Clutch or Torque Converter?

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ironbutt

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Okay, I've got a 79cc Motovox MBX10 that I picked up at Sears for $199.

Just picked up the 212cc Predator from Harbor Freight to upgrade the motor.

Now, the big question is: Buy a clutch for it or go all in on a torque converter?

I'm not really a gear head and not looking to drag race or do tricks with this bike. Just looking for reliability for a bike to go on the trails around my campsite this summer.
 

Imthegrt1

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Well what's your budget?
What's your weight?
Always easy to go simple with a clutch.
If that frame don't have the dual motor mount holes you will need the adaptor plate or will have to redrill the bolt holes.
 

ironbutt

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What are the tooth count on the rear axle sprocket and the rear wheel tire diameter?

The specs show:
- 75 Tooth #35 Chain Rear Wheel Sprocket
- 14.5 x 7-6 Off-Road Tires

---------- Post added at 09:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:43 AM ----------

Well what's your budget?
What's your weight?
Always easy to go simple with a clutch.
If that frame don't have the dual motor mount holes you will need the adaptor plate or will have to redrill the bolt holes.

Well, I just want it up and running now...especially after being up to ~$350 for the purchase of the bike and the new motor.

I'd say, a good clutch for under $50 to get it running for the summer is ideal, but then if performance and durability become an issue, upgrading to a torgue converter this winter.

My concern is that I see alot of reviews and experiences posted online of people burning out their clutches after just a couple days and having then purchased new clutches 2, 3 even 4 times before finally switching over to a torgue converter.
 

Imthegrt1

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Well from experience I'm about 200 lbs and have only burn one clutch up 15 years.now most my riding has been pavement and std gearing.hope that helps


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Poboy kartman

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The one last piece of the puzzle is how far apart the tooth centers are ...because, you should be good to go with a 12 tooth $20 centrifugal clutch...

My only concern is that a #35 will match your sprocket. But if the information provided is indeed accurate...you can get a 12 tooth #35 centrifugal clutch , 3/4" bore from GoPowersports for about $20...

Be sure and use the DIYGOKARTS code for an extra 10% off.
 

ironbutt

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The one last piece of the puzzle is how far apart the tooth centers are ...because, you should be good to go with a 12 tooth $20 centrifugal clutch...

My only concern is that a #35 will match your sprocket. But if the information provided is indeed accurate...you can get a 12 tooth #35 centrifugal clutch , 3/4" bore from GoPowersports for about $20...

Be sure and use the DIYGOKARTS code for an extra 10% off.

This looks like it:

http://www.gopowersports.com/centrifugal-clutch-3-4-bore-35-4335-am/

Placing my order and the code now.

Thanks!
 

Poboy kartman

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I have a 6.5 hp briggs with 1" shaft 18" tires I cant seem to keep from burn the clutch up. plenty of speed once it gets going. has 60t axle sprocket #40 c:mad2:hain

I'm sorry didn't mean to butt in on last conversation

No problem. It's what we do here...lol...

"60 tooth axle sprocket "....Lot of difference between that and 75 tooth...how many teeth on the clutch? (You can have fewer with a #40, 12 is the normal minimum for #35...(although you can get 10....never mind...don't want to open THAT can of worms!)

But it's ALL relevant...and important for whether a clutch can have a long and healthy life...or short tragic one. (Weight, gear ratio, rear tire size, and vehicle useage.)

Edit: OOPS...just noticed the 1" shaft! That kinda puts you in the #35 neighborhood with a 3/4" engine shaft!
 

bob58o

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What I just found out is a #41 72T sprocket is not a "go kart standard" (none to fit my hub) Like $85 I think for a single piece.
 
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