Crazy's Kart (Grand Daddy Build)

CrazyAirborne

CrazyAirborne

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Hey all,
I know I "cheated" but for $1500, I felt it was a great price for a working stock grand daddy build. It has a Predator 420 on it. MCP disc brake. Im currently working on replacing the rear shocks, as they are bottoming out just on normal driving around the yard with my two daughters. The disc brake has tons of air in the line so they dont work very well. I found out through this forum that you cant just bleed them like a car brakes so Ive got the bleeder kit on its way. Ive made some slight adjustments already, like rerouting the throttle cable as it was starting to show wear from resting your gas pedal foot on it every time you drove, as well as I welded the steering wheel mount up, as it was really sloppy. Overall, it Drives nice and starts up first pull every time. I do have a few plans for it. Including a working "dash" with ignition, light switches, hour meter, etc.

Id like input on how to make the turning radius better, right now, you cant even turn around on a normal two lane country road without going in the ditch on both sides, its pretty bad.

Also any links to get me started on relocating the ignition/electric start switch would be awesome. Ive got a battery on the way as well.

Also looking for suggestions on how I could accomplish moving the pedals back a few inches, throttle is easy, but the brake pedal has me scratching my head, not sure how I could move it back with the master cylinder the way that it is.

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CrazyAirborne

CrazyAirborne

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UPS just dropped off some seatbelts. I think these will work great. Need to decide if I should drill and tap for the bolts, or just through drill and run a bolt and nut...20240417_180141.jpg
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Whitetrashrocker

Whitetrashrocker

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Nice.

Move the pedal behind the cross bar and just extend the push rod. Or drill the 2 holes where it would line up and shorten the hose.

I noticed the steering rod isn't clocked right. The u-joints should be lined up. Does it feel clunky when you steer?

Your also feeling the understeer induced by the solid rear axle.
Show some pics of the steering with the tires turned each way.
 
CrazyAirborne

CrazyAirborne

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Whitetrashrocker said:
Nice.

Move the pedal behind the cross bar and just extend the push rod. Or drill the 2 holes where it would line up and shorten the hose.

I noticed the steering rod isn't clocked right. The u-joints should be lined up. Does it feel clunky when you steer?

Your also feeling the understeer induced by the solid rear axle.
Show some pics of the steering with the tires turned each way.
Click to expand...
not sure what you mean by "isnt clocked right". The u joints are welded in this orientation and the steering seems to be fine, but I dont know any different since it came this way.
I think I get what you mean about the brake, I should be able to invert the setup and have the pedal on the other end of the master cylinder. going to dig into that a bit.
 
Whitetrashrocker

Whitetrashrocker

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OK. I thought you had short legs and needed to move closer.

Perhaps just a simple ¼ plate welded vertically on top of that tube. Move the master up on top and forward a few inches.
The pedal can stay low for pivot symmetry.

The ocd hit me with the u joints. Pretty sure it's a non issue.
 
TNThomas

TNThomas

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A few thoughts:

-I have the same MCP brake setup as you, I have one with a foot pedal, and one with a handbrake. Two separate lines with duplicate calipers/discs. Both are bled and brand new. I was very surprised at how much more force I was able to apply with the handbrake compared to the mcp master cylinder/foot pedal. If your bleed job doesn't work well, you might consider mounting a handbrake in-line with your brake line, that way you can apply more force if needed. Definitely bleed first though. My kart is much bigger, hence the dual setup.

-For increased turning radius, consider drilling a few holes on the little arm that is attached to your spindle (tire side of the tie-rod). You could easily gain a greater turning radius by doing this, but your forces on the tie rods will be greater. That might warrant beefing them up if they bend on you. You could also get a wider rack and pinion. That looks to be about 8" wide, I think mine is 11" and there are bigger ones too. You would get more teeth on the rack and pinion, so you could literally just push your tire out further. You could also mess around with a bigger sprocket on your drive shaft. Get a little more torque, and you could drift your rear end out a bit if needed.

-You should take a look at my shock setup, I thought the shocks were a weakpoint from the start. Somewhere on my post I have some really good info about them. Putting a little rack on the back frees up new shock angles. You can also mount a shock on the top of your front A-arms if you want to beef them up.

Smart idea on buying a pre-built one! The look to have done a good job too.
 
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