Coil bind????

[fowler]

It is on TDC at the end of the exhaust

As I said the best place to set lash is between compression and ignition

This is how we do valve lash on 16 cylinder engines

U set it to TDC #1 then find with valves u can do by with are which rockers are raised
Rather than finding TDC 16 times u only need TDC #1 compression and tdc#1 exhaust

If both rockers are fully raised its on the correct stroke

Alternately u can set intake valve on exhaust stroke
And exhaust valve on intake

 

[Poboy kartman]

It is on TDC at the end of the exhaust

As I said the best place to set lash is between compression and ignition

This is how we do valve lash on 16 cylinder engines

U set it to TDC #1 then find with valves u can do by with are which rockers are raised
Rather than finding TDC 16 times u only need TDC #1 compression and tdc#1 exhaust

If both rockers are fully raised its on the correct stroke

Alternately u can set intake valve on exhaust stroke
And exhaust valve on intake

Ummmm.....just no....you're only confusing the issue here.....we don't have 16 cylinders.....with all due respect....you AREN'T helping.....please....I think he knows what to do now.....if you want to defend your posts....PM me....

 

[Kart Simpson]

Well you guys did it. I reset the valve lash correctly this time and it fired right up. However it doesn't like it when I give it to much throttle. It just dies down when I do. Its sputtery and shoots a blue flame out the exhaust sometimes. But holy crapnoid, the thing seems like a monster. Sounds real nice but obviously now needs adjusting im guessing. To recap...

Harbor Freight Predator 6.5 w/ Hemi head.....

Removed governor
Removed low oil sensor
Billet conrod
.035 main jet
.022 pilot jet
High flow air intake
High flow exhaust
18# valve springs (not binding)
Billet flywheel (not installed yet)
Mod 2 cam (not installed yet)
Currently running stock flywheel
Currently running stock cam

 

[Poboy kartman]

I wouldn't worry too much about trying to tune it just yet....now that you know what to do....install the new cam....making sure you are at TDC of course and the new flywheel.....and reset the lash correctly again.....and then we can address the carb jetting....(if necessary) ......

Glad you got it running....it's what we're here for.....even though sometimes it seems like we're being rude...at the end of the day......we're just trying to help as best we can......

 

[Kart Simpson]

I ordered the new cam a couple days ago. It should be here Monday. I already have the billet flywheel. I should have them both installed by Wednesday. I will reset lash and keep you's posted. For the short time I have joined this forum, you guys have taught me a lot. I also learned that when people give you advise and options to try to help your isuues, it is common courtesy to let them know if you have tried them. Point well taken. I would not have known about the valve lash being my main problem and with the help I received here I am sure I saved some money because I probably would have needed to pay someone to help me. Can't wait to get final parts in and get her purring like a pissed off lion. At least I get to hear it now and WOW, I have a little beast on my hands. It sounds mean and is very very snappy with just a quick little throttle. If given to much, thats when it dies down. But like you said, thats another day. Thank you to all with the help. I am very happy today!

 

[Kart Simpson]

I wouldn't worry too much about trying to tune it just yet....now that you know what to do....install the new cam....making sure you are at TDC of course and the new flywheel.....and reset the lash correctly again.....and then we can address the carb jetting....(if necessary) ......

Glad you got it running....it's what we're here for.....even though sometimes it seems like we're being rude...at the end of the day......we're just trying to help as best we can......

When you say "making sure you are at TDC", you just mean make sure that the 2 dots on cam and crank are aligned,,, correct?

 

[Poboy kartman]

When you say "making sure you are at TDC", you just mean make sure that the 2 dots on cam and crank are aligned,,, correct?

No....I mean making sure the piston is all the way up when you align the dots.....

 

[fowler]

Thats irenivent

The cam is driven off the crank
The dot is on the crank

Step 1 spin crank to get dot in aprox the right spot
Step 2 insert cam but dont mesh gears
Step 3 spin cam to get dot in aprix the right spot
Step 4 mesh crank and cam ensuring dots line up

Its irenivent at what point the cam or crank is at in their revolution

Not with these engies anyhow

 

[Poboy kartman]

I guess I'll have to crack open an engine and see.....but I'm 99% sure I aligned the dots when I assembled my Tecumseh.....I'm 99% sure it was timed incorrectly.....and 100% sure since cracking it back open and clocking it with the piston at TDC......it now runs......

 

[Badot]

Dots match on the crankshaft and camshaft, simple as that. If the dots match, it's timed correctly assuming nothing has been fudged internally.

For setting valve lash, it doesn't matter where the crank/cams are so long as there's no cam engagement. TDC compression stroke is just an easy way to find that point.

 

[Kart Simpson]

I guess I'll have to crack open an engine and see.....but I'm 99% sure I aligned the dots when I assembled my Tecumseh.....I'm 99% sure it was timed incorrectly.....and 100% sure since cracking it back open and clocking it with the piston at TDC......it now runs......

This is what I will be looking at but with a Mod 2 cam. he gets to the point at 2:00 into the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eoUI5ejNNoU

So I just need to make sure the dots are lined up, right?

