Chain keeps slipping but not falling off

Jaaysupreme

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Built a go kart and switched from centrifugal clutch to 30 series torque converter. I shortened the chain installed it and the kart drove great for a few laps but then as I would increase speed I could hear the chain skipping teeth. I checked the chain all of a sudden seems to be tighter and a few of my teeth seem worn . I don’t know enough to know if now my sprockets are just to close or if my chain is too tight please someone help !!
 

madprofessor

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Chain that's too tight or even just right won't skip in the absence of external forces changing the tension.
That tight when stopped, skipping when running, likely means something is flexing under load when running, loosening the tension. Springs back to tight again when stopped, no load anymore.
 

Jaaysupreme

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I have come to the conclussion that when I sit in the cart the chain loosens (due to the shocks ) but when I’m not sitting in the cart the chain gives the impression of being tight . Attached is a photo of the chain looseness when sitting in the cart it’s about a half link loose when I sit in the cart
 

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Jaaysupreme

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These are images of the kart I built
 

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madprofessor

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Yeah, that pinched up link does say loose. Trying to figure out how a motor rigid mounted on a swingarm could change tension just because of a rider's weight. The only thing I'm seeing (if seeing it correctly) is that your 2 swingarm pivots are so close together that there may be some wig-wag going on there.
Reminds me of karts where a U-joint was the only thing holding the swingarm to the kart frame.
Oh wait.........Is that a 3/4" axle? If it's flexing with weight, that would affect tension. I'll add a pic of how wide my swingarm pivots are spaced, and of how my 1" axle uses 4 pillow block bearings. Overkill on the bearings.
 

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Denny

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Is your engine mount flexing? Are you sure all of your sprockets are of a matched size.
Example all #35 or all #40
 

Jaaysupreme

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I have found an offset link available at a close by store I’m thinking possibly taking out that one link and installing the offset link
 

madprofessor

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I ordered a pack of 10 of those half-links for $6.99 on ebay, and they've been a huge help for me. Just be sure to fold those shear pins differently than you might do bigger ones, fold both ends 180 to each other, and wrap them tight all the way around the post.
The post has a flat side, so when insert it you have to spin it to match the flat side of the link's hole (it will stay put, won't rotate).
Install the shear pin so the folded (center) end travels first, the 2 spread ends trailing behind. Like a master link's clip travels solid side first.
I had to use reader glasses, my bench's work light overhead, and a flashlight to be able to see that tiny stuff.
 

Jaaysupreme

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Thank you very much for the info just waiting for princess auto to have them in stock they’re 2.49 for a 4 pack
 

madprofessor

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Someone recently suggested elsewhere that standing on the seat, even jumping up and down on it, allows you to see while sitting still what's moving and out of sight behind you when running. That was for adjusting chain tension in similar circumstances like this.
 

Denny

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That is your real problem. You will never get that chain tight enough with the engine plate flexing. It should be rigidly mounted.
 

madprofessor

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Denny advised me elsewhere also to rigid mount my motor, get rid of my rubber motor grommets. Did it, and he was right. That rigidity and my other measures for more rigidity made all the difference I needed.
Rigid mounting, rigid mounting plate, rigid axle, the results are exceptional.
 
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