Buying a Predator, advice?

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BrownStainRacing

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I jumped ahead of my self, you need to torq head bolts starting at 6 lbs, in a criss cross pattern, then 12, then 17lb final. Then adjust valves, went outside and forgot where I was. You need to practice anyway, 😆 888

After you have adjusted valve lash, and checked them 3 or 4 times, put the valve cover back on. Do not over tighten the valve cover, it will break the gasket.

Turn engine around so you can get to the flywheel and coil.

You gonna need a way to lock the crankshaft down here. I've use the inside of a clutch hub and big pipe wrench. Now I use flat back half of a driver from a old t/c with holes drilled so I can bolt it to the side cover. But you really need to figure out a way to lock it down.

Make sure plastic fan and starter cup are in the correct spot, they line up to holes in the flywheel. Torq flywheel to spec, idk what a stock flywheel torq spec is, dont use them.
 

BaconBitRacing

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I jumped ahead of my self, you need to torq head bolts starting at 6 lbs, in a criss cross pattern, then 12, then 17lb final. Then adjust valves, went outside and forgot where I was. You need to practice anyway, 😆 888

After you have adjusted valve lash, and checked them 3 or 4 times, put the valve cover back on. Do not over tighten the valve cover, it will break the gasket.

Turn engine around so you can get to the flywheel and coil.

You gonna need a way to lock the crankshaft down here. I've use the inside of a clutch hub and big pipe wrench. Now I use flat back half of a driver from a old t/c with holes drilled so I can bolt it to the side cover. But you really need to figure out a way to lock it down.

Make sure plastic fan and starter cup are in the correct spot, they line up to holes in the flywheel. Torq flywheel to spec, idk what a stock flywheel torq spec is, dont use them.
I haven’t started anything yet, jokes on you! :lolgoku:
Right now I’m playing with my new torque wrench. I read some reviews saying the click is soft, but I can feel it and hear it easy. Granted I don’t have an air compressor or power tools going, just some music.
 

BrownStainRacing

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After flywheel torqued to spec, adjust coil air gap to .035" for a stock flywheel

I find it easier to double 2 together that equals .035". Make 2 of these that equal .035" and place 1 under each leg of the coil. Put magnet away from coil so it don't steal your feeler gauges.
 

BrownStainRacing

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After flywheel torq and coil air gap set, make sure you gov spring is in that hole I showed @joshw0000 , you can find it yourself. Thats been a day or so ago. 😃 😀 😄 😁

Put it back together and make sure throttle is working right.

After a good break in, we can open that main jet a lil.

BTW, I knew you wasn't following with me, theres no way you got that crap outta way that fast, 😆 🤣 😂 😅 😜 🤪 😆
 

LtDansNewLegs

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I’m picking up a 212 tomorrow (on sale for $100:wai:) anything to look for specifically? I’m going to try and get a non-hemi 60730 model, is there anything else I should look for? Thanks as always.
Be careful. They changed the hemi version to the same ID number as the non hemi AKA They’re categorized as the same model. Just look at the valve cover on the box. I checked in person and verified that a 60730 is now both a hemi and non hemi. Again, the only way you can tell (no labeling on the box) is by looking at the box picture of the valve cover
 

BaconBitRacing

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Be careful. They changed the hemi version to the same ID number as the non hemi AKA They’re categorized as the same model. Just look at the valve cover on the box. I checked in person and verified that a 60730 is now both a hemi and non hemi. Again, the only way you can tell (no labeling on the box) is by looking at the box picture of the valve cover
I ended up with a Hemi, the didn’t have any flat tops and I wasn’t walking out empty handed.
 

joshw0000

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Hey @BrownStainRacing, do you reuse gaskets? I’ve heard conflicting opinions. I got me a torque wrench and feeler gauge set, just waiting on one more thing and the break-in will start! :banana:
Not a Pittsburgh torque wrench, right? If so, you have a breaker bar, not a torque wrench. I own all 3 and not one will click anywhere near the correct lbs/ft.
 

jeff bob

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i have a 301cc predator and putting it into a odessy bushmaster it works minty
 

LtDansNewLegs

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I haven’t started anything yet, jokes on you! :lolgoku:
Right now I’m playing with my new torque wrench. I read some reviews saying the click is soft, but I can feel it and hear it easy. Granted I don’t have an air compressor or power tools going, just some music.
I’ve bought two torque wrenches from HF and both did not click and I made sure it was dead silent. Returned both of those pieces of trash. Bought this from Amazon and works like a charm. A little more expensive but will do the job right and last forever (hopefully) EPAuto 3/8-Inch Drive Click... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZVQVSY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
EDIT: Sounds like I’m late to the party and you already got one. Smart man for not buying the HF one.
 

