Cheap Chinese Parts in USA?

[Squiddy202]

Alright you all have been very helpful, however I have 3 more questions before buying the parts.

1. Do I need to cover the CVT because the driven pulley has exposed mechanisms and people talk about washing the belt?

2. What is the performance difference between a 6” and 7” driven? Does the 7” have the same minimum save but higher max?

3. How do if the belt that comes with the set fits/works properly? I can’t get a perfect one with the Amazon sets. Eventually I will get a comet belt that I measure.

P.S.
How do if the read this chart. I don’t get the abbreviations and stuff?:

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

If your not using the backnplate then your belt size will change on the distance between the pullies.

Measure the diameter of your driven or secondary. The one on the jack shaft.
Its either a 6 or a 7 inch. Thats what column you look in.

Then measure the distance between the centers of the pullies. The middle of the bolt.
That will be the CD measurement.

So if you have a 6" secondary and a center to center measurement of 9⅝ then you would want belt number 203595A

 

[panchothedog]

On the driven clutch, 6" is by far the most popular. Most all plate systems will come with a 6". The 7" gives you a little bit lower gear ratio. Stronger acceleration and better hill climbing ability ( by a very small amount ). To the best of my knowledge, top speed is the same. I have karts with both sizes. Really hard to tell the difference.

 

[Squiddy202]

If your not using the backnplate then your belt size will change on the distance between the pullies.

Measure the diameter of your driven or secondary. The one on the jack shaft.
Its either a 6 or a 7 inch. Thats what column you look in.

Then measure the distance between the centers of the pullies. The middle of the bolt.
That will be the CD measurement.

So if you have a 6" secondary and a center to center measurement of 9⅝ then you would want belt number 203595A

If I don’t use the backplate then I can’t mount the cover, do I need it? For me it is less about safety and more about dust/debris/water. How sensitive is the CVT?

 

[Edwin Spangler]

If I don’t use the backplate then I can’t mount the cover, do I need it? For me it is less about safety and more about dust/debris/water. How sensitive is the CVT?

We ride in dirty, dusty areas (I mean extremely dirty and dusty) and I always found the CVT covers caught all that stuff/dust/dirt/bugs and held it in. I tried cutting some ventilation into it and that helped with the dirt but I realize (confirmed several times with a temp gun) that cover heats up the belt to the point of not working properly.

The cheap belts, those will get hot enough and snap after about 20 minutes.

In the end, If my foot isnt inches from the CVT, I leave the cover off and just make sure nothing big gets sucked in there.

-But you still know theres always a chance.

 

[Hellion]

…but I realize (confirmed several times with a temp gun) that cover heats up the belt to the point of not working properly.

You don’t see them anymore, but a lot of the older TC parts diagrams showed a small fan blade mounted on the driver clutch which in conjunction with the cover may have worked quite well keeping air circulating and keeping things cooler. Engine running = fan turning.

 

[Squiddy202]

We ride in dirty, dusty areas (I mean extremely dirty and dusty) and I always found the CVT covers caught all that stuff/dust/dirt/bugs and held it in. I tried cutting some ventilation into it and that helped with the dirt but I realize (confirmed several times with a temp gun) that cover heats up the belt to the point of not working properly.

The cheap belts, those will get hot enough and snap after about 20 minutes.

In the end, If my foot isnt inches from the CVT, I leave the cover off and just make sure nothing big gets sucked in there.

-But you still know theres always a chance.

Thanks, I will probably make a very simple sheet metal cover in my school that only prevents like large objects. (arms) Maybe just a no-touchy sign for fingers. I will probably make something like a cage or a top cover. Sheet metal will trap heat but not if I am careful with the design. My dad doesn't want to have one of my friends amputated since some of my friends are not as experienced.

 

[Squiddy202]

You don’t see them anymore, but a lot of the older TC parts diagrams showed a small fan blade mounted on the driver clutch which in conjunction with the cover may have worked quite well keeping air circulating and keeping things cooler. Engine running = fan turning.

I wonder if I could diy that? I suppose it would need to be strong and balanced. Maybe someone makes something similar that could be mounted. Maybe something off a small car.

