Coleman Go Kart

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natedogg4567

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We got a Colman 196 a couple years ago. After the jackshaft broken we started a motor swap on it. I have sense put a Predator 301 on it and a 40 series torque converter. I am not able to understand what i am doing wrong on this go kart. It has a 60 tooth sprocket on the axle as the driven. And a 10 tooth drive sprocket, attempting to get lower end torque. When we used the original 30 series torque converter it just melted belts.

Now i have a 40 series torque converter (stock drive and red spring on the driven) But on take off, it just pulls the sheeves on the driven pulley apart and locks the belt under the belt stops. Im trying to decide what is happening. In my mind it needs a stiffer spring on the driven pully to resist that and maybe drive pulley weigths to increase the engage speed. Either way i have no idea where to go. Any ideas?
 
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natedogg4567 said:
We got a Colman 196 a couple years ago. After the jackshaft broken we started a motor swap on it. I have sense put a Predator 301 on it and a 40 series torque converter. I am not able to understand what i am doing wrong on this go kart. It has a 60 tooth sprocket on the axle as the driven. And a 10 tooth drive sprocket, attempting to get lower end torque. When we used the original 30 series torque converter it just melted belts.

Now i have a 40 series torque converter (stock drive and red spring on the driven) But on take off, it just pulls the sheeves on the driven pulley apart and locks the belt under the belt stops. Im trying to decide what is happening. In my mind it needs a stiffer spring on the driven pully to resist that and maybe drive pulley weigths to increase the engage speed. Either way i have no idea where to go. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Please post pics.

Seems to be a common problem, with a simple fix. 👍
 
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natedogg4567

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At idle
20230618_171152.jpg

Some gas but not moving yet. I let off so i didnt stick the belt as far down as i did the first couple times. Its further down in then it looks in the picture

20230618_171200.jpg



20230618_171009.jpg20230618_171004.jpg20230618_170950.jpg
 
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natedogg4567

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My son has a small course, more into the drifting game then top speed. So i need some speed but really need more low end torque i wanted a bigger driven sprocket but any bigger it hangs to low and will get banged up. Does it need a jack shaft so i can gear it down some more? Most of it is low speed corners etc.
 
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Denny

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Ok, first thing wrong is you need to flip the driver over. The weights for the driver go next to the engine on a plate style 40 series. The next thing wrong for the secondary you will need a reverse wound spring and the ramps should be on the other side of the shoes (buttons).
Correct those little things and you should be golden! Another thing Use Only Genuine Comet Belts! The cheap Chineseum belts just don’t last and gum up the clutches when they melt.
 
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natedogg4567

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So on the drive pully i need to put the nut side towards the engine. And on the driven pully, i need to order a reverse wound sping and move the buttons from the 3 o'clock position to the 9 o'clock position (roughly)?

Is this correct?
 
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natedogg4567

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Ok. I ordered a reverse wound spring. I ordered yellow. All they had in stock. Is that usable?
So did i install it backwards? Or is this spring setup for a different application?

Ill get it installed and let you know. Thanks so much
 
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natedogg4567

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Is it possible that the same thing is accomplished if i turn the driven pulley 180 degree's? As below. Not sure it accomplishes the same thing as a reverse wound spring20230619_203753.jpg
 
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Do not flip the driven (secondary) clutch around bad things will still happen! We are trying to achieve proper belt alignment. So turn the secondary back around.
 
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natedogg4567

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Yes sir. With the drive pulley flipped around the driven is hanging out in space it appears. I was just trying to limit the amount of stick out and reduce the overall length but i would rather it work the ln be pretty. So i will remake that shaft
 
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natedogg4567

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No there is no spacer. The crank has a step up to about 1.25 and thats what it is up against. I want to see if i flipping the torque converter mounting plate around is close to the right length. But my luck, probably not. Have a mill and lathe so not a big deal but i would love something to just fit lol

Edited cause i couldnt type the first time i guess.
 
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Denny

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Ok no biggie, you just may have to shim out the driven a little. Hard to see how much with your pipe in the way though. I do not like how close the pipe is to the belt!
 
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natedogg4567

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I dont either. I will be changing that or wrapping it or something. I can see that belt getting melted from the heat pretty quickly. I will get the drive all figured out and then address that pipe. Probably should have just got a 6" but bigger is all ways better so had to go with 7".
 
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