Carter bros 1755? restoration project

chargergeek22

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Hi i just recently bought this from a guy for 75$ and bought a new predator motor for it. Although im trying to figure out if i can convert this to a 30 series tc or if im better off buying a 20 series driver to match the driven that is on it already. I didnt know if there was anyway to get a reverse spring or something for the driven clutch on a 30 series because its way cheaper to buy a whole 30 series set up i see than it is to buy a 20 driver.
 

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panchothedog

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Welcome to the forum. Is the shaft that your driven clutch is on keyed? Also what diameter? To buy a new 30 series torque converter would probably be the least expensive. Most all driven clutches are keyed, and sit on a 5/8" shaft .
if those dimension work then go for it. You will have to flip the driven clutch
180 degrees or else it would be spinning the wrong way. Shouldn't be a problem doing that.
 

panchothedog

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Never heard of a reverse wound spring for the 30. Very popular for the 40, but that is a whole different subject.
 

chargergeek22

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Never heard of a reverse wound spring for the 30. Very popular for the 40, but that is a whole different subject.
How much is a new 20 series driver? That is all you need to stay with the 20.
I cant seem to find one under about 70$ after shipping. Okay what if i went with the 40 series setup? Or is there that much of a benefit to go from the 20 series to 40 series? I didnt figure a 30 series would work being its an inboard. Im just curious about how anyone else would go about it?
 

panchothedog

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No, don't even think about a 40 series. Very expensive and won't fit your engine anyway. Did you figure out size and keyed or not of your jackshaft.
I don't see a problem with turning the series 30 driven around. A new 30 series torque converter is about $60. You say the new 20 series driver is $70. What's the big deal over $10. I think you could go either way. But first you need to figure out if your Jack shaft will work. I think for the $10 the 20series is a sure thing. No alignment problem just bolt on and go.
 

Denny

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First off you need to really figure out if you do have a 20 series or not. If I remember correctly the numbers on the secondary are not what series clutch it is but maybe an assembly number. If one side of the shieve is strait then you have a 30 series.
 

chargergeek22

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No its either a 20 series or its the tc 88 or whatever. Its got a blue spring and its facing inboard so i know its not a 30. I have a 3/4" keyed shaft. Thats something else i was wondering. Since my crankshaft is 3/4 i didnt know if i could get a 3/4 driven pulley or not in one of those sets. I think there called tav2? But not sure what the difference is. But i would like to get all the new sprockets and a new driven if i can go that route and save 10$. But you are correct the 20 doesn't stand for series. I believe it stands for the degrees. Thank you guys btw.
 

chargergeek22

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Just to clarify. If i flip the 30 series driven pulley around though wouldn't it be the wrong angles for the belt? Or how would i go about that??
 

panchothedog

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Sounds like you are confused about crank shaft ( what's coming out of the engine ) and Jack shaft ( what your large DRIVEN clutch ) is spinning on now.
Your new predator engine has a 3/4" keyed crank shaft. Just about ALL driver clutches ( the part that bolts onto engine crank shaft ) are going to be 3/4" , so either way that is not a problem. IF your current JACK SHAFT is 3/4" in diameter then it might be hard to find a driven 30 series clutch to fit. If you can find one it will be a separate ordered part and not come with the common $60
torque converters on the internet. Please post a picture of the driven clutch taken looking into the part that the belt rides on. That way we can tell for sure or not of it is a 20 series. FWIW, and not to be a wise guy, IF $10 is that big of a deal that it makes a difference in which clutch system you buy, I think you are going to run out of funds LONG before you finish rebuilding your $75 kart.
 

panchothedog

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No of you flip the 30 series around it sits in correct relationship with the 30 series driver. Wether everything lines up or not is yet to be seen. You need to educate yourself a little bit on how these things work. That is why I said with a new 20series DRIVER it's just bolt on and go. Providing that your current driven clutch actually is a 20series.
 

chargergeek22

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Huh? I'm confused now lol. The crank shaft is the part coming out of the engine correct? And I know that my driven pulley is not the same as what a 30 series driven is because mine is beveled on both sides. And a 30 series is flat on the inside and level on the outside correct? So what I'm asking is if I turned the 30 series driven pulley around and face it inboard then how would it lineup with the driver pulley when i put the belt on is what im wondering. I will get a picture as soon as I get back home and post it. But I'm pretty sure my jackshaft is 3/4 inch with a 3/16th key i need to make sure though.

But it's not even really about the $10 it's more about I get more parts for $10 less and if I end up burning up belts Or something else getting everything A-line then I know the 30 series are more common to find. If it wasn't for my axle I would do away with the Jack shaft and slide my sprocket over. But I'm sure you guys know what kind of axle I'm dealing with and it's actually in really good shape. I mean if you guys think I ought to put the 20 series driver pulley on I mean that's what I'm gonna go ahead and do probably.
 

chargergeek22

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OK this is what I'm asking about see how when it's turned around the beveled side is on the outside. Obviously this isn't how mine is going to be set up with the backing plate and everything. I just found a quick picture online of a 30 series turned around.
 

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panchothedog

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Glad to see you have done a little research. What I have been trying to tell you is that if you put a 30 series driven clutch on your existing Jack shaft it would need to be turned 180 compared to the way your current driven clutch is now sitting. With the spring portion towards the wheel. In the 1st two frames of the pictures you posted ( where you highlighted the angled sheaves ) that orientation is incorrect for the 30series. The BELL or outer side of the DRIVER
must be on the same side as the elongated or spring side of the DRIVEN unit.
on a plate mounted setup these will always be to the outside, or away from the engine. The predator engines have a short crank shaft, so there is no room to turn the driver around. Bolt the 30series driver on in the standard way, then turn the driven unit 180 from how yours is sitting right now and they will work correctly.
 

chargergeek22

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Is one side of the belt flat?
Ok gotcha. Now that makes sense lol. Idk why i didnt think i could flip that one. And i just measured my jack shaft and it is a 3/4" shaft.
In the pic below how do i go about getting it off the shaft? Do i just undo the snap ring and tap it off? Or is a spring gonna jump out on me?

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Also does the crank shaft and jack shaft have to be pretty level? Cause i may need to raise the motor up a little bit to get clearance.
 

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panchothedog

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OK, you do have a 20 series driven as both sides are angled equally. It also looks like it is completely shot. Spring is gone and maybe even frozen up. The points on the outer part should be resting tightly against the plastic buttons or stops. I would think to remove it from the shaft you would just loosen the bolt.
The end of the clutch looks very much the same as a 30 series. I think the end of the jack shaft is threaded and the washer is holding it on. If you were to rebuild the 20 series clutch, then pulling the snap ring can unleash some force.
In your case there might not be a lot of force left in it. Also after you remove the bolt holding it on, it might not slide right off. Be ready for a fight.
 
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