JimD
Well-known member
Little education on the Coleman engine 5/8" many of them are NOT 5/8" (.625 OD) but in fact they are 16mm (which is .629) . That means they are .004 bigger than the bore of a Max-Torque clutch. Yes, you can get them on with the magic hammer but than how the heck can you get them off. What to do when you have that problem? Just start the engine and run a file back and forth to take it down and few thousands and then hold some 80 grit emery paper on the crank for a smooth finish. You want the clutch to be able to slide back and forth with ease. The other thing for those that have never read the "donut" on the clutch--don't use set screws to hold the clutch on but ONLY use them if the crankshaft isn't drilled and tapped. You want to always use a bolt and washer to hold the clutch in place and you want the clutch to be able to moved on the crankshaft so it can self align with the rear sprocket which NEVER runs true. The big sprocket (the one on the axle) will dictate where the small sprocket is on the crankshaft. Out clutch is made shorter than a crankshaft just so it can float. Typical crank is 2.297" long and the clutch is 2.220 long. That means there is .070 of float --leave it alone and don't put washers on the crank to take up the play it is suppose to be there.