BaconBitRacing

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I’ve bought two torque wrenches from HF and both did not click and I made sure it was dead silent. Returned both of those pieces of trash. Bought this from Amazon and works like a charm. A little more expensive but will do the job right and last forever (hopefully) EPAuto 3/8-Inch Drive Click... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZVQVSY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
EDIT: Sounds like I’m late to the party and you already got one. Smart man for not buying the HF one.
I got a different one, it’s yellow. I was looking for 1/4 drive so I liked this one. I’ll probably pick up a 3/8 drive ft/lb wrench soon, right now i have an old dial 1/2 drive ft/lb wrench.
 

BaconBitRacing

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do yall how to bypass the governor on the predators?
I suggest you start a thread for this, you'll get more responses. But, I'll elaborate. 1ST things first my main rule (and the rule of most members) is safety 1ST and foremost. That means billet flywheel. If you have a non Hemi you can use Tillitson cast aluminum flywheels. Next is a billet rod for your block to survive. Brownstain I IMO the predator expert (he's helping with mine) but others like @panchothedog, @pearl111 and others have just as much experience. Brownstain normally can respond quick, it's kinda like texting your friend. I also suggest taking any all advice from them with some YouTube videos so you can see how it goes. If you want some more beans without big, expensive internal mods then you can adjust the governor for a bit more RPMs.
 

joshw0000

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I’ve bought two torque wrenches from HF and both did not click and I made sure it was dead silent. Returned both of those pieces of trash. Bought this from Amazon and works like a charm. A little more expensive but will do the job right and last forever (hopefully) EPAuto 3/8-Inch Drive Click... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZVQVSY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
EDIT: Sounds like I’m late to the party and you already got one. Smart man for not buying the HF one.
I got a different one, it’s yellow. I was looking for 1/4 drive so I liked this one. I’ll probably pick up a 3/8 drive ft/lb wrench soon, right now i have an old dial 1/2 drive ft/lb wrench.

I have a digital adapter now - https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-25-250-ft-lb-digital-torque-adapter-58706.html. It converts my Pittsburgh 1/2" breaker bar (or any wrench) to a torque wrench. I need to get one for inch pounds.
 

LtDansNewLegs

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I suggest you start a thread for this, you'll get more responses. But, I'll elaborate. 1ST things first my main rule (and the rule of most members) is safety 1ST and foremost. That means billet flywheel. If you have a non Hemi you can use Tillitson cast aluminum flywheels. Next is a billet rod for your block to survive. Brownstain I IMO the predator expert (he's helping with mine) but others like @panchothedog, @pearl111 and others have just as much experience. Brownstain normally can respond quick, it's kinda like texting your friend. I also suggest taking any all advice from them with some YouTube videos so you can see how it goes. If you want some more beans without big, expensive internal mods then you can adjust the governor for a bit more RPMs.
I agree with Bacon. Removing the governor is pretty simple vs learning all the clearances, so a YouTube video on how to do it will definitely suffice. One recommendation while you’re in there, is to remove the oil sensor. As long as you’re smart about checking and changing your oil, that sensor will only do more harm than good. Once you remove it, I believe a 3/8 bolt will fit to take its place and then just use a nut to torque it in place. Once you remove the governor, use a 1/4 bolt and nut to fill the hole that the governor arm was in. Then, you’re all set!
 

BrownStainRacing

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@BaconBitRacing
Here's a 212cc small block that makes big block power!!!! Check out the description.

I can't buy the parts at this price, not counting the machine work that's involved.

This will make your sticker peck up, 😆 🤣 😂 😹 😆 🤣 😂 😹

I think @joshw0000 needs to get 1 for his self......NOT THE KIDS!!!! 😆 🤣 😂

 

BaconBitRacing

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@BaconBitRacing
Here's a 212cc small block that makes big block power!!!! Check out the description.

I can't buy the parts at this price, not counting the machine work that's involved.

This will make your sticker peck up, 😆 🤣 😂 😹 😆 🤣 😂 😹

I think @joshw0000 needs to get 1 for his self......NOT THE KIDS!!!! 😆 🤣 😂

If I didn't need a welder, a tractor, etc...
 
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