Dingo questions....

[4runsport]

Hello everyone,
I am new to the boards here as I just scored a Manco Dingo off CL for $100 model 285-182. Hell of a find if I say so myself. The guy said it sat for 5 years and has no idea whats wrong with it. All parts are mostly there but much was left disassembled. Here is what I have done so far:
Oil change, plug change, cleaned clutch, new gas line, rebuilt the carb, put the drive gear back together (properly I hope) and a few other odds and ends. It has the Techumsen 5.5 motor on it.

My questions: The minute I put gas in it, it literally just poured out of the carb. I attributed this to a stuck float. When I took it to the mower shop it turns out that it didn't have a float pin, and everything was gummed up. I replaced the little gasket down where the pin sits, put the pin in, put everything back together but still it pisses gas. Could this be due to the fact the butterfly inside the carb is slightly open and allowing gas to flood the carb or am I missing something here? When I start the engine it fires up but quickly sputters out... ideas?

Second: the previous owner was a tool and put the wrong nuts on the ends of the shaft that has the small sprocket for the chain. Does anyone know what type of nuts theses are since they are not standard thread.

Thanks everyone. I will post pics tomorrow when I get some daylight. All of it was spent today on the go kart

 

[bighead]

Check the needle valve is not sticking and it's making a seal. If you lost the pin are you sure it's even there?

You said you rebuilt the carb and then it was gummed up? What did you do when you rebuilt the carb?

 

[4runsport]

So when I took the carb apart the little needle that attaches to the float wasn't even there, just gone. So when I bought the rebuild kit it came with a new little needle valve. The carb was gummed up prior to me rebuilding it. Sorry for the misunderstanding. Its tough to describe some of these things online.

 

[bighead]

So when I took the carb apart the little needle that attaches to the float wasn't even there, just gone. So when I bought the rebuild kit it came with a new little needle valve. The carb was gummed up prior to me rebuilding it. Sorry for the misunderstanding. Its tough to describe some of these things online.

So does the new one seal? Some china parts are really bad with this. take the carb off and blow thru the gas intake port. You should be able to blow thru it.

Then flip the carb upside down and blow thru the same gas intake port. You should not be able to blow thru it upside down.

This will tell you if it's working right. Also make sure the needle valve in connected to the float in the proper way.

Post a link to the rebuild kit you used.

 

[qtband]

Take the bowl off the carb and turn it 180 degrees. Your float is getting stuck on the bowl because it's on wrong.

 

[4runsport]

So I took the carb apart again today and turned the bowl to the proper position. It used to fire up and stall out. Now its not even turning over. I am going to take everything apart again tomorrow and see where I went wrong. Something with this float I think is the culprit :toetap05:

 

[osso12]

Do yourself a favor take that POS tecumseh carb and toss it, and either find you another one OR take the POS tecumseh engine off and go to harbor freight and pick you up a predator 200CC for about $100 and you will be MUCH happier trust me. And this is from someone that deals with these types of issues on a daily basis. Good luck if you don't take my advice. You will only have $200 invested in your cart but you will have a $450 kart retail if you wanted to sell it if you DO take my advice.

 

[B man]

Do yourself a favor take that POS tecumseh carb and toss it, and either find you another one OR take the POS tecumseh engine off and go to harbor freight and pick you up a predator 200CC for about $100 and you will be MUCH happier trust me. And this is from someone that deals with these types of issues on a daily basis. Good luck if you don't take my advice. You will only have $200 invested in your cart but you will have a $450 kart retail if you wanted to sell it if you DO take my advice.

Why is EVERYONE giving Tecumseh bad rep? There the best yard kart engine money could buy. There made for karting unlike those Knock-offs. (Which can have carb problems straight out of the box) The Tecumsehs are made better anyways.

 

[landuse]

Why is EVERYONE giving Tecumseh bad rep? There the best yard kart engine money could buy. There made for karting unlike those Knock-offs. (Which can have carb problems straight out of the box) The Tecumsehs are made better anyways.

I agree that you should give the tecumesh a chance. it is just a problem with the carb, which is an easy fix. Why go spend an extra $100 for an engine when you don't need one.

 

[bighead]

Why is EVERYONE giving Tecumseh bad rep? There the best yard kart engine money could buy. There made for karting unlike those Knock-offs. (Which can have carb problems straight out of the box) The Tecumsehs are made better anyways.

The best money can buy for yardkart?

Not saying they are junk. but they are far from the best. And there carbs are far from the best.

 

[OzFab]

Why is EVERYONE giving Tecumseh bad rep? There the best yard kart engine money could buy. There made for karting unlike those Knock-offs. (Which can have carb problems straight out of the box) The Tecumsehs are made better anyways.

If they're that good, why did the company go out of business?

 

[Doc Sprocket]

If they're that good, why did the company go out of business?

If Comet was that good, why did they go out of business? Or, have a look at the US auto makers-

There's more than one possible reason for a company to go belly-up. Mismanagement is one such reason.

