Colored springs ratings on chinese TC..........

[madprofessor]

Want to change springs in my chinese TC for higher stall. Just don't know how different spring colors equate to stall rpm.
TC equates to a Comet 30 asymmetrical, so Comet spring colors might be the guide to follow to the highest stall springs.
Anybody have any answers? Any knowledge would be appreciated.
EDIT: Found the answers, see next post below..............

 

[madprofessor]

Okay, got the answer from OMB Warehouse. Should erase the thread, but leaving it up for others to get the info also............
Trick is to replace the stock 320 grams zinc weights with aluminum 146 grams weights, $28 from OMB. Stock blue garter springs transfer to new weights, will then engage at 3300 rpm. Here's the other colors' rpm engage points on aluminum, $7.50 a pair from OMB:
Black/2100, Orange/2300, Pink/2800, Blue/3300, White/4000, Yellow/4200, BlueSilver/4600.
To save on shipping, I'm getting a pair of springs at same time as weights, just in case the blue/3300 isn't right. Anybody suggest which way to go on a different pair of springs, higher or lower? 520 lbs. kart on 16" tall tires.

 

[ThunderKart79]

The thing to keep in mind is these things work in centrifugal force drag racing snowmobile on grass I learned that heavier drive weights caused the drive clutch to grab the belt harder resulting in less slippage so we were forced to get clever stiffer springs do part of the job but it took a lot off time with a dremel in hand and lots of use out of a bench grinder we also had to spend good money on a accurate digital scale to ensure we didn’t through our clutches off balance this was in the mid 90’s our mentor used a set of tri beams wow I miss the good old days and come to think off it heavier weights would give us higher top end because they would force the belt higher on the clutch

 

[madprofessor]

Been thinking on that, and decided to figure how much I'd need to rpm the motor for a given speed with my new 6:1 ratio (TC not figured into the equation). Tell me if this is going in the right direction..............
16" tall tire has to turn 1,261 rotations to go a mile. 6:1 ratio means motor must turn 7,566 rpm to go a mile. So to go a mile (7,566 rpm) in an hour, or a speed of 1 mph, would be 7,566 rpm divided by 60 mins. = 126 revolutions per minute.
So 126 rpm x however many mph is how many rpm I'd need to turn to get that speed. Example: 126 rpm x 20 mph = 2,520 rpm., or 126 rpm x 35 mph = 4,410 rpm. Seem about right?
So, in the 2,520 rpm example, let's just say that's what rpm the clutch engagement point was, it wouldn't be fully engaged there until I reached 20 mph! That sound right? Seems I'd be burning clutch (and TC belt) until I got to 20 mph in that example. Not a good thing unless I always shot straight from a standstill to 20 mph, no easy cruising in between.
Does having load on it (floorboarded) cause earlier engagement, make it grab sooner?

 

[ThunderKart79]

I think I would try stiff springs and the heavyweights and also stiffen up the spring in the driven clutch as well you can drill extra holes in the helix or turn the clutch to the next set of buttons before pushing the helix down buy making the driven clutch stiffer it essentially makes the system stay in low gear longer I think the stiffest garter springs and tighten the back clutch up and you will be happy with the results another things would be to remove weight from the zinc set as long as you remove the same amount of weight from both sides it won’t through the setup out of balance the aluminum weights are half the weight of the zinc ones if you make the zinc say 200 grams then you are still ahead as far as rotational mass = less slippage at worst you mess up the zinc set and you were going to buy aluminum ones anyway

 

[ThunderKart79]

I would buy yellow and blue/silver springs and I would drill several holes in the helix so you can adjust the driven in small increments there is almost always a sweet spot

 

[madprofessor]

Got some more info from OMB about garter springs, ie; their engagement ratings on the stock Comet zinc weights...............
Black/1400, Orange/1500, Pink/1800, Blue(stock)/2200, White/3100.
I'll go ahead and take that suggestion since it's so simple to do. I'll get that only spring this rating info shows that's stiffer than the stock Blue/2200, that's the White/3100 springs, and stay with the zincs for now. Popping a pair of springs on/off is about the easiest possible thing you can do for performance improvement.
Wonder if I'll have to rent one of those expensive highly specialized tools to do it. What does a screwdriver rent for these days anyway?

 

[ThunderKart79]

I bet with a little research you could find some springs that are stiffer truth be told it doesn’t matter what the springs are maid for if they are the same length end to end and close to the same diameter they will work