Can someone help me get this gokart on the go.

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JLYoak

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I bought a gokart for 50 bucks, and was told all the parts were there accept the motor. Then i bought me a motor from Harbor freight a 6.5 hp. I'v benn trying to put it together but ran into some problems. It seems that the crank shaft needs to be about 1 1/2 in. longer. The clutch only goes on agout a 1/2 of in. and needs to go on about 2in. Also the rear small gear fits up tight against the bearing, and the shaft doesn't come all the way thru the second bearing. Can some one tell me if the clutch looks complete also.What can i do to fix my problems? Please help me get this thing moving. I'v wanted a gokart since i was a kid and now i finaly got one at the age of 35 and cant wait to get it going. You can see all the pics on my profile under somthing wrong. Thanks, Jeff
P.S. does anyone know what type it is?
 

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5trucks

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I bought a gokart for 50 bucks, and was told all the parts were there accept the motor. Then i bought me a motor from Harbor freight a 6.5 hp. I'v benn trying to put it together but ran into some problems. It seems that the crank shaft needs to be about 1 1/2 in. longer. The clutch only goes on agout a 1/2 of in. and needs to go on about 2in. Also the rear small gear fits up tight against the bearing, and the shaft doesn't come all the way thru the second bearing. Can some one tell me if the clutch looks complete also.What can i do to fix my problems? Please help me get this thing moving. I'v wanted a gokart since i was a kid and now i finaly got one at the age of 35 and cant wait to get it going. You can see all the pics on my profile under somthing wrong. Thanks, Jeff
P.S. does anyone know what type it is?

Looks like the clutch is hitting the bracket mounted to the motor. What is it exactly? The jack shaft mount? Hard to tell in picture. Comet 30-40 series clutches usually are only keyed to about halfway through the driver. Does the driver fit snug on the shaft or is it wobbly?
 

JLYoak

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Yes it is the jack shaft. If you look at the pics you can see it dont go thru all the way is somthing wrong?The drive feels pretty snug. Do i just get a longer bolt to fit it right?
 

Blazkowiez

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The clutch is complete but needs cleaning, check my post regarding cleaning clutches.

The drive clutch can be held on with as little as 1/4" of shaft, the hub it has on the clutch is a solid piece, you'll want a long 5/16" fine thread bolt, lock washer, and large flat washer to securely place this on the engine.

As the driven clutch goes, something looks strange, the clutches do not line up, the spacer used looks almost as though it goes on a 3/4" shaft and not 5/8" like your jackshaft is. Your sprockets must line up as well as the back plates on both clutches, driven and drive.

Ken-Bar karts are fantastic quality, funny enough, we have the performance version of this kart in our side building with dual disk brakes, differential, series 40 torque converter, and an 11hp I/C electric start Briggs.

I'll be happy to answer any more questions you might have, your jackshaft does not look sheered, it must be long enough to work, but something has been altered on spacing to not allow its ability to lock past the bearing,
 

JLYoak

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I want to thank you for helping me try to get this thing going. I was looking at the clutch part and found some numbers on it. I wasn't sure if this would help you tell me what is wrong with all my parts. I'm not sure if they are mist matched or not. I also took a pic of the size of the rear shaft. Maybe the reason it's not long enough is because its not the write one? If so do i need to bye a new one. Finally do you think this is this worth putting money into for stock parts if need be, I am 235 lbs. and I am looking for somthing to pull me around pretty good. So if I have to put alot of money into it (for a new clutch and such) I would I be further ahead to get a bigger motor and a bigger clutch. Thank you for your time, Jeff
 

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Blazkowiez

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I highly doubt that the shaft is the wrong size given it does not look sheared, I'm guessing this is a spacing issue dude. Obviously you are able to buy a new shaft and locking collars but thats all your decision. No need to buy new clutches, a shaft is much cheaper.
 

T-man

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I noticed something in that second pic. shouldn't the little black nylon/plastick nubs be resting at the peaks of the outside piece of cast aluminum on the driven .... I just read what I just wrote and I hope it makes sence.
 

Blazkowiez

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It did make sense T-Man, you're right, his driven clutch is definitely either put together incorrectly by a previous owner, either way is is not correct, the lobes of the outer section of the driven clutch should rest against the cam buttons. I can not tell from the pictures if it jumped the buttons. It should in all ways be a spring loaded assembly.
 

Blazkowiez

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JL, the driven clutch is a spring loaded assembly where everything sits flush against each other. The driven clutch's backplate sits in place while the outer plate which is angled at 16 degrees moves to change the distance that the belt rides against the clutch. The cam buttons which are the little black buttons pressed into that moving hub wear slightly each time you ride the kart, eventually the plate will snap straight over them breaking the buttons and unwind itself. Often times people attempt to repair the clutch and pull the snap ring which pulls it apart, at any rate, your clutch is not in awesome shape. It needs to be fixed.

 

Blazkowiez

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Remove the driven clutch from the jack-shaft. Take pictures of this and we'll try and help you. I'll do my best to walk you through rebuilding that driven. Its kinda hard for me to look at that and not just say "man alive, all you need to do is pop it back, wind it 3 turns, and load the buttons" We do this so often it is like second nature.

Don't worry, we'll get this sorted out.
 
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