Coleman KT196 clutch

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koolaid556

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Hi, new to the forum. So my son has a Coleman kt196 clutch issue. A few months ago he was driving around and once stopped realized the I believe torque converter (if looking at the clutch it’s the smaller rotating part with the springs and weights). So I retighten the bolt, drives around and same thing happens. So I bought a few different series 30 torque converters from Amazon and they all have the same issue. The bolt seems to loosen itself and then the converter wobbles around.

I bought a new converter from Coleman (3x other series 30 converters) and it’s doing it now too. So I am at a loss for what is happening? If anyone has any advice or suggestions please let me know. I used to be a mechanic so I’m mechanical inclined. I’ll post pics of the bolt that’s coming loose.
 
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koolaid556

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Not sure if the pic posted? The red circled bolt on the driven portion of the clutch is the bolt having an issue.
 

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panchothedog

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Here is the fix. Use a bolt that goes all the way to the bottom of the threaded drive shaft. Then cut it about 1/4" shy of bottoming out. Load it up with blue thread lock, and torque it to 25 lb. ft. A strap wrench will probably be necessary to hold the driver from spinning while you are torqueing it down. Let it sit for 24 hrs
so the thread lock has time to dry. It's not going anywhere, and you will be able to remove it when you want. Also, don't forget to rub a little axle grease on the shaft before installing the driver. Two years later she'll slip right off and you won't be beating on things, or need a wheel puller.
 
Hellion

Hellion

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Koolaid556 do you still have your mechanic‘s tools and/or a torque wrench?

Right W.T.R., that "bolt-too-short" theory gave me the willies because that could very well be the issue. Verify that with something (a pencil?) to measure the depth of the bore in the end of the pulley/sheave.

Koolaid is probably good to go being a mechanic (once a mechanic, always a mechanic) but for anyone else without an array of tools, and to keep it simple, try finding a bolt that is the correct length (I agree with it being 1/4” shorter than the depth of the bore) at the hardware store. Chinese quality control can be all over the place so it could very well be something as stupid as a hardware (bolt) issue.

Verify proper thread/bolt length
Blue threadlocker
Lock washer
Torque
 
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koolaid556

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Wow, I wasn’t expecting this many replies.
The bolt I’m using is the factory bolt and I have another I picked up from the hardware store and was an exact match to the factory bolt. I’ll cut the hardware bolt 1/4in and use some blue loc-tight and torque it. I appreciate the responses. Once I’ve done those steps, I’ll let y’all know where I’m at.
 
Grizzlymi

Grizzlymi

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Like Denny said, don't cut the bolt if it is the stock one. We were concerned the bolt you were using was not stock and to long, leaving a gap at the socket head end of the bolt and not torqueing down properly.

Lock washer and blue Loctite should be enough if the bolt isn't bottoming out.
 
Hellion

Hellion

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Oh no, the plot thickens. Long bolt or short bolt? I’m confused now. 🙃

I would say as one more thing, make sure the male and female threads are clean of oil and grease so the threadlocker is as effective as possible
 
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panchothedog

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Man this is simple. Get a bolt that is too long ( most likely 5/16 X 24 X 3" ). With a clean crank bore put everything together. When the bolt bottoms out, measure the distance ( accurately like with a machinest scale ) between the bolt head and the heavy black washer. Now cut the bolt 1/8" to 1/4" shorter. This way you will have maximum thread engagement with out it bottoming out. FWIW, using the method I described in post # 6, I do not use a lock washer. A flat washer between the bolt head and the heavy black washer. Tightening to 25 lb. ft. and the thread locker holds it in place. I have had several drivers come off the crank ( just like you are having ) before going to this method. I run 3 karts and 1 mini bike all with heavily modified small blocks ( 196, 212, and 224 ) engines. I haven't had a driver
come loose since. That is why I started post # 6 saying " here's the fix " because it is.
 
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Jimmyjoe

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Hellion said:
Koolaid556 do you still have your mechanic‘s tools and/or a torque wrench?

Right W.T.R., that "bolt-too-short" theory gave me the willies because that could very well be the issue. Verify that with something (a pencil?) to measure the depth of the bore in the end of the pulley/sheave.

Koolaid is probably good to go being a mechanic (once a mechanic, always a mechanic) but for anyone else without an array of tools, and to keep it simple, try finding a bolt that is the correct length (I agree with it being 1/4” shorter than the depth of the bore) at the hardware store. Chinese quality control can be all over the place so it could very well be something as stupid as a hardware (bolt) issue.

Verify proper thread/bolt length
Blue threadlocker
Lock washer
Torque
Click to expand...
Had that same problem with a 30 series torque converter. Longer bolt and a thicker washer. Can't be that simple but it is and learned that trick on this forum.
 
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