Converter brass bushing lube?

[ForceFed86]

I know you keep the converters clean and dry without lube for the most part. I am noticing the bushing the belt rides on at idle seems to have some accelerated wear. Would brushing on a tiny amount of dry lube on the shaft the bushing rides on be beneficial? Or are replacement bushings the way to go? I don't know where to source one. This is a 30 series on a 3/4 shaft 6.5 eng.

thanks!

 

[itsid]

I know you keep the converters clean and dry without lube for the most part.....

UHM nope..
clean and "DRY LUBED" would be correct..
the weights are the only parts that need lubrification though,
the driven shaft isn't afraid of some, the rest must remain UNLUBED!

the bushing you talk about is only there to keep the belt at a good height for the driver sheaves to grab onto once the clutch actually engages.
(otherwise it'd sit too low on a 3/4" shaft TC driver)

And that's where you run into an issue.
if you put however little lube onto the bushing,
it will eventually end up on the belt and lastly on the sheaves
and that must not happen.

So, if the bushing is worn out, replace it,
If it makes you feel better,
then use the tiniest amount of graphite powder on your finger tip and spread that inside the bushing, avoiding the edges as good as you can.
but frankly.. I wouldn't!

a TC is robbing you at least 20% of the motor power due to belt slip anyways (best case!)
every bit of unwanted additional slip makes it much worse.
and lubricating something that is meant to get in contact with the belt is asking for such powerloss IMHO

'sid

 

[ForceFed86]

Thanks! I'll stay away from it. The converter appears to have 2 springs in it and no weights that I can see. We drag race to 300ft so not horribly concerned with the power being robbed up top. Could you "roughen" the sheaves to encourage the belt to grab? Or is that slip part of the "magic". Thanks!

 

[itsid]

how can there be no weights?

there must be weights otherwise it'll never work!

No you must NOT roughen up the sheaves, in fact that'd be the exact opposite of helpful!
you want the sheaves to be as smooth as humanly possible
mirror finished polish might be on the excessive side, but still the direction you want

'sid

 

[Dingocat]

The springs are around the weights ForceFed

 

[ForceFed86]

Durp I'm an idiot. Thanks guys! I'll leave it alone! lol.

I'm use to the CVT "fishing weight" style roller weights. I see it now.

I am "drag racing" to 300' or so. The bike is a monster down low spins the tire like crazy then falls flat as the converter is "coupling" i'm guessing and then takes off again. GPS's 52mph but takes ALOT more than 300' to get there! I have a .020 and .036 jetting on stock carb. MOD2 cam and 18lb springs. Header, "intake" and filter.

Would drilling the weights drag the converter "coupling" point out more? I'd like to slip the converter even more as I bog the engine down pretty hard after the initial "launch". If I run more gear (currently 12/65) I feel like I'll spin even worse initially. Think lightening the weights would be beneficial? Do they sell these? or am I on my own? Maybe just drill an 1/8" hole in each?

Running a factory height new tire... Anyone know of a decent slick around the same dimensions? traction is a serious issue. I'd be top of my class I believe if I could get it to "hook up" initially.

thank you!

 

[itsid]

I wouldn't alter the weights at all.. if the end up with an imbalance you'll have a tough time fixing the rattle.

instead find other garter springs and weights
to adjust your take of speed (rpms)

weights come in three 'weights' the stock
zinc weights, aluminium ones, and weight reduced aluminium IIRC
garter springs come in I think eight different colours
So you can retard take of from 1800 right up to 7000 rpm if you so desire
with different weight/spring combinations

check beltpalace.com and search for series 30 garter springs and weights
to see what's available (to my best knowlede they're the only ones with all colours and sizes)

'sid