Comet 30 Driven Unit Stuck on Jackshaft

[akitchell]

New to all of this, so sorry if this is a basic question. I am looking to replace my TC but the driven unit from the comet 30 is stuck on the jackshaft. Is it seized, and if so, any thoughts to remove it? Or, am I missing something that needs to be removed? Note I removed the nut from the driven side, but can't remove the nut from the opposing side. See pictures.

 

[itsid]

everything that needs to be removed (in order to remove the driven) is..

it's seized.. so penetrating oil and patience is the next step.
(acetone and automatic transmission fluid in a volumetric 50/50 mix for example as penetrating oil)

make sure the p.oil can soak into the threads; so have the jackshaft fixed upright

A bit of of gentle heat (~200°C max) and a light tap with a rubber mallet every now and then can help speeding up the process.

'sid

 

[KartFab]

try putting a wrench to the nut and smacking the wrench handle pretty hard to impact it off (if you had an impact wrench it would zip off in 1 second)

If you really want to save the jackshaft, and its seized on really really bad, you could take some 5/8" pipe and use it as a long sleeve over the jackshaft, then use a hammer to tap it off. Ive had to do that once or twice, not sure if thats the ideal way to do it but it works really well.

 

[chancer]

Let common sense Prevail.
Twice this week I have seen the suggestion of Acetone and ATF, Followed by heat, meaning a torch.
Acetone is Highly Flammable! So dont anybody win themselves a Darwin Award here!
Unless of course you catch it on Video for me!

 

[akitchell]

As long as the heat source is not an open flame, shouldn't I be safe given the high ignition temp of acetone?

 

[itsid]

Let common sense Prevail.
Twice this week I have seen the suggestion of Acetone and ATF, Followed by heat, meaning a torch.
Acetone is Highly Flammable! So dont anybody win themselves a Darwin Award here!
Unless of course you catch it on Video for me!

yes common sense..

penetrating oil (acetone ATF mix)
Patience... (i.e. WAITING)
heat (heat =/= open flame or torch btw... heat guns for example.. hence "gentle heat")

more petrating oil.. more patience

But true, if you flush your workshop with a gallon of acetone and you light your torch you'll be up for a Darwin award..
but far from having common sense

if you light the squirt of penetrating oil you'll need for every pass by accident,
you're in for a surprise, but it shouldn't be more dangerous than lighting a candle really

And while I do agree that we all should dial in for safety..
if you get yourself in danger using acetone and heat (agin heat IS NOT the same as an open flame!!) on the same day; you shouldn't use anything that runs on gasoline or electric power anyways

'sid

 

[MrC.]

Mine looked just like that.
mine had a roll pin driven through the bolt on the engine side and the belt side was welded.
I was able to get the shaft out but spent an hour cutting the seized bearing out of the housing.
Note. On mine the two bearing pushed in from either side and the center of that tube housing was solid not a removable spacer so I could not push the bearing out from the far side.
2x on the pb blaster and put a bolt on the shaft and beat it out if you dont have a torch.
MrC

 

[akitchell]

Mine looked just like that.
mine had a roll pin driven through the bolt on the engine side and the belt side was welded.
I was able to get the shaft out but spent an hour cutting the seized bearing out of the housing.
Note. On mine the two bearing pushed in from either side and the center of that tube housing was solid not a removable spacer so I could not push the bearing out from the far side.
2x on the pb blaster and put a bolt on the shaft and beat it out if you dont have a torch.
MrC

Any reason to keep the separate jack shaft? The replacement TCs have it built into the plate. Seems like that would work and then I could eliminate the mounting plate and separate jack shaft all together.

 

[MrC.]

Yours and mine are the "old" version as I understand it. The newer models only have a backing plate, so yes you could ditch the old and buy a new set up, FYI belts are cheaper for your old set up. I was surprised as well MFG has them for 19$ right now.
Its up to you.
MrC.

 

[wabear]

I can still see the retention clip on the 3rd picture. I'll bet it comes off w/ a little wiggle once that clip is removed.

 

[itsid]

I can still see the retention clip on the 3rd picture. I'll bet it comes off w/ a little wiggle once that clip is removed.

that clip holds the cam, spring and sheaves together, it does NOT hold the driven unit on the shaft...

So in order to remove the driven unit from the shaft and if you don't want to reassemble the unit afterwards, that clip needs to stay in place.
(that's why it'S "outside" the key you see in the pic as well )

'sid