Edit:
I was just looking and don't see them for sale. I wouldn't trust myself to not create a grenade so I probably wouldn't diy it. I bet when I make my speedo/tach I could add a temp sensor (I checked, they do have IR temp sensors for arduino.) to the arduino to get an idea and tell me when to let it rest. Is that an issue with comet belts?

 

[Thepartsguy]

Thanks, I will probably make a very simple sheet metal cover in my school that only prevents like large objects. (arms) Maybe just a no-touchy sign for fingers. I will probably make something like a cage or a top cover. Sheet metal will trap heat but not if I am careful with the design. My dad doesn't want to have one of my friends amputated since some of my friends are not as experienced.

If they have zero experience running karts/minibikes do not let them try to learn on your stuff.

I have TONS of story’s of my family members and family members friends getting into some nasty accidents on out karts and mini bikes back around 2009 or so.

 

[Squiddy202]

If they have zero experience running karts/minibikes do not let them try to learn on your stuff.

I have TONS of story’s of my family members and family members friends getting into some nasty accidents on out karts and mini bikes back around 2009 or so.

Mine is kinda slow, I definitely wouldn’t let them work on it though .

 

[Squiddy202]

Hello all,
I got the parts in but have questions. The instructions say to “fasten with proper bolt (drive)/nut (driven) and gasket.” I am not sure what it means. I took this bolt of the crank with my centrifugal:

(Sorry image uploaded weird.) This is like ~1 1/4 long. The instructions say 2 - 1/4 but have the weird unthreaded part. My shaft doesn’t seem to work with that. I am wondering what the proper is gasket/bolt is. The nut must be right but I am unsure about the rest. It came with nothing. The driven does have a c-clamp. In pictures and reference images I seem to see a rubber washer of some kind. Or it is black.

TLDR:
What kind of bolt is good enough/what washers do I need.

Edit:
Random EBay kit that has the unthreaded part:
link
I think it is meant to be a one size fits all but I don’t think it will fit mine. Please help.

Edit 2:
How do I grease the CVT. I’ve seen people do the drive sleeve but does the driven need any?

Edit 3: (final)
One guy said to not use brass bushing because it can get the drive pulley stuck and make it not engage. It then increases belt wear, what is y’all’s experience? Bushing or no bushing?

 

[panchothedog]

I think you are asking what bolt to use to hold on the driver clutch. Most small block engines use a 5/16" X 24 ( thread count ) bolt. It will need to be around
2& 1/2" long. It should thread in easily. Don't force it. Not knowing what brand of engine you have, it could be different. If the T C came with a brass bushing to go on the driver shaft, use it. They help keep the kart from creeping while at idle. DO NOT grease the clutches in any way. They are meant to be run bone dry. For the washer on the outside, they manufacture a very thick one that you can buy. You can also use a extra thick hardware store washer. Whatever bolt you used to hold on the centrifugal clutch is the correct thread count and diameter. You just need it longer.

 

[Squiddy202]

I think you are asking what bolt to use to hold on the driver clutch. Most small block engines use a 5/16" X 24 ( thread count ) bolt. It will need to be around
2& 1/2" long. It should thread in easily. Don't force it. Not knowing what brand of engine you have, it could be different. If the T C came with a brass bushing to go on the driver shaft, use it. They help keep the kart from creeping while at idle. DO NOT grease the clutches in any way. They are meant to be run bone dry. For the washer on the outside, they manufacture a very thick one that you can buy. You can also use a extra thick hardware store washer. Whatever bolt you used to hold on the centrifugal clutch is the correct thread count and diameter. You just need it longer.

Should the external washer be rubber or metal? Should it be a lock washer?

 

[Denny]

It is a steel just blackened. Only lube the CVT with dry graphite. Use blue Lok-Tite on the bolt to hold it in place.

 

[Squiddy202]

It is a steel just blackened. Only lube the CVT with dry graphite. Use blue Lok-Tite on the bolt to hold it in place.

So not a locking one?

 

[Denny]

You can add one! But only one.

 

[panchothedog]

Should the external washer be rubber or metal? Should it be a lock washer?

Metal. The thicker the better.