Craigslist Gold (green actually)

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courts94s

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I got a Brister's Stinger X25 for free today on Craigslist!

---------- Post added at 02:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:44 PM ----------


The steering wheel is locked up, so I cut it off. I'll do a whole new steering column. One of the spindles is pretty stiff. Hopefully I can salvage the bracket and spindles. I'll need to weld on a new steering arm thing, that on the spindle. Needs a motor, clutch, chain, brake band, seat..... I think $300 bucks total and a shiny new paint job, and this think will look good! Just trying to desire if I ditch the roll cage or not.


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Flyinhillbilly

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I'd ditch the cage. Without proper belts and protective gear they can do more harm than good. Killer find, I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with it.
 

courts94s

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Ditch the cage.
Cool deal! Much better than the last rust bucket.



I'm pretty much only going to use parts of the rust bucket... spindles, engine plate, some brackets, and weld on pieces. The main chassis is too rusted. It will be turned into a Wheelbarrow/rat rod. Hopefully something cool.

---------- Post added at 06:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:45 PM ----------

Where's Mr Spindles... He's got a way with these things. JK. I'm excited for you. Odd roll cage, so I agree, you should cut it off. Use coca cola to remove the rust.



There's really no rust, other than the steering wheel column being seized with rust. That's all just dirt on it.


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---------- Post added at 06:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:46 PM ----------


I had to cut out the old steering column because it was seized and wouldn't turn. I opted for a zinc coated inner bar. I'd don't have any experience with it, but I assume the coating would protect it from rust.


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---------- Post added at 06:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:49 PM ----------


Outer piece is plaint steel, and the inner one is zinc coated. Hopefully it will last. This is my first experience welding, but it's going okay.


Now it has a new steering column. Next time I will thread the ends of the steering column, so I can add a nut to the top and bottom. This way, if it starts to rust, I can hammer it out, rather than cutting the whole thing off. It's a learn as I go type thing.


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chancer

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They "say" welding that zinc coating causes hazardous fumes. Anyway it is also easier to weld if you grind it off.:thumbsup:
 

Randy H

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They "say" welding that zinc coating causes hazardous fumes. Anyway it is also easier to weld if you grind it off.:thumbsup:

It's no joke. About 25 years ago I was building up a bore on a huge impeller. Braze welding. Had to use a weed burner to keep heat in the thing. Couldn't use a fan either. Anyways by the end of that day I had absorbed enough zinc from the brazing rod that I really thought I was gonna die.

Eyes were black, throwing up, head hurt, body hurt.

Went to ER they said it was metal fume fever. Nothing they could do.

So yeah be careful.
 

courts94s

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They "say" welding that zinc coating causes hazardous fumes. Anyway it is also easier to weld if you grind it off.:thumbsup:

I read that. So, I used a flapper pad to sand off the areas I was going to weld. It's was just a tiny bit at the top and bottom.
 

courts94s

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I finished the "new" steering. I know, they're Harbor Freight wheels. I just pulled them off the dolly, so I could test it, and roll it to the back yard. I don't like how they cross each other on top and bottom, so I'm going to get some 3/8" rod, and make new tie rods.




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Kartorbust

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It's no joke. About 25 years ago I was building up a bore on a huge impeller. Braze welding. Had to use a weed burner to keep heat in the thing. Couldn't use a fan either. Anyways by the end of that day I had absorbed enough zinc from the brazing rod that I really thought I was gonna die.

Eyes were black, throwing up, head hurt, body hurt.

Went to ER they said it was metal fume fever. Nothing they could do.

So yeah be careful.
Glad we have these now for hazardous welding bit expensive but it could save your life or health. https://www.weldingsuppliesfromioc....S7IHxsfnOV3vslCQSD4yoCCTxoCOFzw_wcB#manuspecs

Welding galvanized steel or zinc coated is only unsafe in confined spaces or without proper ventilation or high ceilings. Regardless, nice kart though.
 

courts94s

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chancer

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I believe you actually want those tie rod ends to be crossed.
It creates something called the ackerman effect within the steering system.
Makes the Kart alot easier and more predictable to steer.

I am not 100% sure how or why on that setup. But I have seen it a dozen times here
where guys are instructed to cross the arms on that kart when they ask about steering issues.

---------- Post added at 05:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:59 PM ----------

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=11760
 

courts94s

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I believe you actually want those tie rod ends to be crossed.
It creates something called the ackerman effect within the steering system.
Makes the Kart alot easier and more predictable to steer.

I am not 100% sure how or why on that setup. But I have seen it a dozen times here
where guys are instructed to cross the arms on that kart when they ask about steering issues.

---------- Post added at 05:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:59 PM ----------

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=11760



Good to know!


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courts94s

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Nah, to much reading. 3/8 rod is cheap. I'll just make a new set of tie rods, and try it both ways. Whichever steers better, will be the winner. Also, every picture I see in a google search does NOT have them crossed.


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courts94s

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I agree! Yes just keep the old set up usable.:thumbsup::thumbsup:



I have two other Brister's Thunder Karts, and they were both NOT crossed. I'm doing the "rust bucket" one, with one tie rod between both spindles, then another from the steering column to one spindle. Like a hot rod. Not for any performance reasons. It's all just for "cool points"! Hopefully it looks good and more importantly, hopefully it works.



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Flyinhillbilly

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The Ackerman angle make the inside tire turn sharper than the outside because they have different size circles to make. Ackerman is dependant on wheelbase, scrub radius, and width. There are formulas for it, but on a yard kart as long as the inner tire turns visibly sharper than the outer then you should be fine.
Fwiw, I've been an alignment tech for the last 21 years with the exceptions of a brief stint as a logger, and 6 months following a car crash when I couldn't so much as stand up.

BTW, thank you for your service.

Edit: I forgot that I spent 1 1/2 years working for a custom gunsmith, and three years owning a body shop. So about 15-16 years in the alignment business.
 

courts94s

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The Ackerman angle make the inside tire turn sharper than the outside because they have different size circles to make. Ackerman is dependant on wheelbase, scrub radius, and width. There are formulas for it, but on a yard kart as long as the inner tire turns visibly sharper than the outer then you should be fine.
Fwiw, I've been an alignment tech for the last 21 years with the exceptions of a brief stint as a logger, and 6 months following a car crash when I couldn't so much as stand up.

BTW, thank you for your service.



I'm just gonna turn real sharp and gun it!
I need one of those angle/degree tool things. I'll get one at Harbor Freight to see if they are different degrees with the current setup, and what happens when I go to the non-crossed method.... but it's not for racing or anything. It's really just to knock around the yard a little, then sell it, and work on another one!


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