Dangerous or not? Cast or Billet?

[adh]

So I know that this question has been brought up many times but I wouldn’t mind some enlightenment. I took the governor out of my 212 on one of my yard karts but I left everything else stock except the jet in the carb, the intake and exhaust. I have been told it’s fine to leave the stock flywheel on if you run the stock jet cuz your carb limits your rpms then but that’s not the case here. I have revved it out to as fast as it will go and so far nothing has blown up yet so should I assume everything is safe? It doesn’t rev near as high with load on it of course so my opinion is it should be theoretically safe. Also I’m sure you all would recommend billet rod and flywheel but that just costs a bit more than I would like so is a cast aluminum flywheel alright?

https://files.fm/f/p2drznbad5

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Ad nauseum.

The stock valve springs are the next limiting factor after gov removal.

The carb has little to do with that.

The magnet is the next weak link.

A billet rod is for better oiling and a bit of strength but I don't hear much of rod failure in mild builds.

I run hopped up stuff and still run stock springs and flywheel. No issues yet.

 

[panchothedog]

A cast aluminum flywheel is safer than the stock one. By a lot. If you keep the stock valve springs in the valves will most likely float before anything lets go.
Are you running a centrifugal clutch or a torque converter? A torque converter will load the engine hard enough that it is hard to over rev. A centrifugal clutch, especially with small tires can usually let the engine rev much higher. FWIW, valve float can cause the piston and an open valve o collide. Results not good.

 

[Edwin Spangler]

Random failures happen with even the highest quality of things. (You wanna risk it?) The magnets shoot off like a huge magnetic 12g. slug, if they let go.

Stock flywheel donning Predator 212 Ghost motors rev the stock flywheel to 6k. (I do it all the time.)

-Just a couple conflicting facts to think about..

EDITED TO ADD A COUPLE THINGS

 

[adh]

So I’m running a torque converter and I have noticed it never has enough power to rev it up to the rpm it can without it on. And thanks for all the info. I’m not trying to make a super powerful build at this point I just wanted the higher rpms at a moderately safe level. And that’s interesting with the 212 ghost because I thought predator said the “stock” 212s flywheel is safe up to 4500 rpms

 

[adh]

Also I knew valve float was a thing but I didn’t really know the effect it had.

 

[Denny]

Your final drive ratio could be holding you back. What are your sprocket tooth counts and your tire size?

 

[adh]

Well it seems to be absolutely ripping but it could use a bigger sprocket. I’m running a 60 tooth right now with 18 inch tires

 

[Denny]

Well it seems to be absolutely ripping but it could use a bigger sprocket. I’m running a 60 tooth right now with 18 inch tires

If you have a 10 tooth on the jack shaft your golden. Engine may not be making enough power to go any faster.

 

[adh]

well, I guess I’m not golden. I’m running a 1 to 5 gear ratio plus whatever the torque converter does but it still launches super hard.

 

[panchothedog]

If the small sprocket (the one on the jack shaft ) is a 10 tooth that is the very best all around gearing combination. It will also load the engine hard enough that you shouldn't have to worry about blowing anything up. You could go to a 9 tooth, and that will wind up a little bit more. Should still be safe though. If you start changing cams and valve springs, then it's time to think about a flywheel and a rod.

 

[adh]

Ok sounds good. thanks again for all the advice.