Can I save these threads?

[devino246]

I use a brass hammer when ever Im pounding on something thats easily marred.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-lb-brass-hammer-with-hickory-wood-handle-42000.html

 

[r97]

a while back i got a steering shaft parts kit, they gave me a course thread nut, but the shaft had a fine thread, I't got screwed up pretty quickly.

I went out and bought a fine thread 5/8" nut. I then cut the nut in half on a vice with a hack saw (no abrasive blades a not to ruin the threads). then I poured a bunch of oil on the damaged threads. I put both halves on either side of the threaded shaft BEHIND the damaged threads. then I threw a wrench over both halves, held then together so they would stay in the wrench, and just worked them over the damaged portion. worked great!

never heard of thread files, i'll have to remember those.

 

[devino246]

a while back i got a steering shaft parts kit, they gave me a course thread nut, but the shaft had a fine thread, I't got screwed up pretty quickly.

I went out and bought a fine thread 5/8" nut. I then cut the nut in half on a vice with a hack saw (no abrasive blades a not to ruin the threads). then I poured a bunch of oil on the damaged threads. I put both halves on either side of the threaded shaft BEHIND the damaged threads. then I threw a wrench over both halves, held then together so they would stay in the wrench, and just worked them over the damaged portion. worked great!

never heard of thread files, i'll have to remember those.

I had totally forgotten about this method. Ill have to remember it...

 

[Bluethunder3320]

thats a great idea!!!!!

 

[tinkerman73]

Did the post with the die go un noticed? Nothing better around the house then a tap and die set! Really. Come Sunday evening and you have to take a crusty rusty bolt out and reuse, or beat the piss out of a threaded rod, what have you. The best savior is a tap and die set! Heck, break a bolt off, drill it out and retap it a size larger(providing you have a size larger bolt! LOL) and your good to go! You can usually find used sets around cheap! Heck, my set had a broken die in it and I got it for $5.00. The replacement die was cheap too!

 

[bighead]

Did the post with the die go un noticed? Nothing better around the house then a tap and die set! Really. Come Sunday evening and you have to take a crusty rusty bolt out and reuse, or beat the piss out of a threaded rod, what have you. The best savior is a tap and die set! Heck, break a bolt off, drill it out and retap it a size larger(providing you have a size larger bolt! LOL) and your good to go! You can usually find used sets around cheap! Heck, my set had a broken die in it and I got it for $5.00. The replacement die was cheap too!

How you going to start it? I would think it would be hard to get it started right with that big flat spot on the ends of the treads. But if I had that size you bet I would be trying.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Did the post with the die go un noticed?

Which is lovely if you actually have one. Who amongst us just happens to have dies the size of that axle thread? What is that, 3/4" NC 10?

 

[tinkerman73]

First, that axle appears to be about 2 1/4" big on my screen. I am sure in real life, it is smaller then that. LOL. One thing to remember with dies, they are flared open on the starting edge, a little larger then the actual rod(axle) size. Then they taper down to the sized needed to clean the rod(axle) and properly thread it. I have had rods flared on the end before and used the die with no problem. If its "huge", then no. But personally to me, that bur does not really look that big. Not to me anyways!

 

[fowler]

it would be a 3/4 thread as minimum as that is rifing on a 1 inch axle i would assume

if u could start the die from the other end on the thread then yes but trying to run over that big lump and the posible flared end then no

u would have to file down the lumps and humps and get it looking ok then run a die over it to finish off

 

[tinkerman73]

erhaps your dies and my dies are different? Mine is flared on the starting side larger then the rod would be and tapers down to the size of the rod. About that point is where the thread cutters start and taper in further. So at least with mine, I doubt I would have any issues. But then again, my set appears to be a old set and may not be the norm for todays "cut"(ROTFLMBO). I will admit that the replacement die I bought is not the same! In any case, this person does not have a die, so it will need to be slowly done with a file or small dremel bit. I would agree with others, do NOT use a grinder! I have done that and took off too much!

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Yes, they are always "flared". But again I ask, who amongst us has a 3/4-10 die? I don't, and I've got a fair collection including a couple NPT and several metrics.

Regarding the grinder comments- For years I was cutting threaded rod (some of you call it "allthread") with an angle grinder, in realtion to my job. Of course, it buggers up the threads. I learned a neat trick, though. If only the last thread or two is fouled up, you do not need to hand cut the threads, and you do not need to chase them with a die. All you do is use the grinder to gently (don't overdo it) bevel the end around the circumference of the bolt- essentially eliminating the bad thread and creating a tapered edge, and the nut will spin right on. This, of course, depends on you NOT needing the last couple threads for clamping power. Ideally, you wouldn't anyway.

One other point- with the "flare" of a die, the aggressive cutting power, and a bad starting thread, it's possible to bugger the threads up even worse. If the die starts wrong, it finishes wrong. Once it's got a good "bite" it will not "adjust" to meet the existing threads.

 

[Rustydog2010]

Regarding the grinder comments- For years I was cutting threaded rod (some of you call it "allthread") with an angle grinder, in realtion to my job. Of course, it buggers up the threads. I learned a neat trick, though. If only the last thread or two is fouled up, you do not need to hand cut the threads, and you do not need to chase them with a die. All you do is use the grinder to gently (don't overdo it) bevel the end around the circumference of the bolt- essentially eliminating the bad thread and creating a tapered edge, and the nut will spin right on. This, of course, depends on you NOT needing the last couple threads for clamping power. Ideally, you wouldn't anyway.

I thought that would be common knowledge? Even cutting it with a hacksaw I bet you wont be able to start the nut straight away. You will still have to clean up the threads.

With something like Daves case I would attack it with a normal file first then get a die and try it. If not out comes the thread file.

 

[sexyvicta]

hence why i said: THREAD FILE.

you would need to clean it up to get die started.

if you cleaned that particular thread with a thread file, you wouldn't even need the die.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

I still want to know who here actually has a 3/4-10 die. Normal tap and die sets do not go that large. You would have to buy it separately for a specific purpose.

So... my question still stands.

 

[devino246]

I still want to know who here actually has a 3/4-10 die. Normal tap and die sets do not go that large. You would have to buy it separately for a specific purpose.

So... my question still stands.

I do, for this exact reason too I smashed the he// of of my axle when I first installed it so I ground the mushroomed metal off and ran the die over. i bought it individually at a local hardware store, BTW.

 

[Rustydog2010]

I still want to know who here actually has a 3/4-10 die. Normal tap and die sets do not go that large. You would have to buy it separately for a specific purpose.

So... my question still stands.

Yes, we do.

 

[fowler]

I still want to know who here actually has a 3/4-10 die. Normal tap and die sets do not go that large. You would have to buy it separately for a specific purpose.

So... my question still stands.

it depends how elaborate your set is

ours is from 3/8 to 1