Constant Tire Rotation

[KLaw]

I just posted an intro ( and I know I haven't contributed to this community - yet. I plan to with before and after pics of the kart i just bought yesterday (first one and i am new at this). First and foremost - I apologize for my ignorance. I did try the search function but I'm not sure I used the right keywords.

I can only start my kart if I got the wheels off of the ground. As soon as I start it the wheels start spinning - not a fast spin but an idle spin. The dude I bought it from just replaced the belt. He replaced it with a comet belt (part number 203590). The crank shaft pulley is 5" and the torque converter pulley is 6.75". The distance between the shafts is 6.75". Why is it constantly engaged?

When its not running there is some slack in the belt - so, I dont believe it is a carb issue. There is good tension on the torque converter spring. Let me try to post some pics. I'd certainly appreciate any help / advice. Thanks.

 

[landuse]

Welcome to the forum. First off, have you tried reducing the idle speed of the engine. If it is idling too high, it might be causing the TC to engage slightly and roll the kart forward.

Are you sure that you have the right belt. Looking at the chart below, you might be needing a 203591 belt. Could you just check it yourself, cos I was in a bit of a rush when i looked

I would also give the TC a bit of TLC. Have a look at THIS thread for some routine maintenance

 

[KLaw]

Welcome to the forum. First off, have you tried reducing the idle speed of the engine. If it is idling too high, it might be causing the TC to engage slightly and roll the kart forward.

Are you sure that you have the right belt. Looking at the chart below, you might be needing a 203591 belt. Could you just check it yourself, cos I was in a bit of a rush when i looked

I would also give the TC a bit of TLC. Have a look at THIS thread for some routine maintenance

Thanks for your help. Im fairly confident it's not an idle issue. I will check out the link u posted. Thanks - again.

 

[KLaw]

I checked out the chart but there is nothing listed for a 6.75" dia torque converter.

 

[landuse]

I checked out the chart but there is nothing listed for a 6.75" dia torque converter.

That threw me a bit too. The only have 6" and 7" diameter driven sizes. Are you sure you measured yours correctly

Here is that pic from this site

http://www.gokartsupply.com/tcbelts.htm

 

[KLaw]

That threw me a bit too. The only have 6" and 7" diameter driven sizes. Are you sure you measured yours correctly

Here is that pic from this site

http://www.gokartsupply.com/tcbelts.htm

Yep - i measured it wrong. It is in deed 6" diameter. Here is what i've done so far. Watched this video

http://www.youtube.com/v/w_0qStxyMfA?autoplay=1&rel=0&enablejsapi=1&playerapiid=ytplayer

and performed the cleaning.At first the puck didn't slide freely all the way through. After lightly sanding the sleeves and slots - now it does. However, I do not have a brass bearing separator as shown in the video. Just a sleeve that is connected to the back plate.

It feels like the belt is just a touch too wide and it is wedged into the clutch.

 

[KLaw]

I finally got the clutch figured out. I just added a spacer to give me about 3/16ths more width and now the clutch can turn freely in the idle state without catching the belt. We had a good 15 minutes of riding it and identified some other issues. Mainly, the steering but I will update that in a later post.

After 15 minutes of riding it quit running and we couldn't get it started back up. I could pour gas directly to the carb and it would start for few a seconds but thats it. So, I've got the carb off and inspected the gas tank and there is plenty of sediment in there. The good new is the interior of the tank is not rusty. I need to clean and rebuild the carb (I have no clue) and get that sediment out of the tank.

I will be able to get most of the sediment out without removing the tank by using a telescopic magnet. My biggest challenge is going to be the carb rebuild / clean. Any suggestions on what kind of carb this is and where to purchase the kit from? Also,any other comments about the above are appreciated. Thanks.

Mods - could you change the title to: "My 1st Kart - Work in Progress"?

 

[firemanjim]

Orielys auto parts carry a new diaphragm kit for the Briggs carbs. Look in the small engine section. It's like $6...... O and that is a stock Briggs carb. With better pics, I could tell you which version you have, or fabroman will spot it and tell you..... He likes briggs.....
EDIT looking at the pics, you need new weights. Those look badly worn, and not evenly. I wonder if they might be getting hung up inside the bell, not releasing all the way..... That back plate on the driver needs major attention or it will eat up belts quickly.....

 

[KLaw]

I appreciate the response. I forgot to mention that I replaced the weights / spring assy ($30) when I added the spacer. Also, cleaned up my backplate on my wirebrush wheel. It cleaned up nicely.

I think I got the carb cleaned but how do I know? My main concern is the lil brass insert with the lil hole that sets in the "bowl" of the tank. All I did was shoot a ****on of carb cleaner in it. Should I try to shove a really fine wire through it as well? That seems risky for damage. Also, can I get the gaskets at orileys as well (carb to the tank)?

Sorry if I sound like such a rookie. Like I said earlier, this is my 1st rodeo, so i really do appreciate any and all feedback.

Thanks.