Cheap Chinese TC? / A lesson in rushing purchases.

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Whitetrashrocker

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Engine off. Look down the throat of the carb. Does the throttle pedal open the butterfly all the way?
Your gearing is good and the cvt acts like its doing its thing when not under load
The driver unit isn't closing like it should under power though.
 

Squiddy202

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Engine off. Look down the throat of the carb. Does the throttle pedal open the butterfly all the way?
Your gearing is good and the cvt acts like its doing its thing when not under load
The driver unit isn't closing like it should under power though.
How do I go in? Through the air filter? Where do I see the butterfly?
 

Whitetrashrocker

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You still have the governor hooked up correct?
If you do then that advice won't work.
The pedal and the throttle plate in the carb are not directly linked.
If I remember your throttle linkage is all stock. Look up how to bypass the governor and try that.
Take a picture and remember how it went so you can put it back.
Running with the governor bypassed but with the internal parts still inside is waiting to be a grenade.
For a test you will be fine.
You can also try to use a wire or something to physically open the butterfly from the top side of the carb on the linkage.

Its dangerous but can you reach back and move it by hand while driving.
 

Squiddy202

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You still have the governor hooked up correct?
If you do then that advice won't work.
The pedal and the throttle plate in the carb are not directly linked.
If I remember your throttle linkage is all stock. Look up how to bypass the governor and try that.
Take a picture and remember how it went so you can put it back.
Running with the governor bypassed but with the internal parts still inside is waiting to be a grenade.
For a test you will be fine.
You can also try to use a wire or something to physically open the butterfly from the top side of the carb on the linkage.

Its dangerous but can you reach back and move it by hand while driving.
Sounds good but if it blows up on the test you owe me a new engine. :roflol:
 

Whitetrashrocker

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Sounds like you need to go to harbor freight and get a coupon from hellion for a $119 212.

I dont see any reason your not zooming around at 40mph with that set up.
 

Squiddy202

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Sounds like you need to go to harbor freight and get a coupon from hellion for a $119 212.

I dont see any reason your not zooming around at 40mph with that set up.
Man easy for you to say I don’t have a job yet. When I checked in on a pizza place guy that was supposed to call me he just said I’ll call you. Let’s see how that goes next week.
 

WhiskerChops

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My half restored Manco XTK came with a cheap China torque converter. It grabbed often. And had the "wobble" If I wacked it with a 2X4,. it would act right for a bit, then grab/wobble again. I put red springs in it btw on the recommendation of users here.

I fixed it this morning. It runs like a champ now.

Internally, where the rollers rest, there were 3 welds, affixing spokes (roller channels) to the outer rim of the inner moving bell. 2 of my welds were recessed and well-polished, the 3rd stood slightly proud, about 1mm above the bells rim. Grinding and polishing this weld fixed my converter.
 

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Whitetrashrocker

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My half restored Manco XTK came with a cheap China torque converter. It grabbed often. And had the "wobble" If I wacked it with a 2X4,. it would act right for a bit, then grab/wobble again. I put red springs in it btw on the recommendation of users here.

I fixed it this morning. It runs like a champ now.

Internally, where the rollers rest, there were 3 welds, affixing spokes (roller channels) to the outer rim of the inner moving bell. 2 of my welds were recessed and well-polished, the 3rd stood slightly proud, about 1mm above the bells rim. Grinding and polishing this weld fixed my converter.
That can happen on a 40 series.
Squiddy has a 30 series. They are made entirely different inside.
 

Edwin Spangler

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My half restored Manco XTK came with a cheap China torque converter. It grabbed often. And had the "wobble" If I wacked it with a 2X4,. it would act right for a bit, then grab/wobble again. I put red springs in it btw on the recommendation of users here.

I fixed it this morning. It runs like a champ now.

Internally, where the rollers rest, there were 3 welds, affixing spokes (roller channels) to the outer rim of the inner moving bell. 2 of my welds were recessed and well-polished, the 3rd stood slightly proud, about 1mm above the bells rim. Grinding and polishing this weld fixed my converter.

I ask that you keep us updated on how it holds up. I applied the same assumed fix to my driver and it seemed to fix it. Problem came back after about 2hrs of driving. Disassembled again, took off more material, same temporary fix.

I literally ordered a new driver yesterday because I think mine is just faulty.

-But yea, I would really appreciate you letting me (us) know how it works after a few hours.

Thanks.
 

Squiddy202

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OP stated he pulled the handle on a jackstand and the belt shifted. If it won't shift while riding, I suspect throttle cable problems.
Smart guy, seemed to work. I think it didn’t feel like as much accel because with the pulleys my ratio was stupid low and they grab quick. Either way I have some questions. I slightly bent the one spring trying to do a governor bypass, does it look ok? (The one to the throttle lever.)
IMG_1859.jpeg
Side note, I didn’t end up using the governor bypass.

Next, up top it looks like I can just cut the fancy end off a throttle cable and strip it back:IMG_1860.jpeg
However, at the bottom it is different. It seems to have a special end, can anyone tell me what I am looking at? I know how the mechanism works, I just want to know the cable type to know what to get at tractor supply.
IMG_1862.jpegIMG_1861.jpegIMG_1863.jpeg
Finally, I imagine there is a process to make sure the throttle gets pulled all the way, could yall impart some wisdom into me on how that works?
 

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ezcome-ezgo

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This component circled below should not be and does not need to be replaced. The cable should slip inside of it (blue arrow). Pull it out of the metal bracket holding it (opposite direction of blue arrow) should be a slot in it (or it will be 2 pieces) to allow the cable to slide out. Replacement is the opposite process. You do not need a cable with a metal ferrule on the end for this to work.
1773062766341.png
 

ezcome-ezgo

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Getting "proper" cable travel is a trial-and-error process in many cases. From the carb you can roughly measure how much the cable itself travels from closed to wide open throttle (WOT). Translating that distance to a cable end at the throttle pedal should be relatively simple.
 

Squiddy202

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Figured I would add closure on this thread as well. I got a tractor supply cable, but it was solid core. That didn't stay on the pedal linkage well. (It uses a solid bar for the part under the kart and transitions to a cable.) My dad had a bolt from the brake mechanism of a little girl's bike. We widened the hole slightly and put that bolt on. It has a hole near the top so the cable goes through it and gets clamped. The kart does in fact get zoomin now. I was hitting 28 downhill without monkeying with the governor.
download - 2026-03-30T111011.392.jpeg
The bolt was just like this, it is a "pinch bolt."
Edit: Hopefully the little girl doesn't miss her functional brakes...
 
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