 

[Poboy kartman]

Thats irenivent

The cam is driven off the crank
The dot is on the crank

Step 1 spin crank to get dot in aprox the right spot
Step 2 insert cam but dont mesh gears
Step 3 spin cam to get dot in aprix the right spot
Step 4 mesh crank and cam ensuring dots line up

Its irenivent at what point the cam or crank is at in their revolution

Not with these engies anyhow

It appears you are correct.....I cracked open a 2hp Briggs flatty....just to play with....and those marks can only line up one way.....

So something else happened on that Tecumseh build....I do remember jacking around with the govenor....obviously....somewhere along the way...the cam got moved....and was no longer still on the same teeth it was when I first dropped it in....at the time I did this...it was my belief that all you had to do was line up the dots.....when the engine was finished....and obviously miss-timed....I started looking for answers....and came across the TDC thing....so I figured that must have been the problem.....apparently.....not.....

Funny thing is.....this Briggs is nowhere near TDC when the marks line up.....so....I stand corrected.....it just so happens that when the crank and cam dots line up on these engines...it's at TDC.....probably to make assembly easier as it's already in position for valve lash set.....(not a concern on a Briggs flatty).....

 

[Kart Simpson]

Okay. Gonna be an easy job installing the mod 2 cam and billet flywheel. Hopefully will have it done sooner than Wednesday. Do you think that the new cam will help with my current sputtering and ocasional blue flame out of the exhaust issues? I know that the lobes on the mod 2 cam are the same height as stock but are wider which I assume will result in the valves staying open a bit longer. Or is it gonna be carb issues?

 

[Poboy kartman]

We'll just have to see....with more duration....(valves staying open longer)....and advanced timing....(spark occurring sooner)....both mean more time for the fuel to burn.....flaming out the exhaust means unburned fuel....and the sputtering could mean it's jetted rich.....

So....at any rate....the cam and flywheel will change the dynamics of the engine....just as adding the new parts did.....it may purr like a kitten and roar like a lion......if not....we can figure it out then......

 

[Kart Simpson]

Sounds good. Makes sense to me. I will advise on this thread when new parts are in. Thank you.

 

[fowler]

If your collection of tools isnt huge Id right now attempt to remove the flywheel

They can be a bit of a bastard

Undo the flywheel nut

Turn the engine on its side so the fly whhel faces up
Obviously drain all fluids previous

Then u can spray some penatrene or crc or what ever u guy have to combat corrosion
They let it sit in that position and keep spraying it every 12hrs or so

Hopefully the crc soaks in and by the time the new parts arive it just pops right off

 

[Xtreme Yard Karts]

If your collection of tools isnt huge Id right now attempt to remove the flywheel

They can be a bit of a bastard

Undo the flywheel nut

Turn the engine on its side so the fly whhel faces up
Obviously drain all fluids previous

Then u can spray some penatrene or crc or what ever u guy have to combat corrosion
They let it sit in that position and keep spraying it every 12hrs or so

Hopefully the crc soaks in and by the time the new parts arive it just pops right off

I think he's already had the billet one on there, but put the stock one back on in an attempt to get it running.

You're right though, they can be a PITA to get off if they've been on there a while!

 

[Kart Simpson]

I think he's already had the billet one on there, but put the stock one back on in an attempt to get it running.

You're right though, they can be a PITA to get off if they've been on there a while!

Correct. I did already have billet one on. Removing flywheel wont be a problem. Good advise tho. New cam and Hemi valve springs should be here sometime today. Dont seem to be getting coil bind now but these new springs I ordered are made for the Hemi head Predator so I guess I should use them to be on the safer side of things.

 

[Kart Simpson]

Oh wow! New parts just got delivered nice and early. TO THE GARAGE!!!!

 

[Kart Simpson]

ok, all parts are in. Fired up pretty easily. Ended up stalling and does not fire up again. Seems if I let it sit for a long time then it will fire up again. As I try to fire it up again right after it stalling I get backfire thru exhaust (That was the issue before these recent parts also) and this last time I also got a huge backfire thru the carb with smoke bellowing out the air filter. Seems like I am getting to much gas?? There is no sputtering when it is running, just when I try to restart it. Huge difference in the 18# springs I had in there before and the 18# springs I just installed. Why such a big difference?? On the right is what I had in there, on the left is what I just installed. The yellow card is what came with the new cam. So here is an updated list of mods:

Harbor Freight Predator 6.5 w/ Hemi head.....

Removed governor
Removed low oil sensor
Billet conrod
GX-140 emulsion tube (forgot to mention that earlier)
.035 main jet
.022 pilot jet (I drilled out the stock one)
High flow air intake
High flow exhaust
18# valve springs (made for the Hemi head)
Billet flywheel (8* timing advance - 32* BTDC) (I don't know what that means but you all do)
Dyno Mod 2 cam

I also got a new head gasket made for the Hemi head. Didn't have a new one to put on after the rebuild but it was a new engine so I reused the old one. The new one is copper. When I ordered it I had 2 choices of thickness. 0.16 & .032 I got the .016. Should I install it or wait till the stock one starts to leak.

The flywheel don't say anything about the 8* on it, but it says 32* btdc stamped into it. When I ordered it the description on it said 8* advanced timing built into keyway