Clone 40 series TC belt issues

jerjer

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I just converted a yerfdog from gy6 to duromax 18hp. Gearing is 10teeth on driven pulley, 60 teeth on axle.

Converter shutters badly when initially accelerating, and often the belt bottoms out and gets stuck in the driven pulley. I tore apart the drive pulley and dry lubricated it, and that seemed to help a little with the jerky drive engagement, but it's still very jerky and I have to really baby it when accelerating the belt jumps off or bottoms out on the driven pulley.

Also, brand new TC and belt.

Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Possom Point

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Hey jerjer have you had any luck with this TC setup? I bought the same one from eBay and am having some serious issues with mine to. The TC is engaged when I start my Dingo and take off. I put the yellow reverse wound spring and the 2600 rpm stall weight and springs in it and still having the same problem. Belt number is 203785 that came with my kit. I also turned the driver around.
 

Snaker

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So hard to tell from these pictures.
Presume that front is to left?
Presume that the belt top is going right to left?
That driven pulley is configured wrong, the movable sheave should rotate (spiral ) against the belt direction. Should be on the other ramps.
The contra spring should be winding tighter while the sheave rotates/opens. Cant tell from the photo if its right.
 

Smerft85

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Driver pulley is definitely installed backwards and is likely most of your issue, hard to tell if it's a 30 or 40 series, but I'm guessing it's a 30 series based on the backplate you have installed and a 30 series isn't rated for that much power. Turn the driver pulley around and see if it lines up and functions properly, it should from what I can see.
 

Possom Point

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I’m going to assume that Duramax has a 1” shaft, and I believe he has a 40 series setup on his go kart. That particular “new “ China 40 series I’ve been seeing lately has the driver opposite of normal operation compared to a Comet torque converter.
 

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my 40 series setup notice orientation of driver clutch, it does not work with the driver in normal position, this particular setup requires the clutch to run opposite. I have fought this for over a week trying to get it to run correctly. yellow driven spring high stall weights and springs and longer belt. I switched the original comet clutch with new driven. the CVT engages at idle, meaning as soon as I start the engine the kart takes off
 

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The first and second picture has the spacer in between the shaft and driver. First pic you can’t see because of the lip of the aluminum plate. I suppose I could put a longer spacer but then there would be very very little of the key in the key way on the shaft. That seems like it would be a catastrophic Cataclysm.
 
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