Converter problems!

[Efrain]

Buen dia, disculpen mi ingles, estoy trabajando en un swap de un carro de golf de electrico a gasolina... instale un motor predator 459cc. el cual trabaja estupendamente bien con su gobernador ajustado... usé un convertidor serie 40, además instale una transmision con reversa para motores de 15 hp. la relacion es 1:2 y estoy utilizando el mismo diferencial electrico del carro el cual tiene una relacion 12 :1, usé un eje muerto desde la transmision al engranaje de salida de 32 dientes a uno de 12 dientes al diferencial, para compenzar la perdida de velocidad, ya que la transmision lo reduce a la mitad y así logré sacarle 23 mph. el problema es el siguiente, al arrancar no lo hace suave, sino dando jalones, y si me detengo en una cuesta no muy inclinada, al motor al hacer fuerza, la correa se mete entre los platos y se tranca en el variador secundario. Aumenté la presion del sprint del convertidor y sigue haciendo lo mismo. ya estoy muy decepcionado con esto.. No encuentro a nadie que me ayude.. alguien aqui podria ayudarme? si debo cambiar el diferencial por un de ezgo? o hacer algun cambio? estoy receptivo a ideas y sugerencias. p.d. envio fotos del montaje y de lo que explico aqui sobre el problema.

Good morning, excuse my English, I am working on a swap for a golf cart from electric to gasoline... I installed a 459cc predator engine. which works great with your governor adjusted...used a 40 series converter, also installed a reverse transmission for 15hp motors. the ratio is 1:2 and i am using the same electric differential as the car which has a 12:1 ratio, i used a dead shaft from the transmission to the 32 tooth output gear to a 12 tooth to the differential, to make up for the loss of speed, since the transmission reduces it to half and thus I managed to get 23 mph out of it. The problem is the following, when starting it does not start smoothly, but rather jerks, and if I stop on a hill that is not very steep, when the engine exerts force, the belt gets between the chainrings and gets stuck in the secondary variator. I increased the converter sprint pressure and it still does the same thing. I am already very disappointed with this.. I can't find anyone to help me.. could someone here help me? if I should change the differential for an ezgo? or make any changes? I am receptive to ideas and suggestions. P.S. I send photos of the assembly and what I explain here about the problem.

 

[redflash]

vegas Karts and buggies unlimited are the pros for these golf cart conversions......they can answer your questions.

Da redflash

 

[BaconBitRacing]

First of all… great English! Looks better than some native speakers I’ve seen. Follow Red’s advice, ask them. We also have some TC gurus here. Brownstain is really good with 30 series, not sure how much experience he has with your style but he’s really good. Panchothedog has a few kart with similar parts. I can’t remember his name but one member has a golf kart very similar that works well, but only goes 23ish.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

First of all… great English! Looks better than some native speakers I’ve seen. Follow Red’s advice, ask them. We also have some TC gurus here. Brownstain is really good with 30 series, not sure how much experience he has with your style but he’s really good. Panchothedog has a few kart with similar parts. I can’t remember his name but one member has a golf kart very similar that works well, but only goes 23ish.

@Danger Nooney and @Denny will get him going.

 

[Denny]

Ok the first and possibly only problem you have is you need to flip the drive cvt around and get a reverse wound spring for the driven cvt. Then make sure you use a Genuine Comet Belt of the proper length.

 

[panchothedog]

Efrain. The problem is that your driven clutch is opening up immediately. You can leave the driver clutch alone. It works both ways. On the driven clutch you need a reverse wound spring. That will place the cam points on the front side of the plastic stops. Right now they are on the backside of the plastic stops.
I can see that quite clearly in photo # 1. A kart supply shop, OMB Warehouse sells the reverse wound spring for a 40 series torque converter for about $15.

 

[Denny]

Sorry Pancho but you’re wrong. He is using 40 series cvt. The belt alignment will never be correct unless he turns the driver around.

