I've got a hemi predator with jetted carb, and it seems the float needle isn't sealing. I haven't seen needle seats, but I have seen needles somewhere online. Now considering I have this problem, should I work on it and try to rejet the carb and see if I can make my cam work a little better, or should I step up to a bored carb? The engine has a billet flywheel and rod, and a black mamba jr cam.
Carb trouble
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Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
Ok your not a newb here. So...
If your float needle is not sealing, why would you try to make the cam work better? What does that mean anyways?
Why would you rejet the carb? That's not the issue.
Stepping up to a bored carb is still not fixing the problem.
Fix the dang float valve.
If your float needle is not sealing, why would you try to make the cam work better? What does that mean anyways?
Why would you rejet the carb? That's not the issue.
Stepping up to a bored carb is still not fixing the problem.
Fix the dang float valve.
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mckutzy
Well-known member
Not that I'm a noob here either...
How does one adjust a float needle on a clone carb???
How does one adjust a float needle on a clone carb???
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
Usually by bending the tab that pushes on the needle.
---------- Post added at 07:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:06 AM ----------
Looks like the float is all plastic. Dunno.
mckutzy
Well-known member
I don't think there is, the needle is spring loaded and self adjusts..
The seats and needle point needs to be clean for proper sealing..
Aparently the petcock bowl traps a bunch of stuff in it, but sometimes it flows over into the main bowl... Thus contaminating the main body again.
The seats and needle point needs to be clean for proper sealing..
Aparently the petcock bowl traps a bunch of stuff in it, but sometimes it flows over into the main bowl... Thus contaminating the main body again.
If I am pulling the carb to fix the float valve, why not reject and see if I can flow a little more fuel for my 6000 rpm cam, which I'm sure I'm not turning 6000 rpm at full throttle. OR, should I pick up a new bored carb which would flow more air and fuel, and wouldn't have a leak.
Now I did pull the carb and blow everything out with compressed air, and it doesn't leak anymore, but I need to have some choke to keep it running. Like, a lot of choke, so something I'm sure is clogged. Now a better question may be, will a stock carb flow enough fuel and air to turn 6000 rpm under load?
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
How do you know the float needle isn't seating?
That usually causes flooding, gas pouring out the overflow vents. And a rich running engine. You also say it won't run with out the choke on. That means you have a lean condition and the choke/enricher is adding more fuel.
Your contradicting your self.
There are tiny tiny holes in the throat of the carb. Are you sure those are clean too?
That usually causes flooding, gas pouring out the overflow vents. And a rich running engine. You also say it won't run with out the choke on. That means you have a lean condition and the choke/enricher is adding more fuel.
Your contradicting your self.
There are tiny tiny holes in the throat of the carb. Are you sure those are clean too?
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
I liked this knock off gx390 carb with my black mamba jr.
https://www.everestpartssupplies.co...stable-carburetor-with-free-gaskets-insulator
and this NR adapter...
http://www.nrracing.com/product-p/nr-cc390b.htm
"Designed to mount GX390 Type Carbs to GX200, 6.5s, and 212 Predators.
2 pc Design can be used on both flat and 15 degree mounts.
Typically requires a 108 Main Jet for std bore Gas GX390 carbs and 110 for Gas Bored Carbs. Methanol carbs will need a 150 to 160 Main or larger."
Adjustable just means you can adjust the idle circuit air/fuel mix.
https://www.everestpartssupplies.co...stable-carburetor-with-free-gaskets-insulator
and this NR adapter...
http://www.nrracing.com/product-p/nr-cc390b.htm
"Designed to mount GX390 Type Carbs to GX200, 6.5s, and 212 Predators.
2 pc Design can be used on both flat and 15 degree mounts.
Typically requires a 108 Main Jet for std bore Gas GX390 carbs and 110 for Gas Bored Carbs. Methanol carbs will need a 150 to 160 Main or larger."
Adjustable just means you can adjust the idle circuit air/fuel mix.
Attachments
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gx390 carb.jpg -
nr adapter.jpg
I'm guessing you didn't read my last post,
so maybe you should before I get all smartass in here.
There are tiny tiny holes in the throat of the carb. Are you sure those are clean too?[/QUOTE]
---------- Post added at 12:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:51 PM ----------
That works well for you? I don't want to make the mistake of too much carb. Thanks for the links, I will look into it.
so maybe you should before I get all smartass in here.
gas leaks out from somewhere underneath the carb. When I take the bowl off and hold the float up, it continues to drip.
