Carb/Throttle help

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Undeadride1

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Hey guys, I'm really new to this forum and to the world of go karting. I bought a 8.5HP tecumseh engine, and I'm having a problem figuring out how to connect the throttle to my gas pedal. Are there any carbs I can buy that can use a line instead of this twist directly on the butterfly valve?
 

Undeadride1

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I can't find pictures of the actual engine (it's not at my house, it's at a friends) but I do have the model number: Tecumseh HMSK80 155386U. The only thing that comes up is the stock carb, and I guess what I'm asking is what kind of carb can I put on a snowblower engine? Like I said I'm new to this, so I don't know how interchangeable carbs are.
 

Undeadride1

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I don't know how to connect it to the gas pedal. I just feel like there isn't a lot of room to move the valve, and the pedal would only go like 3/4" between idle and full throttle, if my math is right.
 

Undeadride1

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Like I said, I don't have the engine because it's at a friends, and I need to put the carb back on. But I'll get pics ASAP otherwise.
 

bob58o

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I hope it doesn't look anything like any of these carbs.

Cause it only took me two minutes to google, prt sc, paste into paint, crop, and post here.
 

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Hellion

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All fine and good and above and beyond the call of duty Bob, but we're still assuming a lot about his engine and "carbatrator". Could be different from what photos we can dredge up of stock engines from the almighty interwebz.

True, there's not much movement on any of these small carbs to go from idle to full throttle, just small little swings of the throttle butterfly. Maybe put a small stiff spring on the end of the throttle cable and then attach that spring to the 'throttle' which in this case might be a governor linkage, so's your aggressive right foot moving in an arc at the accelerator pedal doesn't translate to the same movement on the other end, possibly destroying something... the spring will absorb the excess cable movement...


Call it a throttle saver!
 

Bbqjoe

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All fine and good and above and beyond the call of duty Bob, but we're still assuming a lot about his engine and "carbatrator". Could be different from what photos we can dredge up of stock engines from the almighty interwebz.

True, there's not much movement on any of these small carbs to go from idle to full throttle, just small little swings of the throttle butterfly. Maybe put a small stiff spring on the end of the throttle cable and then attach that spring to the 'throttle' which in this case might be a governor linkage, so's your aggressive right foot moving in an arc at the accelerator pedal doesn't translate to the same movement on the other end, possibly destroying something... the spring will absorb the excess cable movement...


Call it a throttle saver!

I'm not 100% sure, but I'll bet there's an app for this. :D
 

anickode

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On a stock engine, the throttle cable connects to the throttle arm, not directly to the butterfly.

Pedal pulls cable
Cable pulls throttle arm
Throttle arm pulls governor arm via spring linkage
Governor arm controls throttle butterfly via solid linkage.

That's why you have such a small range of motion. The butterfly is not where you hook on unless you've removed the governor.

Range of motion on a direct throttle can be corrected at the pedal end by relocating the connection point for the cable closer to the pivot point of the pedal, or at the carburetor end by adding an extension arm to the butterfly and hooking to the extension. Simple mechanics. Long lever, short lever.
 

Undeadride1

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That makes sense anickode, thanks for that. And it's pretty much the exact same as the video that bob58o sent. I didn't think about what anickode said, about putting the connection closer to the pivot point, so I'll work on some ideas and math around that.
 

anickode

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That makes sense anickode, thanks for that. And it's pretty much the exact same as the video that bob58o sent. I didn't think about what anickode said, about putting the connection closer to the pivot point, so I'll work on some ideas and math around that.

If you're doing a direct throttle setup, you really should crack open the engine and remove the governor altogether. Last thing you want is for the flyweight mechanism to come apart inside your crankcase at 6000 rpm.
 

Undeadride1

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If you're doing a direct throttle setup, you really should crack open the engine and remove the governor altogether. Last thing you want is for the flyweight mechanism to come apart inside your crankcase at 6000 rpm.

sounds like a good idea, I'll do that. Thanks for the help guys
 
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