comet 30 clutch issues

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CoachGarbs

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OK I noticed I needed a new button for the driven pulley. So I picked a set up locally. In looking at it further I have a bad feeling something is not right. I do not think I will be able to get the unit off of the jack shaft. I think it is missing a nut that holds the unit on. To make it worse it looks all kinds of messed up. I hope I am wrong and since I am new to this whole thing, I really hope I am wrong.

What should I do? what's the best way to handle this issue?
 

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itsid

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well, if you get the nut off the other side you can still remove the jackshaft,
even if the front is completely mushroomed :D
So that shouldn't be a problem at all.

I see no spring prodruding one of the holes.. show us the spring!

Oh and the sheaves are rusted, you need to remove the rust or you'll eat up your belts really fast (and those are expensive)

Full maintenance will be required I'm afraid.

'sid
 

CoachGarbs

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well, if you get the nut off the other side you can still remove the jackshaft,
even if the front is completely mushroomed :D
So that shouldn't be a problem at all.

I see no spring prodruding one of the holes.. show us the spring!

Oh and the sheaves are rusted, you need to remove the rust or you'll eat up your belts really fast (and those are expensive)

Full maintenance will be required I'm afraid.


'sid
Thank you. So if I remove the jackshaft, I should be able to slide the unit off that way?

Will I be able to see the spring once I remove the belt? I don't have a problem fixing what needs to be done, since it is my sons kart I want it solid and safe.
 

Half-breeder

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From what I see... you 'may' be lookin at getting a new JShaft n probably bearings(just 'my' observation... course I dont always see what others do, due to the angle at which I view things).

Like Sid said if you can get the other nut off should be lil problem getting everything off... ofcourse... if you cant... youll probably be taking a hacksaw to the end and tap it(JShaft) out the other way.

Once you take that C clamp/retainer, everything 'should' slide off(may need alil effort due to the appearance of the rest of the driven unit). after doing maintainence... be sure to preload the spring(after you decide the appropriate hole to set the driven to).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kmGY0qsgW4Y
 

CoachGarbs

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OK, I was able to find time tonight to work on the clutch. Here us what I found.
1. Can't get driven unit off if jack shaft.
2. Jack shaft is in very bad shape.
3. I did take pics of spring
4. Dubious weld job on back of driven unit.
5. Drive unit came right off, the surprise was when I opened it up! A piece of broken hose clamp! Just floating around.
6. Spline hub slides in and out nicely!
7 lots of rust!
8.the engine mount is pretty bent up at the jack shaft weldment.
9. Half breeder was right need new bearings.

My question is
Is anything salvageable?
Pics included
 

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Half-breeder

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W/ alil work you 'may' be able to get the 'driver' unit to work... youll need new springs, clean off rust, remove burrs(just a maybe...). The motor mount is good. The 'Driven' however... needs to be replaced(IMO). I see why you cant get it off and that is horrible that the unit was welded to the shaft!
 

landuse

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You could try wire wheel the rust of all the parts, make sure the springs are straight and that the butons are OK. Then put it back together ans see how it goes.

OOPS....wait. I just saw the rest of the pics. I now agree with gran_pann, the motor mount still looks good :D
 

itsid

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Okay.. clean everything up as good as you can and what ends up looking decent ... put it in a box and set it aside as a spare for the new series 30 TC you buy :D

No honestly, I think you'd need the very least the inner sheave of the driven, the bushing for it,
a spring and a set of buttons.
clean the outer sheave very thoroughly and make it as smooth as possible;
and the driven should be good.

what's the steel tie go to do with the driver??
get rid of it.

the weights look decent, remove the springs and clean them up, make sure they easily slide into each other.
check your springs.. unhook them and see if they are 7 7/8" in length, if they're longer replace them if not refit them to the weights and set this part aside.

clean all the rest as clean and smooth as possible;
make sure that clover centerpice drops right through the moveable sheave on it's own weight without being wobbly.

if you cleaned everything up (perfectly smooth!), and nothing is bent... the driver should be good.
otherwise you need to replace the parts that you're not happy with.

But be warned: that's quite a task you're facing it'll take a while to clean everything and buff it to make it work again.
so be prepared.

you'll find spares at mfg supply
comet 30 parts

driven parts that I think you'll need:
inner sheave
spring
bushing
buttons (2x ??)

and the driver springs just in in case.

roughly $70 plus shipping.

'sid
 

CoachGarbs

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'Sid than you! I showed the steel hose clamp on The drive unit because it was what was I side it when I took it off the kart. I have no idea why someone would put that in there.
I am hoping to get the parts to rebuild what I have so thanks for the links!
 

CoachGarbs

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OK, here is my solution to the driven unit and jackshaft. Is it possible to thread the ends of the jackshaft instead of the collars?

The spring for the driven unit is in hole #1. And blue. This kart will be on the road a little but mostly in grass and a few hills. Should I relocate the spring?
 

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KartFab

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look at the sheaves. are they asymmetrical? take a quick pic if you can.

symmetrical=20 series (both sheaves are slanty)
asymmetrical=30 series (one side is flatish and the other is slanty)-


and no, a 20 series wont work. Just to make things fun and explicitly clear, comet puts a 20 on the driven units.... even if they are 30 series. You can tell by just the sheaves though.... that picture kinda makes both sheaves look 'slanty'
 

itsid

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unfortunately I read 217772A being the older part number.. and that's indeed a series 20 I'm afraid!

So it's the wrong unit you got :(

'sid
 
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