 

[panchothedog]

Denny. Look at pictures # 1, 4, and 6. He doesn't have an alignment problem.
his problem is that the driven clutch is opening prematurely. Because it ( the driven unit ) isn't orientated correctly. It needs to be flipped 180 degrees, or have the reverse wound spring installed. You state he is using a 40 series torque converter. DO YOU THINK I CAN'T SEE THAT. Where the H else do you think a reverse wound spring would be used. Both driven and driver clutches are symmetrical, they can be used either way. BUT the location of the cam points ( in front of, or behind ) the plastic stops on the driven unit make all the difference in the world. Something you seem to be completely unaware of.

 

[Denny]

I stated he needed the reverse wound spring already! And if you look closer at the pictures you will see that once the clutches are closed all the way he has a major alignment problem! I can’t believe with your experience you can’t see all this! You should know unless you float the driven you need to run the 40 series facing opposite ways!

 

[dustin.s]

Just my two cents, but it does appear that the driven clutch (in pic 6) sets almost a 1/4” toward the engine. It’s difficult to say for sure as pictures are worth a thousand words, but don’t always tell the truth. Is it possible that the belt is not the correct size? Should the belt ever bottom out on the driven clutch? Could a couple washers be thrown in behind the driven clutch to see if it changes the binding? Most of retro fitting is test fitting and adjusting.

 

[Snaker]

Buen dia, disculpen mi ingles, estoy trabajando en un swap de un carro de golf de electrico a gasolina... instale un motor predator 459cc. el cual trabaja estupendamente bien con su gobernador ajustado... usé un convertidor serie 40, además instale una transmision con reversa para motores de 15 hp. la relacion es 1:2 y estoy utilizando el mismo diferencial electrico del carro el cual tiene una relacion 12 :1, usé un eje muerto desde la transmision al engranaje de salida de 32 dientes a uno de 12 dientes al diferencial, para compenzar la perdida de velocidad, ya que la transmision lo reduce a la mitad y así logré sacarle 23 mph. el problema es el siguiente, al arrancar no lo hace suave, sino dando jalones, y si me detengo en una cuesta no muy inclinada, al motor al hacer fuerza, la correa se mete entre los platos y se tranca en el variador secundario. Aumenté la presion del sprint del convertidor y sigue haciendo lo mismo. ya estoy muy decepcionado con esto.. No encuentro a nadie que me ayude.. alguien aqui podria ayudarme? si debo cambiar el diferencial por un de ezgo? o hacer algun cambio? estoy receptivo a ideas y sugerencias. p.d. envio fotos del montaje y de lo que explico aqui sobre el problema.

Good morning, excuse my English, I am working on a swap for a golf cart from electric to gasoline... I installed a 459cc predator engine. which works great with your governor adjusted...used a 40 series converter, also installed a reverse transmission for 15hp motors. the ratio is 1:2 and i am using the same electric differential as the car which has a 12:1 ratio, i used a dead shaft from the transmission to the 32 tooth output gear to a 12 tooth to the differential, to make up for the loss of speed, since the transmission reduces it to half and thus I managed to get 23 mph out of it. The problem is the following, when starting it does not start smoothly, but rather jerks, and if I stop on a hill that is not very steep, when the engine exerts force, the belt gets between the chainrings and gets stuck in the secondary variator. I increased the converter sprint pressure and it still does the same thing. I am already very disappointed with this.. I can't find anyone to help me.. could someone here help me? if I should change the differential for an ezgo? or make any changes? I am receptive to ideas and suggestions. P.S. I send photos of the assembly and what I explain here about the problem.

Always have to follow the Torque Sensing golden rules:
1. The driven pulley movable sheave always has to twist/rotate against the belt rotation during upshift and with belt rotation on downshift.
2. The driven spring has to have a wind so as to tighten as the movable sheave twists/rotates open

With the orientation of the parts that you have, the driven pulley is on the wrong set of ramps.
That is causing the belt to grab the driven pulley moveable sheave and pull it open during upshift when the belt should be slipping against the moveable sheave.

 

[G.W]

I'm just tapping into this o e so I can have some future reference info. I've got an old golf kart I was going to put a 670 V twin on.

 

[Idkw much 👍]

probablemente tienes el muelle al reves, si es eso tendras que darle la vuelta