No ****.
not if my Jets are clogged.
There are tiny tiny holes in the throat of the carb. Are you sure those are clean too?[/QUOTE]
---------- Post added at 12:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:51 PM ----------
That works well for you? I don't want to make the mistake of too much carb. Thanks for the links, I will look into it.
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
Hey scout, just trying to help here.
If your jets are clogged you have a lean condition. Like I mentioned.
And you know the seats leaking. New needle? Does the old one have a wear ring? Rubber tip hard?
****, join the cult and just throw 99 dollars at it and be done.
I've had my fair share of finicky carbs too.
If your jets are clogged you have a lean condition. Like I mentioned.
And you know the seats leaking. New needle? Does the old one have a wear ring? Rubber tip hard?
****, join the cult and just throw 99 dollars at it and be done.
I've had my fair share of finicky carbs too.
Yeah I know, sometimes its difficult to get things across when the people you are talking to are addressing other points and not really paying attention to what you are saying. yeah I'm thinking the jets are clogged and despite the fuel leak I still have to run a lot of choke.
Last year, which is the last time it ran, it got hard to start and I thought it was ignition. Just a few days ago I took the motor off the kart and clamped it to my bench to mess with the ignition, and thats when I found the gas leak. It also turns out I have spark, so I messed with it a bit and got it to run. In "messing with it", I bypassed the fuel pump since my fuel tank is above the carb. I'm guessing the pump wasn't working and that caused my hard starting.
When it was running, it ran well with the stock cam and jetted carb. Then I swapped in a new cam and springs, and shortened the clutch spring a bit to try to get it to engage at a higher rpm. That, I think, was a failure, but I don't know where my spare spring is to put it back. It runs good, but it doesn't seem like it winds out like it should. Hence, my wondering if I should spring for a bigger carb.
Last year, which is the last time it ran, it got hard to start and I thought it was ignition. Just a few days ago I took the motor off the kart and clamped it to my bench to mess with the ignition, and thats when I found the gas leak. It also turns out I have spark, so I messed with it a bit and got it to run. In "messing with it", I bypassed the fuel pump since my fuel tank is above the carb. I'm guessing the pump wasn't working and that caused my hard starting.
When it was running, it ran well with the stock cam and jetted carb. Then I swapped in a new cam and springs, and shortened the clutch spring a bit to try to get it to engage at a higher rpm. That, I think, was a failure, but I don't know where my spare spring is to put it back. It runs good, but it doesn't seem like it winds out like it should. Hence, my wondering if I should spring for a bigger carb.
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
What do your plugs looks like?
KartFab
Active member
well, might as well get a mikuni vm22 if you are going to get a new carb AMIRITE?!?!
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Well I used it on a minibike. It was doing 55mph just over 7000 rpm and pulled wheelies at launch. I had a weenie pipe exhaust, 32* BTDC ignition timing, 11.1 :1 Static Compression Ratio.... It depends on the gearing. More carb means more RPMs. But if your gearing isn't set up for those RPMs, whats the point.
But I agree with Kartfab... if going to replace the carb, might as well go with something good. I'm going to try Ebay knock off slide carb for my 420cc buggy but have no experience myself. I think Joe messed around with a Mikuni or knock off for a while.
I'm running stock piston/compression and a short little pipe. My drive ratio is 6:1. You're right thought, the intake and exhaust should match. And thinking about that domed piston someone linked to the other day makes me think I'll be spending a was of money here soon.
"Last year, which is the last time it ran, it got hard to start and I thought it was ignition. Just a few days ago I took the motor off the kart and clamped it to my bench to mess with the ignition, and that's when I found the gas leak. It also turns out I have spark..."
It sounds like bad fuel/gunked carb to me from what you're saying. If it has spark, it's a fuel flow problem. Tear down the carb & clean every passage, idle (fine wire once it's out) & main jets, needle valve & seat, carb cleaner inside until everything is open, running wet & looks new, blast with compressed air, then put it all back together. Check inside the the fuel tank for flaking, gum, varnish or rust, check the shut-off valve & flush everything you can before filling with new clean gas.
It sounds like bad fuel/gunked carb to me from what you're saying. If it has spark, it's a fuel flow problem. Tear down the carb & clean every passage, idle (fine wire once it's out) & main jets, needle valve & seat, carb cleaner inside until everything is open, running wet & looks new, blast with compressed air, then put it all back together. Check inside the the fuel tank for flaking, gum, varnish or rust, check the shut-off valve & flush everything you can before filling with new clean gas.
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