Clutch Help!
- Thread starter dkang7676
- Start date
Rat
Well-known member
Judging by the pic, you have to much shaft for that Comet30 style shaft cap. Idk WTH it's actually called but on a Comet 30 it keeps the clutch and clutch cover on the shaft with the end bolt through it.
Your pic makes it obvious (to me at least) that you've either mixed up parts from two systems or lost something important. It's also obvious your key is missing because your keyway is not aligned.
These parts will not mesh as they are currently. You either need a different end cap (assuming such exsists), or to space the clutch further out so that the shaft is not flush with the clutch hub face.
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Rat
Well-known member
I wouldn't return the engine, but more pics of the assembly would be helpful to figure out the best way to get the spacing needed.
My first thought is you're missing some sort of shaft spacer that goes behind the clutch hub assembly.
My next was maybe the lifan has a shorter PTO shaft.
Which was followed by maybe there's a spacer stuck on the lifan that you thought was just part if the PTO cover
Rat
Well-known member
It's not specifically a No Go, but you may need to think outside of everyone else's list of methods for an answer
Rat
Well-known member
Which chain? Pics? Pretty much always a tension and alignment issue
Hah…so I put that silver spacer on the wrong side of the sprocket
….once I took the chain guard off I could clearly see the sprocket and the axle sprocket wasn’t in alignment. Now, if I can only get it to start…brand new gas, new oil, both motor and wet clutch.
….once I took the chain guard off I could clearly see the sprocket and the axle sprocket wasn’t in alignment. Now, if I can only get it to start…brand new gas, new oil, both motor and wet clutch. Attachments
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Rat
Well-known member
Please don't
As for fresh engine, and fresh oil... don't be surprised if it refuses to start up right away.
That's completely normal and after the first hour running it will start a lot easier. That is also when you want to make sure nothing has started to loosen.
The first 5 hours on a fresh engine meant to last are the most critical to check all torque values after it's gone cold because that when it's most probable to have something loosen up from thermal expansion. It is imperative if you want the engine to last that you don't flog the throttle and absolutely do not engine brake to slow down
If it doesn't have a magnetic drain plug, get one and change the oil after the first 5hrs... it will come out metallic charcoal in color, which is again normal for a fresh engine being ran in. After another 5hrs running change the oil again, it should be quite a bit more brown than black and will likely still have a lot of shimmer to it. After that second oil change things should be ran in enough to be a bit more aggressive but you should still avoid long hard runs against the governor assuming it's not bypassed or removed
Rat
Well-known member
Rat
Well-known member
Coil air gap, any non corrugated paperboard soda/beer carton, cereal/crackerbox (same stuff you'd want for a quick gasket in a pinch)
Loosen the coil, slide the paperboard in-between the flywheel and coil, push the coil against it to the flywheel and tighten the coil back.
Spark plug use a gap tool and set to 0.28
Loosen the coil, slide the paperboard in-between the flywheel and coil, push the coil against it to the flywheel and tighten the coil back.
Spark plug use a gap tool and set to 0.28
Rat
Well-known member
Also depending on how much yanking you've done with the choke on you've probably flooded it. If you've hit the primer more that it takes to get the first three squirts in there, it's definitely flooded
Rat
Well-known member
Air gap
Plug gap
Make sure it's sparking
Being brand new is no reason to think any part of the ignition system isn't bad especially if the stock spark cap is a resistor cap
