Crank cover tolerances, Permatext gasket

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PXL_20210824_105634058.jpgHeyPXL_20210824_105638618.jpgHey guys! I used Permatex to seal my crankcase, my main concern is that it's not as thick as the original gasket (gx200) is this cause for concern? I know ideally I should use a proper gasket, which I will be installing after the break in.. I'm kinda stumped on this one. The crank does seem a bit tighter. .. thoughts?
 

madprofessor

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You do you, but personally I'd never use gasket maker where any bearings are involved, especially those crankshaft bearings. There's specific tolerances allowed for the crank endplay, and you can't be consistent with goo like you can with a gasket.
There's all manner of shims for setting the right endplay on the crank, and it's oh so very much easier to choose the right ones with a gasket.
BTW: Gasket goo that oozes into a crankcase isn't a good idea.
 

panchothedog

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Shim kit is only about 5bucks. Then go to harbor freight tools and get the dial indicator ( forget how much but it ain't much) and do it right.
 

panchothedog

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Yes. They come with a magnetic base. Easy to find a spot on the frame (kart or bike) so you can set the end of the shaft of the indicator against the end of the crankshaft with a little bit of tensions on it. Then grab the crankshaft and push in and then pull out while watching the indicator. You are looking for .005" to
. 015" of movement . Add or delete shims until it's correct. Very easy to do and
once you are done you have the peace of mind that it's right.
 

Hellion

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Let me jump in here and join the group admonishing you for using gasket-from-a-tube.:furious2:

Nope, no way. You could be "messing up your engine" during this critical phase {break-in}, then you're going to finally "do it right" afterwards?
What these guys are saying is you're {likely} out of spec on crank end-play {but who knows?}. This gives off all kinds of warning klaxons, but hell, you're probably just a hobbyist and not kart racing for cash prizes and women...🤪

What happened to the original gasket? Was it shredded after opening the crankcase? That usually happens on older, well broken-in engines but not on new.

Best thing you can do is buy a gasket set and have em ready for these situations.
 

madprofessor

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I'll expand on my statement that it's easier to set endplay with a gasket than with goo. Unless you get lucky, your first measurement of endplay will show some shimming is required. So you take the sidecover off again, being careful with the brand new gasket you just used, and put it back on with the same gasket.
Goo would have required more goo. And more goo in the crankcase too. Gaskets are easier, and as long as you don't get careless you can keep using that same gasket every time until the endplay is right.
Anybody have any negative statements to make about lightly oiling a paper gasket for easier removal? There's two schools of thought on it.
 

Hellion

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Anybody have any negative statements to make about lightly oiling a paper gasket for easier removal? There's two schools of thought on it.

Not at all. That's 'old school' and what the old hot rodder guys used to do to save the gasket and allow multiple part changes.
I think it was done more for accessible things like the carburetor, so they kept taking the carb off and putting it back on for tuning and rejetting.

I think the trick is to use bearing grease as it enhances the seal and stays on better.
 

ShoppingCart

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Let me jump in here and join the group admonishing you for using gasket-from-a-tube.:furious2:

Nope, no way. You could be "messing up your engine" during this critical phase {break-in}, then you're going to finally "do it right" afterwards?
What these guys are saying is you're {likely} out of spec on crank end-play {but who knows?}. This gives off all kinds of warning klaxons, but hell, you're probably just a hobbyist and not kart racing for cash prizes and women...🤪

What happened to the original gasket? Was it shredded after opening the crankcase? That usually happens on older, well broken-in engines but not on new.

Best thing you can do is buy a gasket set and have em ready for these situations.
I'm realizing now it was a bad idea. I busted it trying to remove the gov. I've never busted one before and it seemed like a somewhat good idea at the time. I ordered a dozen so hopefully I'll be good for a while.
 

madprofessor

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With several spare gaskets there shouldn't be any hesitation for you if you want to pop the sidecover off for some little thing down the road, whereas without a spare you might not. If you do find yourself draining oil to get a peek and the oil's still pretty new, I'd advise against a straight up "catch and release" it right back into the motor as many folks do.
Take the time and effort every time you drain the oil to pass all of it through a filter before it lands in your catch container, even a paper coffee filter would do in a pinch. You'll get to see every time what the status is of particulates in your oil, and even if the plan is just to replace some dirty oil outright, that's still something you want to know. Worth the effort every time, clean or dirty.
 

Denny

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You also could have used a empty cereal box to make a new gasket. And it’s more funner to empty the box too. Just trace cover then cut out holes.
 

Denny

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When your just starting out or are poor you gotta do what you gotta do. I’ll be 55 September 7 if I live that long. :thumbsup:
 

madprofessor

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Denny, you must have at least part of an old soul, because physically 55 ain't so old to be. Got about 100 months on you myself.
And I did grow up with less toys than the other kids, that's why my Dad had all those old school po' man's tricks to teach me.
 

Functional Artist

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You also could have used a empty cereal box to make a new gasket. And it’s more funner to empty the box too. Just trace cover then cut out holes.
Or maybe use a new box of cereal ;)
...then, after your done cutting the gasket, return the bag of cereal :devil2:
...& wait for the puzzled faces :popcorn:
 
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