Changing the cam ONLY on a 212cc

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Zombient

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Is there really any benefit to it? If I were to change just the cam, am I going to end up screwing something up badly or will the lack of springs, a rod, etc. cancel out any power gained?

Couldn't find a single thread or video anywhere asking this question.
 

anickode

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A cam won't necessarily ruin your engine by itself, but if your engine can't breathe, you won't benefit from it very much at all, and if you have removed the governor and are running stock carb and exhaust, you'll likely end up running lean at high throttle. These engines do that with the STOCK cam.

A cam increases the amount of air and fuel sucked in on your intake stroke. If you have a carb able to provide that air and fuel, and an exhaust capable of getting rid of it, you will see some gains for sure.

The valves will still float at 5400 rpm so if you've removed your governor, that will still act as a crude governing mechanism.

However, that extra air and fuel is going to increase your cylinder head pressure, which will put extra strain on the bottom end components.

So it might work, or it might go bang. Like you said, I don't know if anyone has actually done just a cam before. It's down near the middle of the "what mods to do in what order" list.

From a stock engine, you want to do exhaust, carb, and a governor delete before anything else, and see where that puts you. You'll probably be happy with that, at least for a while. Then start looking at internal components.
 

Kartorbust

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There are cams out there for stock engines. It's a bit more aggressive, but not enough to do real harm in the short term.
 

Zombient

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I should have added, I do already have a stage 1 kit. Intake, larger jet, exhaust and a timing key.

I'll check into some improved stock cams. Thank you!
 

Scout

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Theres a lot more to cams than just changing the amount of fuel and air that gets in the cylinder. Lift, duration, and overlap and play a part in how much power and where it makes power. You've already done that basics, it's a good foundation. Others are going to recommend a rod and flywheel for safety. Sometimes cams come with heavier springs which help to get more rpms, so if you change springs it's a good idea to change rod and flywheel. One thing though, depending on how big of a cam you go with, you should check to make sure the new cam doesn't hit the cylinder bore.
 

karl

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In my gokart I run a Nr racing 230 - 0211 Marine cam

stock bottom end and flywheel.

I just removed the governor, Installed 10.8 springs, Installed a thin (.14?) copper head gasket, then air filter adapter, rejet, and made an exhaust header.

It is a high torque cam , factory lift with lots of duration. Max 5500.

It makes power in the rpm range the bottom end can hold, and the duration helps with the factory carb alot, allowing much more fuel and air in.

I had to grind a bit of the crank to fit .

I probably have 20+ hours on this setup, Including WOT down the road for a mile +, no issues yet.

Makes a mean combo with a torque converter. On a minibike it would wheelie for days.
 

KartFab

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so just looking at any aftermarket cam, you will need to change the timing, valve lash, and springs to whatever the cam card says they need to be at.

Russel wrote at article about the cams he sells, and you usually see the MOST improvement when you already have the intake/exhaust done. I also have the marine grind cam and its absolutely nutty how much pull it gets, but planes out at 5000-5500 rpm. Best cam that I have experienced so far.

You may need to play with jetting. Even changing the mufffler on my engine caused it to lean out a bit. Hard to read the plug since it was clean, but if you let off the throttle at top speed wide open and the kart lurches forward, its still lean.
 

anickode

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Cars and cameras channel on YouTube... Just posted a video of a 212 they blew up running the stock rod with a hot cam. Stuck the rod right through the case.

Pretty safe bet they didn't do all the other recommended stuff.
 

Zombient

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Yeah I saw that. They were running a stock rod and I think new springs.

I'm just going to wait until I can afford to swap out all the parts, not just the cam.
 

Bubba_Z

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Ike was almost in tears....$83 and it would not have happened. ARC Rod = no tears.

---------- Post added at 12:09 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:03 AM ----------

That being said, Just watched the Rod video at ARC. Man that Wisco 3 ring + 1 hp setup sure looks SWEET....$83 for a rod or $200 for Rod and piston (+ 1 hp):confused::roflol:
 
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