Check out new build - Stretched big block

[2SlickNick]

Great job!!! Now enjoy!

 

[Lyon76]

nice and clean

 

[rockman96]

Detail of chain tensioner: Not a lot of options because of the layout, but it works.

 

[OzFab]

1. Why do you need a chain tensioner? Is the jackshaft not adjustable?
2. Are you sure the spring is strong enough?
3. It's on the wrong side, a tensioner should be mounted on the return side, not the power side...

 

[Hambone]

Looks like the tensioner is good to me...

Is there a bearing on the tensioner sprocket? I hope it's not a bushing..

 

[machinist@large]

1. Why do you need a chain tensioner? Is the jackshaft not adjustable?
2. Are you sure the spring is strong enough?

Good questions, but minor.

3. It's on the wrong side, a tensioner should be mounted on the return side, not the power side...

Fab, look again. It is mounted on the return side. If nothing else, check out the pull start for reference. And if you reread his build, the J/S and motor positions were kind of determined by the rather massive increase in the size of the motor.

While I can agree that the spring is questionable, and the rest of the tensioner looks kind of spindly, the overall build looks pretty good.

 

[rockman96]

1. Why do you need a chain tensioner? Is the jackshaft not adjustable?
2. Are you sure the spring is strong enough?
3. It's on the wrong side, a tensioner should be mounted on the return side, not the power side...

1) Weren't you the one who had so much trouble keeping your motor anchored tight and straight? Rubber pads, etc?
Nothing is adjustable on this drive train, it's all solid mount and threaded bolt holes. With 16hp and a 250lb payload, I don't want things moving around, and I don't want to have to screw with it.

2) It probably has 8 or 10 lbs of pressure on it. FYI, you don't need a huge amount of tension on a tensioner. All it is doing is controlling the back slack in the chain... The engine/load is keeping the power side tight.
Nothing is scrubbing or scraping when I stab or cut the throttle, so it's doing it's job.

3) The tensioner is on the correct side.


To address the idler concern... Don't worry, the sprocket has a bearing. I used no bushings on this kart... Even the steering column, and foot controls have bearings, lol. (Overkill I know, but WTH)

 

[rockman96]

While I can agree that the spring is questionable, and the rest of the tensioner looks kind of spindly, the overall build looks pretty good.

I guess we'll see how it holds up. It isn't as "spindly" as it looks in the pics... It's made from 1-1/8" x 1/4" steel with a 5/8" idler shaft.

 

[MancoGX390]

Where did you get those tyres and wheels from? I'm looking for a new set exactly like that for my Manco Dingo to replace the 21 inch spuddy's ive got on it now

 

[rockman96]

Northern

 

[OzFab]

Fab, look again. It is mounted on the return side.

3) The tensioner is on the correct side.

So it is, my bad; forgive me, I've been a bit "off" the last few days, head cold...

1) Weren't you the one who had so much trouble keeping your motor anchored tight and straight? Rubber pads, etc?

Ok, it was a simple question, no need to get narky...

Nothing is adjustable on this drive train, it's all solid mount and threaded bolt holes.

OK, thankyou...

 

[rockman96]

Ok, it was a simple question, no need to get narky...

Lol, Narky... I don't hear that word often. My apologies, I honestly didn't mean it in that context, although it did sound that way when I re-read it.
I was actually in the motor mount stage of the build when I read about the issues you ran into with the rubber pad and all, hence my decision to make everything solid with no adjustment. NTM 16hp will shake things apart rather quickly, or at the very least cause them to move or shift.