There are several things wrong with this steering setup. Some of them will not be noticed on an offroad kart like this. As mentioned already, You want the max turn of the steering shaft closely matched the max turn angle of your knuckles. How long the tab is that connects the inner tie rod ends to the steering shaft is what makes this adjustment. Having too long of a distance here will greatly increase steering effort because of leverage. Having too short of a distance will decrease the steering at the wheels, meaning you will not be able to turn as sharp.
The main thing you are feeling right now is- You have reverse ackermann.
There are 2 ways to correct the ackermann on this setup. First, try unbolting the steering arms and tie rods and see if there is room for them to fit on opposite sides from where they are now (they would be pointing out instead of in, which puts them inside the rim a little). If that works. Bolt them on with some locktite and make new tie rods to match the new length. If they do not fit, send me a PM and I will come back to this thread and give another solution. (I do not come on here very often
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Just to qualify my advise a little, I grafted a Yamaha blaster 4 wheeler front end onto a go kart and had to custom make the steering for it. The steering arms were bolt on just like yours. My steering was originally behind the knuckles, which would have made the tie rods connect to the steering shaft right where my legs needed to be in order to drive the kart. I changed the steering from behind the knuckles to in front and designed my own steering setup. Now it drives and handles amazing.
To see pictures of the steering setup I made for the Blaster suspension, Go to posts 72 & 73 of this link.
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=32848&page=4