Ok guys, I work on this thing two hours a week so it's ddrrraaaagging along slowly. After setting the engine in place and shifting it as far left as it will go, the sprocket on the driven is still about 1/2 inch or so too far inboard in relation to the jackshaft sprocket..Has anyone had this problem when replacing a tec powersport engine with a Honda? All I know to do is to use spacers between TC bracket and engine until the sprockets line up properly.I think this is explained simply enough that no pics are needed.HOWEVER, I can try to take pics if you'll feel it's needed.I do not think there is a way to move the jackshaft sprocket. Or is there? This is a Carter Kart Model 2936-4015 SPX. Thanks again as always!!!
Chain alignment problems with Honda GX 200
- Thread starter Cntry boy
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OzFab
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Um, no, it's not; unless you have a second jackshaft (the driven being on the first) the driven sprocket is the jackshaft sprocket... or, by driven sprocket do you mean the axle sprocket?
See, I'm confused...
What he said /\
A picture can show us things that you might not even have thought about
A picture can show us things that you might not even have thought about
Thanks for the responses guys. I didn't know why I was getting no replies. Now I do... Everyone thought I had slipped and hit my head. After all, how many jack shafts can one kart have??? I will post pics tonight fabroman and land use. I truly appreciate this site AND your help. What we have here is a failure to communicate!! ME obviously!!
Well, a TC IS a jackshaft basically.. so you have two already ..
and since there is no "one JS setup" but dozens, you can stack them as long as you have enough room on your kart.... (you didn't asked for it to make sense right
)
You should not just assume we know each and every model of each and every brand just by a number...
chances are we don't
So make it easy for us and SHOW what you got, not just tell
Anyways, I get it.. the kart you have runs it's jack shaft on the rear end of the engine mounting plate. (By luck I had the pdf in my kart folder)
And yes, a TC with an aluminium back plate will make it difficult to go past the edge of your mounting plate since it sits inboard quite a bit.
depending on the exact amounts and details you might be able to flip the JS-in sprocket and if it has a collar towards the mounting plate.. turn it around and you gained a couple of mm already.
But I guess that won't do..
next best thing I can think of is to to the opposite and move the engine inwards a good amount, then cut a slot in the mounting plate for the chain/sprocket ...
now you only need to move the JS-in sprocket "under" the mounting plate and you're set.
that means you may need a set of locking collars, you may even need a new jackshaft, if yours isn't keyed all the way for example...
I don't know, and I can't even tell for sure by the pdf (I'd say it's not *shrugs*)...
And that's where pictures come in handy
The more we can see, the more we can help
'sid
PS I'm not entirely sure.. but original stamped steel backplate might work.
the engine itself shouldn't make much difference.. surely not a centimeter ..
and since there is no "one JS setup" but dozens, you can stack them as long as you have enough room on your kart.... (you didn't asked for it to make sense right
)You should not just assume we know each and every model of each and every brand just by a number...
chances are we don't
So make it easy for us and SHOW what you got, not just tell
Anyways, I get it.. the kart you have runs it's jack shaft on the rear end of the engine mounting plate. (By luck I had the pdf in my kart folder)
And yes, a TC with an aluminium back plate will make it difficult to go past the edge of your mounting plate since it sits inboard quite a bit.
depending on the exact amounts and details you might be able to flip the JS-in sprocket and if it has a collar towards the mounting plate.. turn it around and you gained a couple of mm already.
But I guess that won't do..
next best thing I can think of is to to the opposite and move the engine inwards a good amount, then cut a slot in the mounting plate for the chain/sprocket ...
now you only need to move the JS-in sprocket "under" the mounting plate and you're set.
that means you may need a set of locking collars, you may even need a new jackshaft, if yours isn't keyed all the way for example...
I don't know, and I can't even tell for sure by the pdf (I'd say it's not *shrugs*)...
And that's where pictures come in handy
The more we can see, the more we can help
'sid
PS I'm not entirely sure.. but original stamped steel backplate might work.
the engine itself shouldn't make much difference.. surely not a centimeter ..
you're welcome..
and please do, we'll be here
'sid
and please do, we'll be here
'sid
Pics
Okay guys, sorry for the very lengthy delay but other priorities trumped the go kart for awhile.Here are the pics you asked for with hopefully a beneficial description as well.As a reminder, this is an old Carter Kart that was given to us for refurbishing. It came originally with a Tecumseh powersport engine and a 30 series comet TC setup.EVERYTHING was replaced exactly as was except for the engine being replaced by the Honda GX 200. So here goes...
