Comet 30 driven pulley doesn't articulate

[Bosch]

with the purchase of my new predator engine, I was thinking about replacing the entire torque converter as well. But I have decided to give it a chance at repairs first. I have ordered new buttons (it threw all of them off in one week).

But The main problem is that the driven pully does not articulate like it should. I have removed the cover, put the go kart up on blocks, and run it, & I have observed that the driven pulley does not "change gears", it does not articulate. The belt is more or less stuck in the middle position of the pully, regardless of rpms. This seems like a relatively simple device, so I'm not sure what to do about it, other than disassemble it and clean it. Do these things eventually go bad? Suggestions?

I recorded a simple 10 second vid of this, but haven't uploaded it yet. I'll do thaat after work this evening.

 

[Axx3d]

Normally a good cleaning and lube will remedy a sticky/stuck driven. You wont know about internals until you rip it open.

Simple devices to service and tons of info and directions on the site here...

 

[landuse]

They are relatively easy to clean

 

[Bosch]

http://static1.mfgsupply.com/media/catalog/cms/img/comet/30drivenp.gif


which parts get dry lube? Most PDFs that I have seen online only indicate cleaning components, no lube. Which seems odd to me because moving parts typically like less friction.

 

[itsid]

nothing needs lube! but the only part allowing lube would be the INSIDE of the bushing (and well, the corresponding shaft)
I know the moveable sheave runs OUTSIDE of said bushing, but you mustn't ever get lube on the belt, so there's no point actually.
make sure the sheave runs smoothly on said bushing, if it doesn't clean it more, if it's still not smooth, replace the bushing, or clean it thoroughly and cook it in engine oil for a few minutes, and wipe of any residue, let it sit for some hours, wipe again and install.

if it doesn't articulate, then it's either just a cleaning issue (lack thereof) or you preloaded the spring far too hard (one "valley" is what it takes!)..

'sid

 

[Bosch]

Thanks, Sid.
I will dig into it.

 

[Bosch]

I have it apart, and I have replacement buttons. Two questions:

1. Wire brush and carb cleaner work OK, or is there a better method?
2. Best adhesive to install buttons?

Thanks.

 

[Half-breeder]

1. Yes that'll work.
2. They "should" snap/pop in... shouldn't they?

 

[Bosch]

I got them all in, but I had to use a hammer to drive them home.

AND... the reason it wasn't articulating? The previous owner didn't preload the spring.

 

[Half-breeder]

Yep... that'll do it! Congratulations!

 

[Bosch]

OK, today it's warm enough that I'm installing the driven clutch. Just to be sure, since I've not done this before...

After I mount the sheave on the shaft, I preload the spring by turning the outer sheave face CLOCKWISE about half a turn (one valley) correct?


Basically, I'm asking if this vid is accurate.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kmGY0qsgW4Y

 

[Half-breeder]

OK, today it's warm enough that I'm installing the driven clutch. Just to be sure, since I've not done this before...

After I mount the sheave on the shaft, I preload the spring by turning the outer sheave face CLOCKWISE about half a turn (one valley) correct?

Correct...

Basically, I'm asking if this vid is accurate.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kmGY0qsgW4Y

Well... it's 'my' vid... and I did the exact duplicate process on my Yerf dog, just yesterday to move the setting to #3... I 'may' have gotten the stage #'s backwards for #1 n #3, on the vid... Ill check, but stage #3 has the shortest preload rotation...(reminds me I need to do an update...).

So... IMO, yes, it's accurate... but Im not really one to 'swing my own stick' I used to have a wife and gf that did that for me... (now 'just' a wife) If you are still unsure Im pretty sure reading the comments below the vid (on Youtube) will put you at ease...

 

[Bosch]

Cool, thanks for the vid.