Carter Talon key switch replacement

[Teresa]

I have a 2015 Carter-Talon 150cc go-kart. I lost the keys and have a new switch. But the wiring has different colors on the new switch, so I'm looking for a wiring diagram color code. I want to finish this before the end of the summer. The 1st pic is the new one.

 

[Functional Artist]

Howdy T,

Good news & Bad news

Bad news is they (manufacturers) don't seem to have or use a certain "color code" for their wiring harnesses
...some times but, not very often (especially Chinese manufacturers)

Good news is that it's usually not very hard to "chase" the wires down to their perspective components

Generally, "Power" is usually/probably the red wire & should go to the battery positive (+)
..."Ground" is usually/probably black & should go to the chassis &/or battery negative (-)
...&/or starter engagement (? color) wire (should go to the solenoid on the starter)
...etc.

IIRC, there are a few members on here that have Carter Talon's
...so, hopefully others will "chime in" with more info

 

[rockman96]

Can you post pics of both switch back-sides?

 

[Denny]

Your probably going to need to figure out the functions of each of the wires first then match them up.

 

[Denny]

Your probably going to need to figure out the functions of each of the wires first then match them up.

 

[Functional Artist]

Your probably going to need to figure out the functions of each of the wires first then match them up.

Your probably going to need to figure out the functions of each of the wires first then match them up.

Hey Denny,
Hey Denny,

Do ya have ta tell 'em twice?
Do ya have ta tell 'em twice?

 

[Denny]

I have no idea what’s going on with this stupid phone here lately.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Blame the phone....

 

[Rat]

Howdy T,

Good news & Bad news

Bad news is they (manufacturers) don't seem to have or use a certain "color code" for their wiring harnesses
...some times but, not very often (especially Chinese manufacturers)

Good news is that it's usually not very hard to "chase" the wires down to their perspective components

Generally, "Power" is usually/probably the red wire & should go to the battery positive (+)
..."Ground" is usually/probably black & should go to the chassis &/or battery negative (-)

Except the Chinese like to use WHITE for grounds more than any other color. Black, green, Blue all could be either.

...&/or starter engagement (? color) wire (should go to the solenoid on the starter)
...etc.

Typically starters are engaged with a red wire or a red/yellow, or Black/red

Green/Yellow or Yellow/green is the one wire that is always a ground

IIRC, there are a few members on here that have Carter Talon's
...so, hopefully others will "chime in" with more info

The SAFEST route here (the one I use myself on unknowns like this) is to use a DMM (digital multimeter) set on continuity.

This is the fastest and easiest way to shake out what is connected to what in all positions; a large number of replacement key switches don't support dual polarity which is required to cut the engine off.

By the looks of it that is the case with this scenario because the new one is short 2 wires in comparison

I recomend tagging wires with masking tape and a pen as you figure out what's what clicking the key one position, but the easiest place to begin is with the starter line since only 2 wires will have continuity to each other at that point (batt and start)

Once you have those two shook out it's fairly easy to work backwards which one's are what because only one of those will have continuity to the ON position wires. If there is an accessory position (I'm guessing there isn't) then those would have continuity in every position except Off and Start.

 

[Rat]

Getting into the spaghetti is no joke... I was chasing a random power loss behind the key, found it and patched it.

The thing that makes it a nightmare (aside from tangling) is there is at least 6 different color codes for ground alone in that factory original harness on this machine.

 

[rockman96]

Your probably going to need to figure out the functions of each of the wires first then match them up.

Common sense, that is the normal way. But for someone not experienced or who doesn't own a meter, and, if she has pics of the back of the original switch with wires connected... Then it would be pretty simple for us to help her convert over to the new switch.

 

[Denny]

Common sense, that is the normal way. But for someone not experienced or who doesn't own a meter, and, if she has pics of the back of the original switch with wires connected... Then it would be pretty simple for us to help her convert over to the new switch.

You would think that, but when it comes to these types of buggies it rarely is true. Pinning it out with a digital volt ohm meter is the safest way.

 

[Rat]

Common sense, that is the normal way. But for someone not experienced or who doesn't own a meter, and, if she has pics of the back of the original switch with wires connected... Then it would be pretty simple for us to help her convert over to the new switch.

There is no such thing as COMMON sense, one either uses their full mental capacity OR they don't. One is capable of making reasonable deductions, Or they are not.

To claim any part of it is COMMON in this day and age is advertising one's own blatant ignorance.

That said; you'll be hard pressed to find anyone that is going to challenge my advice in post #9.

Post #10 is a pretty good indicator I know my way around the messes. I've made my own wiring looms and subharnesses for custom and restoration projects alike... a DMM is an absolute requirement unless you enjoy burning money to make pungent magic smoke