Carter with death rattle steering

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Provff26

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Hey i have a carter? go kart that tank slaps beyond belief! For you old school guys its much like the infamous jeep death rattle and id rather not put a heco-stabilizer on a yard kart lol. It darts back and forth at low speeds and at high speeds literally will just snap back and forth and dart in any direction without notice randomly if you dont grip the wheel like the hulk on meth. ANY help to alleviate this would be greatly appreciated. I have a sample pic of the kart style ill try and post and will take pics of the actual kart and steering assembly when im home from work
Cheers, miles
 

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OzFab

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It could be something as simple as needing a toe adjustment or it could be something a lot more serious (like something's bent)...

Most funcarts weren't designed with race car steering but, they're not that bad...
 

Provff26

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The only thing i can think is that the length of the steering arm to the tie rod(single solid rod with adjustable ends that attatch to the spindle control arms) is too long. It is probably about three inches long and steering column is mounted below the tie rod. Could this be the issue? Only one i can think of by looking at everything, nothings too bent up more than any other yard kart
 

OzFab

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We'd need pics to know for sure but, my guess is, that's how it was built so, it shouldn't be the problem.

Discounting all other possibilities, I still think it may be a toe issue; the wheels are meant to point inward slightly so the "fight" eachother which stablizes the steering
 

Provff26

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I will try and get pics up tomorrow when im home from work if i dont pass out on my face, currently in mid 38 hr shift. But from what i recall they are toed in, and they sure as hell fight the crap outa eachother lol
 

Half-breeder

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From what I remember bout alignment... toe-in= better cornering... toe-out=better straight control...w/ tires 'that' size(in pic above) if you have too much toe-in or -out, at faster speeds you WILL have control issues, hence at slower speeds control is compensated for by the slower rotation of the tires.

I measured the distance from the front side of the 2 front tires then the back part of the same 2 tires. Make sure you steering wheel is in the 'straight' position... adjust tie-rods accordingly.

Another thing it could 'possibly' be is tie-rod ends may have too much play in them... or its possible the wheel bearings may have issues... just acouple 'other' thoughts to chew on.
 

Doc Sprocket

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There are indeed several possibilities here. When you have the chance, shoot some pics. Most beneficial would be a good overhead shot of the frontend showing all steering components and both tires, with the steering straight, and perhaps one with the wheels cranked off to one side or the other. A head-on shot with the wheels straight may help, too.

Meantime, you can check the following-

-Alignment should be near zero. Toe within 1 or 2 degrees. Anything more may cause problems.
-All steering links should be free of slop. Wiggle the steering wheel back and forth without realy turining the tires. Is there any free play anywhere?
-jack the front end off the ground. Feel for slop in the wheel bearings (or bushings) as well as in the steering knuckles. Any free movement will produce unpredictable steering.

Welcome to the forum.
 

Provff26

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Out running errands with my fiance. So much for sleep! But pics should be up by tonight. My crazy brother doesnt want me to fix it cuz every sh..box hes had has had a death rattle, that and he screws around our track on the thing haha. But most other ppl are just scared to death of it lol. Theres not too much play and probably bad bearings in the front cuz we run em on a backyard hillbilly track and eat bearings like candy and keep the "decent" ones in the rear drive. Those things r expensive! But when it has had new bearings in it i know for a fact its just as bad. Also does anyone have any remedies to not chew thru bearings so quickly? We coat them in a very thick layer of grease and it prolongs it but not as much as wed like. We eat a drive bearing at least every 3 or so hours of actual track time. Thanks again gents cheers
 

Provff26

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Ok got some pics. She more beat than i recalled but it had just as bad if not a worse death rattle before te control arm was bent(to help the toe cuz it was undriveable) and before the left front spindle was replaced before a herendous hillbilly track wreck. So im kinda lost and hoping this ingenious crowd can come up woth a fix. And although it may not look it, the pittman arm is very long probably right about 3 inches. Also just measured our hillbilly tral and its a 1/20th mile. We run 10t clutch and 60t sprocket. Thinking of dropping the rear down, good idea? Suggestions on size? If not ill post a new thread
 

Provff26

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Darn pics didnt show trying again. Too much lateral could be a viable option. Its not a big deal cuz our track is so short and a 5 lap race kicks ur butt so thats usually two decent weekends pf racing to make up the three hours of total race time. And we do use the high quality snap ring bearings. Hopefully the pics show!
 

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Half-breeder

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well it may 'just' be me... but you have a boomerang for a tie-rod=lil/no control... youre about 30degrees outta wack(toe-in)... FINALLY the root of all ur problems... n I know cuz i had the same issue (now that we have 'pix')... ur front driver side wheel(looks to be a NTool turf wheel... aluminum, thin and TOO plyable metal) is NOT a good choice for a wheel. If it isnt a 6$ wheel... ill scratch my head too.
 
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landuse

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Like Doc says, read that sticky again and try get some ackermann incorporated there. You are always going to have dodgy steering if you don't get all that fixed
 
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