shoot air or you will have to start over.

After that it took a lot of pumping the master cylinder real quickly, then a short bleed. It took a while, but I finally got the blue Dingo perfect.

Good luck. It can take some tries but they are well worth it. Let me know how it works out.
Thanks. I may have to wait u til I get some better help. My son and wife aren’t the best at following instructions. I’ll have to get a better bleeding device.
 

bullseye670

Active member
Messages
125
Reaction score
141
Location
Howell Michigan
With the setup I used I was able to do it by myself. I tried doing it with my wife pumping the brake pedal on the blue one. I thought that would work fine but I ended up going back to my "air bleeder". I went back at it a few times until I got it right. If your caliper is closing but not ot having any real force I'd say you definitely have some air in the lines.
I just remembered somthing. I had a small tube on the bleeder but it was hard to tell if I was bleeding any air because the tubing was allowing air into the bleeder tube making it hard to tell if I was removing any air from the system. I put a small clamp on the hose end to keep it tight on the bleeder.. That kept air from getting into the bleeder hose and I was able to see the fluid coming out. Hope that makes sense.
As it was, I couldn't tell if air was coming out of the caliper or if it was just getting in the bleeder hose at the bleeder.
 

bullseye670

Active member
Messages
125
Reaction score
141
Location
Howell Michigan
One more thing. I assume you adjusted the pads so they are just about touching the rotor. If you have them set too wide, you will have to push the pedal a bit further to stop.
A lot of the brake rotors out there are only 1/8" thick. I searched for a 3/16" one. The calipers come wide enough for a couple of 1/8" rotors to fit in there.
 

Sauer_35

Member
Messages
57
Reaction score
32
Location
Cypress, TX
With the setup I used I was able to do it by myself. I tried doing it with my wife pumping the brake pedal on the blue one. I thought that would work fine but I ended up going back to my "air bleeder". I went back at it a few times until I got it right. If your caliper is closing but not ot having any real force I'd say you definitely have some air in the lines.
I just remembered somthing. I had a small tube on the bleeder but it was hard to tell if I was bleeding any air because the tubing was allowing air into the bleeder tube making it hard to tell if I was removing any air from the system. I put a small clamp on the hose end to keep it tight on the bleeder.. That kept air from getting into the bleeder hose and I was able to see the fluid coming out. Hope that makes sense.
As it was, I couldn't tell if air was coming out of the caliper or if it was just getting in the bleeder hose at the bleeder.
Curious if you have a link or parts list on the bleeder you set up.
 

bullseye670

Active member
Messages
125
Reaction score
141
Location
Howell Michigan
Sure. Heres the air nozzle. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Pistol-Grip-Blow-Gun-HDA50400AV/100064491, 2 some very small hose clamps,https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-8-7-8-in-Stainless-Steel-Hose-Clamp-6760595/206261538, Here's the bleede kit I bought. I used the master cylindr cap from it on my bleeder, https://www.bmikarts.com/Bleeder-Kit-For-MCP-Brakes_p_618.html. get some 1/8" or 3/16" hose at a hardeware store or fuel line at your go kart store. It's nice having "Studz Racing" pretty close to me. Use the smallest hose you can find for a line off of the bleeder screw. Try to clamp it to it. I'm pretty sure I used a real small spring type fuel line clamp on it.

So anyways, rig up the air nozzle with the hose and the cap from the bleeder kit on the end of it. Clamp them on or they will blow apart. That's all there is to it. I turned my air compressor down as low as I could and used that. Small burst of air and bleed it. Kep oing it to your sure all the air is gone. Don't forget to keep checking your fluid leven in the master cylinder.
I did end up pumping the "master cylinder" s LOT of times, then a short bleed from the bleeder screw.
Keep doing it until your satisfied. Like I said, my pedal barely move when I apply the brakes. They are that tight. I do love it. Such a huge difference. I went from a band brake to a brake caliper, then this. Such a difference.
I went with the single line setup. Only one hydraulic line to run. You bleed them the same.
I hope you get it right. Just don't give up. I've done a million car brakes, but this actually seemed a bit harder to get right.

Let me know how it goes. I just got this one converted last month.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20240611_175322464.jpg
    IMG_20240611_175322464.jpg
    4.7 MB · Views: 10
  • IMG_20240611_175344307.jpg
    IMG_20240611_175344307.jpg
    4.5 MB · Views: 9
  • IMG_20240606_032832180 (1).jpg
    IMG_20240606_032832180 (1).jpg
    2 MB · Views: 10

Sauer_35

Member
Messages
57
Reaction score
32
Location
Cypress, TX
Absolutely thank you! You went above and beyond for me. I’ve ordered the part and hopefully get them soon so I can get the kids Kart back up. The old mechanical brakes just didn’t cut it since they ride on the road. I’m hoping to get this thing to actually stop.
 

Sauer_35

Member
Messages
57
Reaction score
32
Location
Cypress, TX
Sure. Heres the air nozzle. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Pistol-Grip-Blow-Gun-HDA50400AV/100064491, 2 some very small hose clamps,https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-8-7-8-in-Stainless-Steel-Hose-Clamp-6760595/206261538, Here's the bleede kit I bought. I used the master cylindr cap from it on my bleeder, https://www.bmikarts.com/Bleeder-Kit-For-MCP-Brakes_p_618.html. get some 1/8" or 3/16" hose at a hardeware store or fuel line at your go kart store. It's nice having "Studz Racing" pretty close to me. Use the smallest hose you can find for a line off of the bleeder screw. Try to clamp it to it. I'm pretty sure I used a real small spring type fuel line clamp on it.

So anyways, rig up the air nozzle with the hose and the cap from the bleeder kit on the end of it. Clamp them on or they will blow apart. That's all there is to it. I turned my air compressor down as low as I could and used that. Small burst of air and bleed it. Kep oing it to your sure all the air is gone. Don't forget to keep checking your fluid leven in the master cylinder.
I did end up pumping the "master cylinder" s LOT of times, then a short bleed from the bleeder screw.
Keep doing it until your satisfied. Like I said, my pedal barely move when I apply the brakes. They are that tight. I do love it. Such a huge difference. I went from a band brake to a brake caliper, then this. Such a difference.
I went with the single line setup. Only one hydraulic line to run. You bleed them the same.
I hope you get it right. Just don't give up. I've done a million car brakes, but this actually seemed a bit harder to get right.

Let me know how it goes. I just got this one converted last month.

IMG_4801.jpegIMG_4802.jpegIMG_4803.jpeg
 

SDcarting

Member
Messages
32
Reaction score
28
I had it made locally. I used 3AN fittings. Cost me $70. I wasn't expecting it to be that much but I do Like it. I'm doing the same brake setup on my 285 Dingo right now. Just got the mounts welded in yesterday. Going to have another hose made tomorrow.
You can get custom hoses made for this sort of stuff? Where do you get the end "crimped" or whatever the terminology is?
 

bullseye670

Active member
Messages
125
Reaction score
141
Location
Howell Michigan
I go to a local shop here in Michigan. I use AN3 fittings. It takes about 5 minutes to make the hose. Stainless braided in choice of color. I get the 90 degree elbow fitting for the calipers. https://www.plymouthrubber.net/ You can see it pretty good in this photo if you zoom.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20240606_032825232 (1).jpg
    IMG_20240606_032825232 (1).jpg
    2.5 MB · Views: 9
Top