I have had more Tec-powered OPE than anything else. I have never blown a rod, cracked a block, or had any other catastrophic engine failure. When the equipment has particularly high hours or age, there has been the occasional mag failure or other minor thing. This is nothing to write home about. Many people dump on Tec engines because they hear somebody else dump on them. No credibility there.

Tec carbs DO tend to be more sensitive to lousy maintenance than some others, but again- poor maintenance. Years ago, I adopted a practise that leaves all my carbs dry for storage. I have NEVER had a carb issue with my own equipment after that. The only time I have to clean or rebuild a carb these days is somebody else's, or on things that I have just acquired.

 

[4runsport]

So I am going to give the carb and engine another try. Not ready to give up on it yet since it did technically start on saturday.., it just died right away. I did realize that the bowl was put back on wrong which was why my carb was being flooded with gas. Im thinking maybe the pin is not seated properly or maybe the float needs adjusting. The weird thing is now it won't even turn over. it just cranks but nothing. I wonder if its even getting gas now. This is why I stopped doing this stuff in high school :arf:

 

[slideways]

I've had plenty of Tecumseh problems. And i HAVE tossed a rod right through the block on a bone stock fun kart into my back.. no hearsay there. The carbs are terrible, the motors take 5 minutes of idling and revving to use normally, i've never seen something that the recoils need that much repair. That being said i've never replaced a running one with a clone and i have 8 clones on various things all with zero issues.

The person who told you your bowl was on wrong is not correct. The bowl position has nothing to do with it running at a low rpm to start up. The step in the bowl must be oriented so that the float can drop down into it to allow more fuel to flow at a higher rpm. Next thing you'll be in here asking why does my Tecumseh break up and stumble on bumps while i'm riding? Clean all the little holes again with carb cleaner and an air compressor and make sure the jet in the bowl plug is clear too.

 

[OzFab]

If Comet was that good, why did they go out of business? Or, have a look at the US auto makers-

There's more than one possible reason for a company to go belly-up. Mismanagement is one such reason.

I can think of many reasons too but, ok, point taken

Tell me, is it frustrating always being right

 

[B man]

The best money can buy for yardkart?

Not saying they are junk. but they are far from the best. And there carbs are far from the best.

ok ok not the BEST you can get. But there pretty good at doing there job.

 

[B man]

I've had plenty of Tecumseh problems. And i HAVE tossed a rod right through the block on a bone stock fun kart into my back.. no hearsay there. The carbs are terrible, the motors take 5 minutes of idling and revving to use normally, i've never seen something that the recoils need that much repair. That being said i've never replaced a running one with a clone and i have 8 clones on various things all with zero issues.

The person who told you your bowl was on wrong is not correct. The bowl position has nothing to do with it running at a low rpm to start up. The step in the bowl must be oriented so that the float can drop down into it to allow more fuel to flow at a higher rpm. Next thing you'll be in here asking why does my Tecumseh break up and stumble on bumps while i'm riding? Clean all the little holes again with carb cleaner and an air compressor and make sure the jet in the bowl plug is clear too.

geezz if it took it 5min to warm up then there was defintly something wrong with the carb. mines ready to go right after it fires up. And about the bowl thing. mine doesnt seem to care ether way. runs fine both ways.

 

[osso12]

Not beating up on tecumseh.. the carbs speak for themselves time after time....

Ok...try this...
remove the carb from the engine... with carb upside right, remove float bowl and any gas inside the bowl. Let the float free hang.
With your mouth, blow on the gas inlet where fuel goes inside the carb. As you are blowing air into the inlet, take your free hand and push the float upward until the pin seats. The air your blowing in should stop you from blowing. You should hear no air leaks or seepage. Release float while you are still blowing and you should hear the air escape. Repeat process a couple of times to make sure the needle will seat. If it seals good and you cannot hear any air escape, replace bowl, install carb back on the engine and fire it up. Let us know the out come.

 

[osso12]

And about the bowl thing. mine doesnt seem to care ether way. runs fine both ways.

It really makes no difference. Technically the pin area where the float sits should align up with the flat portion of the bowl. IF there is a flat section. Many bowls are perfectly round. It really makes no difference if it is aligned as it will run either way aligned or not.

 

[4runsport]

Not beating up on tecumseh.. the carbs speak for themselves time after time....

Ok...try this...
remove the carb from the engine... with carb upside right, remove float bowl and any gas inside the bowl. Let the float free hang.
With your mouth, blow on the gas inlet where fuel goes inside the carb. As you are blowing air into the inlet, take your free hand and push the float upward until the pin seats. The air your blowing in should stop you from blowing. You should hear no air leaks or seepage. Release float while you are still blowing and you should hear the air escape. Repeat process a couple of times to make sure the needle will seat. If it seals good and you cannot hear any air escape, replace bowl, install carb back on the engine and fire it up. Let us know the out come.

Ok so I tried your trick and yes the pin seats. I even took out the little screw/ pin in the side that has the tiny holes and cleaned that out too. I checked over everything and still its not starting.