Clutch not engaging

WadamMomo

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Okay so update on my clutch problems, I've ordered a 30 series torque converter that has a 12 tooth sprocket using a 35 pitch.

I'm going to order a 76 tooth sprocket from a website called kartstore.uk which also uses a 35 pitch.

This will give me a gear ratio of 6.3:1 which is much much better than my 2.9:1.

Thank you for your help and I'll update you once I've got it driving
 

bob58o

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Did you tell us how tall the tires are?
Honestly you should be ok unless you got some big 22” tires or something… If they are really small like 10” diameter rubber you might be doing burnouts and seek for faster top speed in the future… if the bottom end acceleration is good, but want more top speed in the future, you can tune the little sprocket. 13T, 14T, 15T (depending on tire size)

I think you’ll like the 30 series.

The belts that come with some kits are cheap. They do require replacing every so often.

We like to recommend genuine Comet brand belts. But a decent belt should be ok even if not made by Comet. I believe kevlar belts are strong and I look for that if not getting Comet. $25-$40 per belt shipped is not unheard of. Cheap belts might be 3 for $25. I like having a good belt and some cheap ones I can use in an emergency (think extras for long trips).
 
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WadamMomo

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Did you tell us how tall the tires are?
Honestly you should be ok unless you got some big 22” tires or something… If they are really small like 10” diameter rubber you might be doing burnouts and seek for faster top speed in the future… if the bottom end acceleration is good, but want more top speed in the future, you can tune the little sprocket. 13T, 14T, 15T (depending on tire size)

I think you’ll like the 30 series.

The belts that come with some kits are cheap. They do require replacing every so often.

We like to recommend genuine Comet brand belts. But a decent belt should be ok even if not made by Comet. I believe Kevlar belts are strong and I look for that if not getting Comet.
I've not measure my tires yet but they're standard racing kart wheels with wet tires so I can't imagine they'll be huge, and I am planning to buy a larger front sprocket to switch out when I'm wanting to put it to its limits.

As for now I'd love to do some cheeky burnouts and get some skids in.

I'll measure the tires once I'm home and I'll let you know
 

bob58o

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I've not measure my tires yet but they're standard racing kart wheels with wet tires so I can't imagine they'll be huge, and I am planning to buy a larger front sprocket to switch out when I'm wanting to put it to its limits.

As for now I'd love to do some cheeky burnouts and get some skids in.

I'll measure the tires once I'm home and I'll let you know
Perfect… have fun. And be ready to lift the engine an inch or so like I mentioned … if the backing plate for the driven unit will contact the kart frame.

Most people mount the backing plate so it’s angled towards 4:30 on the clock when looking at the crankshaft output. On 212 CC’s this puts the bottom of the plate lower than the plane of the engine mount. Not sure the fitment in 240ccimage.jpg
 

WadamMomo

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Perfect… have fun. And be ready to lift the engine an inch or so like I mentioned … if the backing plate for the driven unit will contact the kart frame.

Most people mount the backing plate so it’s angled towards 4:30 on the clock when looking at the crankshaft output. On 212 CC’s this puts the bottom of the plate lower than the plane of the engine mount. Not sure the fitment in 240ccView attachment 149753
My chassis is completely custom and there's a lot of clearance for the engine so I should be fine but thank you for the warning.

I'm genuinely so excited almost a year of learning metal fab and design and I'll finally be able to drive it.
 

WadamMomo

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Hello again everyone, new problem has arisen.
So I have bought a torque converter which I found online

However it's become apparent that my kart is extremely small and I would have to mount it backwards which I've seen being done on other karts.

However to mount it backwards I may need to remove the secondary oil fill.

My idea was to swap the dipstick into the rear oil fill and cut off as much as I need off the front. I could then put a bolt through and seal it as best as I can.

Has this been done before and is it a common thing? Is there anything I need to know before doing it?
 

panchothedog

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You can just leave it screwed in. Also no problem in moving the dipstick to the other side of the engine. Both are at the same height and angle.
 
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