correct fuel line for Predator 212 3rd generation

Coverfire

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Hey all, I tore the original fuel line on my Predator 212 plus it wasn't long enough to reach my new carburetor anyways and I'm having a hard time finding the correct size replacement line. Is it 5/16ths or 1/4 inch? I'd like to get some transparent red line but at this point anything will do. I need it to connect to a 22mm Mikuni and to the stock fuel tank. What line do you guys recommend? Any links would be helpful.
EDIT: I think I got the right stuff ordered https://www.gopowersports.com/1-4-id-fuel-line/ is this correct?
 
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Karttekk

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PRODUCT DESCRIPTION​

Tygon Fuel and Lubricant Tubing for Petroleum and Petroleum/Alcohol blends. Gas and oil tubing for chain saws, small engines, snowmobiles, mowers etc. Flexible and Resists swelling and brittleness. (Yellow). Temp range 35 degrees below F to 165 degrees F. This is the correct size for the Honda/Clone/Predator carburetors.
 

Coverfire

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Hey, thank you! I ended up with some 1/4 inch that fit the 22mm mikuni perfectly and fit the Predator fuel take close enough to where a zip tie took care of the rest.
 

madprofessor

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I would caution you about trusting zipties in a small diameter application like that, especially where a fuel spill could be a danger. If you wrap a ziptie around something and it uses 40 teeth on the ziptie, the final tightening can be pretty much exactly what you want. When you wrap around something that only uses 10 teeth, the difference from 1 tooth tighter or looser is fully a 10% change in tension.
Pull too hard, it strips the plastic ziptie. Not enough and vibration can walk it right off. Had a fuel line of my own slip off the OEM fuel tank fitting, and was fortunate the engine wasn't hot or running, have seen a fuel fire before.
Now it and every fuel line and pulse line and vent line on that engine has a 1/4" - 5/16" radiator clamp (ring clamp, worm screw clamp, hexhead adjuster toothed clamp, call it however you know It) on it screwed down tight at both ends. Looks industrial, solid, and safe, which it is.
NOTE: I resisted the urge to buy a handful of 1'4" - 1/2" clamps they had right there on the shelf at Home Depot, and instead waited for 2 boxes of 10 clamps of the smaller range to come in from ebay. Had tried the larger range, left a huge ugly tail hanging out, getting in the way in tight spaces.
FYI: My fuel lines are run as fuel tank, shutoff valve, filter, fuel pump, another filter, reducer insert, carburetor. Vent lines from valve cover and fuel tank go to a tee (w/ reducer insert in valve cover vent line), then to an outlet filter. Pulse line from valve cover (correct placement after the flutter valve) to fuel pump. That's 22 clamps. No fear.
 

Coverfire

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I would caution you about trusting zipties in a small diameter application like that, especially where a fuel spill could be a danger. If you wrap a ziptie around something and it uses 40 teeth on the ziptie, the final tightening can be pretty much exactly what you want. When you wrap around something that only uses 10 teeth, the difference from 1 tooth tighter or looser is fully a 10% change in tension.
Pull too hard, it strips the plastic ziptie. Not enough and vibration can walk it right off. Had a fuel line of my own slip off the OEM fuel tank fitting, and was fortunate the engine wasn't hot or running, have seen a fuel fire before.
Now it and every fuel line and pulse line and vent line on that engine has a 1/4" - 5/16" radiator clamp (ring clamp, worm screw clamp, hexhead adjuster toothed clamp, call it however you know It) on it screwed down tight at both ends. Looks industrial, solid, and safe, which it is.
NOTE: I resisted the urge to buy a handful of 1'4" - 1/2" clamps they had right there on the shelf at Home Depot, and instead waited for 2 boxes of 10 clamps of the smaller range to come in from ebay. Had tried the larger range, left a huge ugly tail hanging out, getting in the way in tight spaces.
FYI: My fuel lines are run as fuel tank, shutoff valve, filter, fuel pump, another filter, reducer insert, carburetor. Vent lines from valve cover and fuel tank go to a tee (w/ reducer insert in valve cover vent line), then to an outlet filter. Pulse line from valve cover (correct placement after the flutter valve) to fuel pump. That's 22 clamps. No fear.
Hey, thank you for your response and you're absolutely correct. I found a small amount of fuel dripping from the tank where it it was zipped tied to the fuel line. I'm using it as a temporary solution while I tune the carburetor. I'm going to find a reducer and small enough clamps to do the job properly. Anyway you could send me a link to the ones you bought off Amazon?
 

madprofessor

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Apologies on sizes, typed that wrong. Just looked at my history on ebay (not Amazon) for the clamps, it reads as 1/4' - 5/8" range.
Go to ebay, type in 'amgauge stainless #4', you'll see them pop right up, boxes of 10, at $6.25?, 6-something.
 

Karttekk

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I find those Taiwan "spring" clamps don't seem to have much clamping power anyway.
 

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madprofessor

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Correct, those nonadjustable little spring clamps suck.
For correct size fuel line, #1 I wanted all my lines to be same size, #2 wanted all to be translucent, #3 wanted high flexibility for curves but mostly to stretch over a fat nipple and still slide on snug to most things. The soft vinyl 1/4" was best for me personally. Have some smaller China stuff that can only barely be pushed onto a nipple, and some thicker wall vinyl that's just one-way-only stuff, I like multitask stuff. Also wanted to try to mix red, white, and blue to match color scheme of kart. Unfortunately no white that's translucent, so used clear.
Now all my lines are same 1/4" translucent soft vinyl, the fuel, pulse, vents, all of it. With 22 ring clamps.
 
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