Working on carter kart with grandson and the one piece jackshaft (housing, bearings, jackshaft) needs some attention. The shaft needs to be replaced due to keyway being distorted. How to remove pressed in bearings from housing is the main concern right now....OR where can a replacement JS unit be had? thanks
carter jackshaft help
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Paden87
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Pictures?
jake_b220
New member
I'm needing the same thing at the moment for a carter super wheels. The whole housing was gone when I bought it. Someone on here recommended using pillow blocks to make one. May be the route I go if I cant find a factory housing
I can't tell for sure, but from the pics I'd say the bearings are secured in with the dimples you see on either end of the jackshaft main tube.
if you tried penetrating oil, patience and brute force already, then I guess those dimples were set AFTER the bearing was pressed in, and that means you likely need to drill those spots in order to remove the bearing.
'sid
if you tried penetrating oil, patience and brute force already, then I guess those dimples were set AFTER the bearing was pressed in, and that means you likely need to drill those spots in order to remove the bearing.
'sid
Denny
Canned Monster
I don't think I would drill the dimples. They look like they are there to stop the bearing from being pressed in too far or from working their way in to the tube.
Denny
Denny
machinist@large
Active member
The dimples are there to locate/ capture the bearing; the most common practice is to install the dimples, and then install the original bearings to depth using gaged tooling.
If you're careful, the new bearings should install and register correctly using the dimples as your guide.
while I fully agree with you, that the dimples SHOULD be there only to stop the bearing from going in too far..
they're obviously cold deformations,
without support from the inside the tube can easily oval out...
with cheap tooling or as a lazy craftsman...
it's easier to whack them in with the bearing in place.
In that scenario, a small misalignment is enough to trap the bearing in place for good.
Anyways, try heating the tube roughly by about 200°C (~390F) that should expand the mild steel enough to let go the bearing if it's not cold tacked with the dimples.
it'll ruin the paint though.
'sid
they're obviously cold deformations,
without support from the inside the tube can easily oval out...
with cheap tooling or as a lazy craftsman...
it's easier to whack them in with the bearing in place.
In that scenario, a small misalignment is enough to trap the bearing in place for good.
Anyways, try heating the tube roughly by about 200°C (~390F) that should expand the mild steel enough to let go the bearing if it's not cold tacked with the dimples.
it'll ruin the paint though.
'sid
bearing removal
thanks for the comments! How do the old bearings come out? Do I pound the shaft on the ends to drive the bearings out? The shaft is held inside the housing with a long key in the keyway to keep it from sliding out of the housing? thanks again
thanks for the comments! How do the old bearings come out? Do I pound the shaft on the ends to drive the bearings out? The shaft is held inside the housing with a long key in the keyway to keep it from sliding out of the housing? thanks again
Poboy kartman
Senior Moments Member
One thing you may want to do before you start pounding on it is spray it with some rust penetrating oil.....
Now, for years I've been saying DO NOT use WD-40 for rust release..WD stands for "Water Displacing " and it's not a penetrating oil.....and I recommended PB Blaster.
Now...I have to recommend WD-40!!!! But not "normal" WD-40...but WD-40 'Specialist' rust release penetrant spray.... it's GOOD stuff!!!.
Now, for years I've been saying DO NOT use WD-40 for rust release..WD stands for "Water Displacing " and it's not a penetrating oil.....and I recommended PB Blaster.
Now...I have to recommend WD-40!!!! But not "normal" WD-40...but WD-40 'Specialist' rust release penetrant spray.... it's GOOD stuff!!!.
machinist@large
Active member
Alex, your points about workmanship can (mostly) be remediated with dedicated tooling; the most basic version was one that I built for a customer around 20 years ago and consisted of an arbor w/ work stop mounted in a small trip press. All the operator had to do was slide the tube onto the arbor up to the stop and step on the pedal.
Poboy kartman
Senior Moments Member
But then again....they could have been manufactured in Michigan!
yes pat, WITH dedicated tooling... that's what I meant to say (in case they're the "without" dedicated tooling type 
)
'sid
)'sid
machinist@large
Active member
Nope. All the low skill jobs moved to places like Texas years ago because they couldn't play the illegal card up here. We had to go up the skill level/ quality ladder to survive.
Case in point; you need a high school diploma or GED just to get hired in shipping where I work; the machining department requires 12 credit hours of college (work specific classes) before you can make top rate (a $2.00 an hour difference if you don't have them).
Nice try Doug, but once again, reality has gotten in the way of the random thought you had......
Success in getting the shaft and the bearings out of the housing. Just tapped the shaft end and the shaft slid through the bearings. Just have to get a .75 in. keyed shaft and 1630 2RS bearings. Pretty straight forward task. Least will be ale to use the original JS housing.
Poboy kartman
Senior Moments Member
Nope. All the low skill jobs moved to places like Texas years ago because they couldn't play the illegal card up here. We had to go up the skill level/ quality ladder to survive.
Case in point; you need a high school diploma or GED just to get hired in shipping where I work; the machining department requires 12 credit hours of college (work specific classes) before you can make top rate (a $2.00 an hour difference if you don't have them).
Nice try Doug, but once again, reality has gotten in the way of the random thought you had......
Pat....Pat...Pat.....When oh when are you ever going to learn not to go up against the Poboy???
Unskilled? ?? So a High School diploma = skill? Naw...Texans are highly skilled and well educated...(despite the stereotype) . Tell ya what REALITY is! Y'all squeak by in school get a job and a UNION CARD....and it doesn't matter whether you're competent or not....you got a job with good pay that takes an act of Congress to get you fired from!
machinist@large
Active member
Just one problem with that argument: my current job is the first union shop I've ever worked for. The other 13 were all non union. Union card??? Not worth the paper they're printed on anymore. My shop, no matter what piece of paper you have, you spend at three months (if not more) as a temp. We've weeded out a lot of paper tigers along the way (and pissed off a whole lot of dead wood types along the way).
Sorry, Doug. That argument doesn't hold water.
Poboy kartman
Senior Moments Member
.......But....you slipped in!!!! I rest my case!
machinist@large
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Jrgunn5150
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I've only been part of one Union, the United Steel Worker's, when i was also a machinist. Completely worthless. I've spent my entire career in manufacturing and have always been non-union, and made good money.
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