In pic 3,it is clear that there is not enough clearance between the driven pulley and the chain which connects the driven to the "driveshaft".(I refer to the shaft in pic 5 as the driveshaft for lack of proper terminology.)This drive shaft/sprocket connects to the drum braked live axle/sprocket which is in front of it as seen in pic 5.In review, the driven drives the "driveshaft" which then drives the live axle located forward of the "driveshaft".
When we first attempted the install, the chain hit against the driven pulley and didn't even allow us to get everything in proper position. It was then that we first noticed the "3/8" "buildup or ledge" on the Tecumseh that was not present on the Honda( See pic 1) We now knew that we would have to shim the TC plate away from engine by 3/8".(See pic 2...wide arrow).This allows mounting of everything but with the minimal(1/16" max) clearance between driven pulley and chain as seen in pic 3.Since we knew this was not enough clearance, we tried to shim farther out but ran into another problem.If we added a thicker shim, we get good chain alignment and sufficient chain clearance. But when the larger shim is used, we lose the clearance between TC plate and drive pulley that we now have(See pic 2 thin arrow) and the drive pulley hits the TC plate.
Questions: 1) Why didn't the 3/8" shim correct for the 3/8" "buildup" of the Tecumseh? 2) How can we correct the chain clearance problem? Thought: We can position the engine in the correct forwardmost chain tight position, then cut a notch in the mounting plate which allows leftward shift in engine position and results in the needed clearance while maintaining chain alignment.Itsid,Fabroman,Vtwinscoot, hope you are there!
Thanks for all your help!
Okay guys, sorry for the very lengthy delay but other priorities trumped the go kart for awhile.Here are the pics you asked for with hopefully a beneficial description as well.As a reminder, this is an old Carter Kart that was given to us for refurbishing. It came originally with a Tecumseh powersport engine and a 30 series comet TC setup.EVERYTHING was replaced exactly as was except for the engine being replaced by the Honda GX 200. So here goes...
In pic 3,it is clear that there is not enough clearance between the driven pulley and the chain which connects the driven to the "driveshaft".(I refer to the shaft in pic 5 as the driveshaft for lack of proper terminology.)This drive shaft/sprocket connects to the drum braked live axle/sprocket which is in front of it as seen in pic 5.In review, the driven drives the "driveshaft" which then drives the live axle located forward of the "driveshaft".
When we first attempted the install, the chain hit against the driven pulley and didn't even allow us to get everything in proper position. It was then that we first noticed the "3/8" "buildup or ledge" on the Tecumseh that was not present on the Honda( See pic 1) We now knew that we would have to shim the TC plate away from engine by 3/8".(See pic 2...wide arrow).This allows mounting of everything but with the minimal(1/16" max) clearance between driven pulley and chain as seen in pic 3.Since we knew this was not enough clearance, we tried to shim farther out but ran into another problem.If we added a thicker shim, we get good chain alignment and sufficient chain clearance. But when the larger shim is used, we lose the clearance between TC plate and drive pulley that we now have(See pic 2 thin arrow) and the drive pulley hits the TC plate.
Questions: 1) Why didn't the 3/8" shim correct for the 3/8" "buildup" of the Tecumseh? 2) How can we correct the chain clearance problem? Thought: We can position the engine in the correct forwardmost chain tight position, then cut a notch in the mounting plate which allows leftward shift in engine position and results in the needed clearance while maintaining chain alignment.Itsid,Fabroman,Vtwinscoot, hope you are there!
Thanks for all your help!
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KartFab
Active member
put a spacer between the driven unit fixed sheave and chain (machine washers ought to do it, or cut a section of tubing for a spacer).
If you need to space out the drive unit, you can do that as well. The drive unit's hub just needs a little bit of shaft to hold on to, and torque down the shaft bolt pretty tight and you are good.
Also, if you realize it or not, there is considerable play in the engine mount, you might be able to just unbolt the engine, angle it a little bit differently, then carefully torque down the bolts again. I'd try that first.
If you need to space out the drive unit, you can do that as well. The drive unit's hub just needs a little bit of shaft to hold on to, and torque down the shaft bolt pretty tight and you are good.
Also, if you realize it or not, there is considerable play in the engine mount, you might be able to just unbolt the engine, angle it a little bit differently, then carefully torque down the bolts again. I'd try that first.
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Driver should have come stock w/ a spacer. It's installed behind the unit to clear anything on the engine during rotaion.
What size chain is that?... If it's a #40... then switch to a #41 and chain clearance is greatly better (no need to shim driven if chain is changed to a narrower width)!
What size chain is that?... If it's a #40... then switch to a #41 and chain clearance is greatly better (no need to shim driven if chain is changed to a narrower width)!
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